Manual hubs

[ANTMAN]

Any recommendations on manual hubs?
Who would be a reliable supplier?

Any advise on installation would be appreciated.

ANTMAN

 

[muddin4fun]

Warn! Warn! Warn!!! They're pretty simple to replace if you get the tool that looks like a big socket

Keep your feet dry

 

[CaptCrunch]

I just ordered Mile Marker Supremes from Summit. They were like $75 w/ shipping. Looked into them and were some posts about troubles fitting the Warn premiums on. MM's are a 3/4 turn design that is easier to turn then the superwinchs. Offroad.com has a write up on their chevy page comparing Warn and MM... only knock on MM was supposably hard to turn... found a guy running them and tried them... just as easy as the warns I say... Just my $.02

1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI

 

[elkboy]

I gotta agree with muddin4fun. WARN WARN WARN. A premium set will run you about $70.00 and they are all metal and lifetime gaurenteed. I have had four different sets of warn hubs and zero failures. In fact I have never seen a warn premium hub fail on anything. In fact I just bought another set to replace the auto hub I just broke on my F250. Just my 2cents

<font color=red> Elkboy</font color=red>

 

[BOWTIE]

WARN is the way to go. I had both the standard and the premiums and never had one fail on me...As far as the problems with installation I had none on either set.

MY K-5 DOESN'T LEAK... IT JUST MARKS ITS TERRITORY.

 

[pcorssmit]

As for 1 ton hubs, I've yet to break a factory one.

As for internal spline 1/2 & 3/4 ton hubs:

My vote for durability and strength would be Selectros. Not sure if they still make them. They are the ones where you turn the whole outer part (they also made the dial type, but I've never tried these). I've also seen them with another name, but the same internals. I ran these on my 44 and never broke one, the only problem is unlocking them, they tend to bind up, a front locker makes the problem worse. Definitly the way to go if you are open, or don't mind fighting them to get them unlocked. It helps to shift into 2wd and drive a bit, then try to unlock them. Another down side is they tend to get kind of gross, I keep gloves on hand.

Factory Warns: Junk. Lasted 5 minutes.

Superwinch: Junk. I've borrowed two of these from one of my Jeep buddies and blown them both the same day I put them on. I will say that their Jeep Dana 30 hubs seem to be good, lots of guys like them.

Warn Premium: These seem to be pretty strong, but the locking mechanism is a flimsy piece of sheet metal. DO NOT ever force these hubs (ie pliers), or you'll bend this piece. However, they do seem to unlock farily easy, as you are not actually moving the splined part, you are simply unloading a spring with the dial.

Pete

'83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
'97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd

 

[Chaz88K5]

ok just a thought....it seems to me that the hub should be the weak link in the drive train...a hub is easier to fix than a axle on the trail and alot cheeper...my next hubs are goin to be some cheepo's so i dont snap any axles or u-joint....loosing a drive shaft because of a u-joint breaking would put a damper on things...when that u-joint breaks the shaft would hit the ground and posibly damage it i.e. bend the shaft, screw up the yokes etc etc...
there is my .02 cents

Chaz

"Hondas look good under a k5's tires"

 

[BOWTIE]

that seems like a good idea...you probably already know, but Warn made those hub fuses for thier premium hubs just for that reason...I also heard that you cannot use these if you have some kind of front locker.

MY K-5 DOESN'T LEAK... IT JUST MARKS ITS TERRITORY.