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Manny's 83 K10 (INDEX)(56K) Manny answers his critics and FALSE ACCUSATIONS

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Yep, Manny, sounds to me like you got the power to that CB off a non ignition port. In other words, its always on, with the ignition on or off. If that isn`t the case, then I would change the ground location for sure.
 
havent read many of these posts.. but powerlines CAN and ARE a problem. Our stock Z71 with wilson 1000 has snagged a couple(mostly phonelines) but thankfully no problems. We now run with the antenna off unless were on trips or trails. On my road there are big FAT powerlines that can be reached by hand. Im in Chesapeake, Virginia, and the city and utilities people are all LAZY BASTARDS. I hope i never find any low enough to touch the K5.. Id like a 102' whip antenna for my jimmy but then i wouldnt be able to enter my driveway. The wilson 1000 is about 10-12 inches away from the powerline in my driveway, and about a foot from the main one on my road.
 
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Manny, there is a CB shop just north of Temple. Hes on the southbound side of IH 35 between exit 305 and 306 (I believe).
 
Don't go crazy trying to find a power drain. Aren't those brand new batteries? If so, new batteries typically aren't fully charged and can be drained pretty easily. You haven't been able to drive around a charge them up good, so they may just need to be put on a charger for a while.

Even if there is a drain, it should not have been able to kill both batteries, due to your battery isolation setup. Can you switch to the 2nd battery and start the engine? (Another thought... Is the relay in that system switching OFF when the key is off? If not, it can kill the battery that it's connected to, as that big relay draws a decent amount of current when activated.)
 
  1. MuddinManny said:
    If the radio caused a drain through the fuse box being "hot" all the time, isn't going to the battery the same thing?
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The radio has a power switch , OFF is OFF . If not , replace the radio . Some radios have extra features and need a switched power for certain features . Those radios are not desirable , or neccessary .

Your radio will make best power hooked up to battery directly . Especially if anyone illegally tweaks the radio for more output .
 
MuddinManny said:
Thanks guys! I'm going to test light the fuse panel. I put the positive lead directly into an open accy slot like the instruction said. I think that it may be an issue. I will relocate the ground also. I will either locate the positive to a slot that is "off" when the key isn't in, or go directly to the "+" terminal. My question though is this. If the radio caused a drain through the fuse box being "hot" all the time, isn't going to the battery the same thing?

Manny
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Yep, but no one is telling you to go straight to the battery. Same problem. Make sure you are hooked to a switched power. If you are having a hard time finding one, you could hook up a relay at the back of your stereo, that is a known source of a ign switched power wire.
 
Thats an extra feature . I was being general there as a reply for anyone reading it .

So your radio is constant 12v , and a switched 12v for weather .

Well you can run the 12v constant to battery , the ground to battery , and the 12v switched to your fuse box . The radio IS grounded by mounting it to something metal , but I would run it to the battery anyway .

Going to the battery has an added benefit of killing some ignition noise too , or at least letting the Noise Blanker work better .
 
If you hook it to the switched stereo wire, it would be on/off withe ign. That is how you want it.

Now when i said hook it to the switched stereo wire, i mentioned using a relay. I dont' use a CB, and have no idea how much power it draws or how clean of a signal you need. If it draws signifcant power, you will want to hook up a relay that is directly to the battery and switched with the switched wire. This will allow you to have power from teh battery that is only on with the ign.

That being said, i just mentioned the stereo wire as it is a known source of switched ign power.
I don't really reccomend that source, you should be able to find the switched ign line at the fusebox with no trouble if you have a test light.

Anyways, good luck getting it worked out!
 
Now, you said that both batteries are drained? Doesn't the dual battery kit isolate the second battery under normal operation? If the radio wasn't "on" ie. receiving or transmitting, then it is not a significant current drain. I think i would test for where the current drain is at before you go trying to connect the CB to a different location. if you are worried about blowing the fuse on your multimeter measuring current, you can always try a good test light first. Just disconnect one of the leads at the battery and connect the light between the cable and the battery post. If the light glows real bright and/or the bulb goes out, then you have a significant current drain. As for testing this without the dome light (or underhood light) on, just remove the bulb in the underhood light if you have one, and shut the door after removing a fuse, before you connect the light or meter in series.

If I just confused you with my rambling explaination, ignore me.
 
I have had many CB's and I have always hooked them directly to the battery. I have a single yellow top and my blazer might set for two weeks at a time and fires up every time. I have three different kings of radios all hooked straight to the battery. Sound like a problem with your dual battery setup or some other source draining the batterys. thats my 2 cents. BTW Manny awsome build Those alum. 16.5's look great against that blue paint!!!
 
I can put you a elevator in your rig Manny. You would be supprised the places we put em. 17's even better, bigger is always better. I love everything you have used in this build. I wouln't change one thing exept for maybe dual t-cases or a Klune-V!!!!!!!!!!! But anyhoo its awsome never the less!!!!!
 
Glad you are on the path to figuring this out. Just my 0.02, at the price of alternators, i wouldn't trust a test. I've heard wierd things about testing on here (i think), and unless you have some crazy alternator, a brand new one wouldn't be that expensive. If i remember correctly, mine was like $80?

Either way, i know you would rather not keep spending money.....but its probably worth just doing it right once.

I'm getting anxious to see this thing done! Hurry up and get it dirty!

Oh, and don't get offended if i don't check everyday for a few days....i think im gonna let my renewal lapse after spending money on my welder....gotta recoup some funds somewhere to renew! Keep up the good work, and you knwo i'll catch up when im back!
 
grab a test light, trun the ign to on. start poking **** till it lights up. turn off the key, when you find one that turns off tap into that wire for hte pos on the cb...thats what i did.
 
if you need a new alternator,it would be wise to install a higher output one to power everything and to keep both batteries charged.
 
don't assume your batteries aren't part of the problem. I went through two redtops in my VW GTI before I acknowledged maybe the batteries could be part of the problem. TWO bad Optimas. I know others have had issues with them too.
 
I just had to replace the redtop that wsa in my sub when I got it. I could not find out what was causing my drain. Replaced all battery cables and alternator and still no more than a day before dead. Replaced the one that was in the truck at time of purchase, and BAMM, problem solved.
 
My dad had a string of 3 bad optimas in a row. He bought 2 for his boat, they were both bad and so was 1 of the 2 replacements. Seems like a recurring trend with those batteries. They're great if you can find a good one.
 
SkysTheLimit said:
My dad had a string of 3 bad optimas in a row. He bought 2 for his boat, they were both bad and so was 1 of the 2 replacements. Seems like a recurring trend with those batteries. They're great if you can find a good one.
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exactly, and I just didn't think they were worth the hype. I went interstate and never had a problem, and that was with the built stereo in my dd.
 
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