I have a 98 Chevy K1500 truck. I am going to be doing a solid axle swap in the front end to get rid of the IFS. I brought a Dana 44 from a friend that pulled one out of a blazer. He didnt know what year blazer the dana 44 came out of but I did some research and found that it has to be 78 or older k5 because its the dana 44. Last night I was taking it apart to find out what i am going to be needing to order for new parts, and I am wanting to go to manual hubs. My question is on this axle there was just a cap on the end of the hub. I took a screw driver and hammered on it to pop the cap off. Inside was the little clip and a coil and the locking hob. Took this off and there was the spindle nut (the one that you have to have the special socket to take off). I was looking into getting Warn Preimiums and was on there web site and read somthing about a conversion thingy. What exactly do i need to buy to get the warns to work. I searched this for a bit and it seems that i may have an axle that was full time 4wd. Help me out please. Oh and by the way I am running a np241 pass. drop t case. Thanks
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Manual Hub question on D44
- Thread starter TB383
- Start date
87BrnRsd
1/2 ton status
Ive never seen that design before, but I think that the warn should swap right on. Is there enough room inside the hub, past the last hub nut to install a new locking hub? If there is, then it should work. Full time 4wd blazers were made until 1979, but the ones that I have seen have normal manual hubs on them. I think as long as there is enough room for the warn to fit inside the hub, then it should work as almost all D44's and 10 bolts on our trucks have interchangeable hubs. Some pictures might help us out more.
-Harrison
-Harrison
Get a set of hubs for a Dana 44 or a 10 bolt. The lockout will go inside the wheelhub, and only a little bit will stick out. Probly go to the junkyard and get a set. But then again, a new set is only like $50 or so. Does that axle have a pass side flattop knuckle?? Only way to do the steering on IFS/SAS is crossover.
yes it does have flat tops but it is not tapped and threaded. I am going to take it off and take it to a machine shop and have them thread it. Who makes a good steering arm for this kind of swap?
And where would you buy the steering arm?
And where would you buy the steering arm?
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
Northwest Fab, WFO, ORD, Sky Manufacturing, they all sell Dana 44 Xover arms which one you want is personal choice.
Ira
Ira
Don't have to buy anything other than the hubs. When you pull that cap off, there will be a slug in there held on by a snapring. New hubs come with the stuff you need to install them. If you go to a yard and get them, just get everything inside...
atlantak-5er
1/2 ton status
TB383 said:
No. Just make sure you get the premiums. Well worth the extra $$ IMO. Install is straightforward and takes about 15 min/side.
Dito:
My first ride was a 76. The Warn premium swapped right in. They are worth the money IMO. I broke one of the locking hub springs on one side in Rockey Point. Last trip B4 college graduation some 14 years ago. Took it apart on the beach and was able to get it locked in to get off the beach.
I'm partial to Warn Prem hubs.
My first ride was a 76. The Warn premium swapped right in. They are worth the money IMO. I broke one of the locking hub springs on one side in Rockey Point. Last trip B4 college graduation some 14 years ago. Took it apart on the beach and was able to get it locked in to get off the beach.
I'm partial to Warn Prem hubs.
