What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Manny's 83 K10 (INDEX)(56K) Manny answers his critics and FALSE ACCUSATIONS

Status
Not open for further replies.
Here you go Manny:

View attachment 41413

I just realized you have the 18V drill and I have the 14.4V but not that much of a difference... :o
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hey manny, i read in the begginning of your thread that your dd is a 06 GT...sounds like we got similar tastes in vehicles lol. I got a 76 k10 on 38 TSLs, and my new project is my 87 Blazer, and then my 06 GT for speed...nice to know there are people on here that like to go fast, and offroad
 
LOL and ive been reading every one of them. Damn i waste a lot of time.

Off to the coffee shop to actually get stuff done and get away from my computer.....
 
MuddinManny said:
Yup! 2006 Ford Mustang GT, auto, fully loaded, Windveil Blue. Regrettably, military service has trashed her quite a bit. I'm going to have to have a professional detail her. I'm trying to use the rig for military service, but with her down, it's kinda tough. Also, it takes a while for my 383 to warm up and sometimes I don't have that time available. I've never seen an engine not like to run cold like this one, but it could be Holley related. I can't wait to get the MD 650 on there.

I have had my stang up to 140. Wow!

Manny

Hey, you're right outside SA. We need to hook up and tear the MUD up. Are you planning on going to Shiloh? Lemme know.
Click to expand...

140 thats it?? lol...I got a few lil mods on mine...hence 152 new top speed lol. I want to go to shiloh, but currently the blazer is stock, and the k10 needs new power steering pump, steering box, new water pump, new battery (brand new one in it, wont keep a charge...maybe something else) Oh and when im home in my parents house im about 35 miles east of temple
 
I had the same cold starting problem with my 383. I was also running rich on the primary circuit. It starts pretty good now. I leaned out the primary jets and set the choke just right, but now it runs pretty good. I will be replacing the carb setup this summer with TPI.
 
Good luck with that. And if your frustrations take you that way, I hope to see pics of the demolition. :)
 
obviously a built 383 is going to bog a bunch when cold. If you wanted stock drivability there is always a stock motor. The motor in my camaro takes 10 minutes of running on jackstands in gear at idle before I can make a pass in the car. As for your holley issues, you can feel free to PM me, but honestly for that truck I never would have put a VS carb on there and gone straight for the double pumper lineup. You can always adjust the choke a bit, but if it's over 55-60 outside then it really isn't needed. The motor will like a richer jetting until warmed up and that's just the nature of the beast, what issues are you having with it and I'll help you out. Been tuning them on race cars for years and could point you in the right direction. Unfortunately a vacuum secondary is not as tuneable as perhaps a holley HP or a proform carb
 
Manny you might reconsider your CB Antenna monting your truck is already tall ........ 2 words POWER LINES :eek1: ask me how I know.
And magnet mounts scratch the sh!t out of the top of your cab get a pair of Wison 2000's and mount them on the bed behind the cab or a Single Wilson 5000 in the Center of the bed........ a K40 is a good antenna as well
I have the Same Radio in 3 of my trucks and they've all been "tweaked and peaked"
 
The yellow truck in my Avatar had a 60" mag mount on the roof and snagged a power lines In an alley behind the local Napa it Vaporized my Antenna and fried my radio and Coax

As for tweaking the radio check around the local Truck stops and ask around to see who works on CB's any good cb shop can Turn your radio up
The downside to our radios is that the "soundtracker" actually hinders performance when you go to "turn them up"...... with that being said there still excellant radios

My Next Radio will probaly be a galaxy with side bands
 
MuddinManny said:
First, I'd like to thank you for your willingness to step up and help me out. This has been a very frustrating ordeal. Currently my 750, which is a single pumper, and I believe mechanical secondaries, is running a hare rich and the choke is a bit off. When cold, the truck will stay at 1600 RPM's. The choke never kicks down. The carb idle gets stuck between 750 and 1000 and is never consistant. When warm she's running a bit rich still so if the idle is around 1000 it will diesel when turned off. If the idle is at 750 she shuts right down. The choke is tempermental. Sometimes she engages. Sometimes she won't. Power is constantly to it when the ignition is on. So I don't know what gives. Tuning doesn't seem to be far off.

