Manny's 83 K10 (INDEX)(56K) Manny answers his critics and FALSE ACCUSATIONS

[drop the hammer]

though I have never posted in your build thread, I have followed it, and even though I am in the Coast Guard, I give my best wishes to a brother in arms while they work on your skull.

 

[chevy wrangler]

awesome muddy!!

 

[bent and twisted]

Manny, I don't post here much but I just had to say, there are not many people like you left in the world, your heart is as big as Texas, your attention to detail is uncanny and your not afraid to ask questions, you will go far in life with this attitude and have 1 helluva truck to get you there damn that was the best thing I have said about anybody in a long time, anyways if you could get your truck to Houston I could show you how to weld that frame stiffner in and build a cage for it at no cost to you using my welder and bender hell you can even stay at my house so you wouldn't have to get a hotel

 

[bent and twisted]

edit LOL that was my first post LOL

 

[Chevy305]

Ok Manny, but I think you need a bigger carb than 650 cfm...

Also linkie no workie

 

[Seafarer76]

That's nearly the exact carb I am running. I have a Carter 9635 AFB. The primary difference is that mine doesn't have the adjustable secondary air valve, but it does have electric choke. Mine is tuned to my engine (at least pretty close) and runs great now. I had some issues with dieseling and a hesitation, which were fixed by rejetting and a new accelerator pump and spring. I also installed the off-road needle and seat. If you decide you want that 650 edelbrock, and can wait until this summer, let me know. I am taking off the carb and putting on TPI, so I won't need it anymore. We could work something out.

 

[JEBSR]

Many, as you can see, everyone with a built engine has had to tune the carters and edelbrocks as well. If you go to much smaller with that engine you are running the risk of leaning out at higher RPM's and killing the motor. If you have that thing proffesionally tuned and have them drill the front butterfly's your problems will be solved. I have ran my 880 {modded 850) on and off on the street and strip since 89 with one rebuild around 98-99. It has .610 lift and 315 duration cam so I understand the problems a big cam introduces to these carbs. The drilled butterfly's will be the biggest help to you, once you do that someone will be able to tune it in pretty easy.

 

[YZEATER]

since your getting a new shaft made, i would level out the engine, tranny and t-case. someone lowered the rear of everything to get better driveshaft angles. now it's causing you problems because the front output is pointing up. your more then likely gonna have some custom work done on the crossmemeber.

 

[thebird00]

Manny,

I had the same issue with my crossmember hitting on my front drive shaft after I got my new one from HAD. I'm running 12 inch springs up front.

The problem wasn't with the angle, but the new CV was bigger and needed more clearance. I did that spacer flip on the crossmemeber and that alowed the clearence I needed. I kept the transcase in the stock position and just lowered the crossmember for the extra CV clearance I needed. I stacked washers between the T case and crossmember.

IIRC I needed a couple longer bolts for the T Case to bolt back to the crossmember. I plan on making some solid spacers to replace the flipped stock ones between the frame and crossmember. I couldn't forsee this causing any problems, but maybe someone else could clarify that.

Mark

 

[ryoken]

Manny.....

This may have been covered, if so, my apologies... But what does Mr Janke have to say about the carberator issue?

It ran awesome on the dyno, wasn't that this carb? And I would think for the money you probably paid on the motor, that he would want it running correctly for you....

Anyway, good luck with the health issue... You'll do fine!

 

[mr.smartass]

I know you've already dumped approximately one billion dollars into your rig, but have you thought about doing a SYE and clocking the T-case while you're getting new driveshafts? This would save you from having to spend money later on new driveshafts, and you could get a custom crossmember that would help clearance some. Flat bellies are sexy! Just a thought. I completely understand being on a budget.

 

[muddybuddy]

I know you've already dumped approximately one billion dollars into your rig, but have you thought about doing a SYE and clocking the T-case while you're getting new driveshafts? This would save you from having to spend money later on new driveshafts, and you could get a custom crossmember that would help clearance some. Flat bellies are sexy! Just a thought. I completely understand being on a budget.

haha! manny aint on a budget! yea i mentioned that to him. i think he said he was going to run the 208 for now and eventually get a 205 once the 208 breaks, i think he just wants to drive it, i can respect that especially with all the goodies he has

 

[gmc4cw]

I'll get pics of my crossmember. I modified it to clear the driveshaft. the spacers you have now are bad in several ways. as you lower the t-case the rear shaft angle gets better while the front gets worse. also the spacers you have put a lot of stress in a small area. take them out and bolt the crossmember directly to the frame.

call Kert back and have him send you a clocking ring along with the steering stabilizer brackets. use the first position. this will eliminate the need for a custom crossmember. it should clear your floor fine. you may need to tweak the exhaust. then take final measurements for the front shaft.

 

[obijuan]

[/hijack]

****! should i raise my tcase?? this is how i got it. i have only like an inch and a half out on the slip yoke and the fronts got plenty of room to travel some.

[/hijack]

 

[mrdrinksalil]

-Hijack-

so THAT'S what a double hump crossmember looks like!... ahhhh.... finaly..

 

[muddybuddy]

[/hijack]

****! should i raise my tcase?? this is how i got it. i have only like an inch and a half out on the slip yoke and the fronts got plenty of room to travel some.

[/hijack]

you are probably fine. u are running 6" lift, manny is running 10", big difference

 

[hunterguy86]

Hey bud, you will probably want to do something about those spacers, as I have heard that they will eventually pull through the frame. I have mine set up the same way as yours now, but am thinking about using some square tubing instead of the spacers, and some grade 8 bolts for a more solid mount. I love having a girlfriend who works at Tractor Supply, she said she can get the stuff for me on her discount.

 

[hunterguy86]

Oh, almost forgot,

Jess said I need to rotate the pinion of the 14 bolt up towards the TC. How many degrees should I go? Where do I find the wedges and do I need to bolt them to the spring packs? If so, where do I get longer centerbolts?

Manny

You can get new centerpins from ORD. Thats where I got mine for the rear add a leaves. I think I may have 2
extra that you can have, but I need to check.

 

[thedrip]

For the rear pinion, rotate it up enough that it points directly at the tcase output. (you did say a CV shaft in the rear, right?).

For the tcase spacers, they definately are not to be used as spacers where you have them. They go above the frame rail, and allow the use of longer bolts, which in turn allows proper torquing. They are also used behind the steering box for the same reason.

 

[gmc4cw]

A 12 degree shim is a big angle. is your current lift block tapered at all? I am going to disagree with Thedrip slightly. the pinion should be pointed at the t-case but if anything should be angled down by a degree or two from being perfectly inline. your springs may not allow any axlewrap, but with a lift block and that healthy stroker there is a chance.

A shackle flip would help. you would eliminate your lift block, improve your pinion angle and improve the ride quality of the truck.