If I cannot get this carb to work, I'm changing over to a BG Mighty Demon 650. I have heard that these carbs are excellent and far outrun Holley's. I need to do something because I've spent too much money on this engine for it not to be running properly.

Again thank you for your post. I look forward to your assistance.

Manny
Click to expand...

Manny,
if it has a black housing on the side of the carb to open the secondaries then it's not a mechanical secondaries. Second, the BG carbs have gone WAY down in quality control in the recent 12-16 months. I have pulled brand new ones apart and found aluminum/metal shavings in the idle circuits, etc. A 383 will want a 750 carb over a 650 for best performance. All the issues you are talking about point to an ignition timing related issue not a carb issue. The inconsistent idle can be due to too weak mechanical advance springs in the distributor which would cause timing to be tempermental which will cause the idle to jump around. Choke should reset itself after depressing the gas pedal once before firing up the engine, make sure this is the case. As for 1600 rpm at cold choke, that is fine, but again in warmer temperatures probably not needed. Each time you "kick" the pedal every now and then the idle rpm should drop as the cold start lever kicks down a tab at a time until the choke is fully off. If you have more issues feel free to ask, I'm sure I'll have tons of dumb dana 60 questions lined up for you, since if it isn't a 9" aftermarket rear end in a race car I don't know what i'm doing. For now, I would keep your carb and get help tuning from someone who knows what they're doing....which is far and few between these days. Don't buy a BG anything until their quality comes back up, friends on the racing boards have had the same experiences as me with shavings recently in their shops as well. If you need to call my cell if over the internet doesn't help I'll give it out as well if needed. Besides it's snowing up here and I have cabin fever still. :haha:
 
also dual antennas need to be at least 8 feet apart for best reception, so I wouldn't recommend them for a pickup truck. The roof mount will be fine on your truck, I can't imagine you having the CB turned on all the time in day to day driving and if it hits a power line 35-50 feet in the air I want pics. Power lines in IL have to be a certain number of feet off the ground, maybe that wasn't up to code. Peaked and tuned will turn output up to 30-40 watts and can clean up the static a bit as well. We have a great shop in Indiana that you could ship your CB to for a good price but I'm sure someone down there at a truck stop could point you in the right direction
 
Very cool Manny. I have really enjoyed watching your build and hope that soon ill be able to do almost the same thing with my K5. Though i doubt it will be done as nicely as your has.

Now get some MUD on that sucker!!
 
best bet for battery drain is to hook an ampmeter in line with the 12V+ cable off the battery and pull fuses on at a time until the amp draw drops considerably then you know the open circuit. Do NOT have dome lights on or anything else electrical powered up or you can exceed the 10 amp fuse on most multimeters and blow it out.
 
you can tape over the switch in the door on the drivers side, or shove something in between the door and that switch to keep it shut. It doesn't take much force at all to close that switch.
 
From the description, I would guess that it was a supply line to a building. Those are often lower than the transmission lines on the main poles. I've seen supply lines lower than 15 feet.
 
I would run any CB straight to the battery . Just like an amatuer radio .

Cleaner power .

As for the Wilson magnet mount . I ended up hating the coax , and just this Friday installed the permanent roof mount . The whip is flexible enough I ain't worried about hitting trees wheeling .
 
As for CB / battery drain. Where did you hook up the positive side, or power side, of the radio. Negative side would be secondary to a battery drain. Sounds to me you've hooked up the CB to non-ignition power. The negative or ground side would only come into play if it was a bad, faulty, or intermitent connection. Let say you are hooked directly to the battery. If the radio is left on it drains the battery. If the negative, or ground, was a bad connection then it could affect the drain simply by the bad connection.

Think of DC power like water. The positive is the inlet and the negative is the outlet. Connection directly to the battery could leave the CB as always on and a drain. An ignition curcuit is shut off when you pull the key. This is a simplistic definition but helps in tracking down power problems. Electronics like radios & CBs often have a switched power lead and a direct lead. If they are hooked up wrong it could lead to a power drain.

So trace out your lines again and check your connections:D
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom