Manual trans swap questions.

[riv1973]

Hi all! My son and I are putting a 465 manual in our 1988 blazer. We got the whole set up from a 1986 and later blazer-Including switches and clutch. We then got a new clutch, flywheel, clutch fork,pressure plate and throw out bearing (and pilot bearing). We installed the above parts and bell housing without the trans (easier to work on without it. Hole is in the floor, pedals installed, clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder installed. Hydraulic line is ready but not in yet.

I noticed now with all this installed the throw out bearing does not seem to line up with the center of the clutch. We used the alignment tool so the clutch is in the correct location. The bearing when in the fork is off to the drivers side. If I push the fork to the passenger side to center the bearing it pops off the ball stud.

I took it all apart and compared the new parts to the old parts (especially the clutch fork). All seem the same size and locations for the ball stud to hit both forks.

We are thinking to take the bell housing off and then putting the bell housing on the trans on our bench and then putting this all in at one time. Instead of bell housing first then trans.

Can anyone help with this? I will include pics. The pics are looking towards the front ot the truck from the back of the trans.

Thanks!

John

 

[nvrenuf]

In the pics, the throwout bearing is positioned inboard of the centerline of the top and bottom mounting clips on the fork, if the bearing was centered it would line up. It's been a bit but I don't believe the bearing should be bottomed out in the mouth of the fork.

 

[riv1973]

We used the old clutch fork and it is fitting perfectly! I think the new clutch fork holds it in the wrong spot.

 

[shock88]

the clutch fork should hold the bearing on its center, if u compare the pictures of the old vs new, you can see how the clutch forks are the same length, but like nvrenuf said, the bearing isnt suppose to be bottomed against the mouth of the fork.

 

[riv1973]

Thanks all for the help! I guess I just assumed it should be bottomed out.

So new issue. Anyone know how to easily or properly bleed the new hydraulic clutch (master cylinder and slave? We are pumping the clutch pedal and bleeding as if it was a brake system. But we are not making much headway. System is brand new stuff. So starting from scratch. I heard this was hard. Any help would be appreciated!

John

 

[shock88]

Thanks all for the help! I guess I just assumed it should be bottomed out.

So new issue. Anyone know how to easily or properly bleed the new hydraulic clutch (master cylinder and slave? We are pumping the clutch pedal and bleeding as if it was a brake system. But we are not making much headway. System is brand new stuff. So starting from scratch. I heard this was hard. Any help would be appreciated!

John

funny you ask that, i JUST had to bleed my set up for my nv4500 swap, and i did something a little oddball but it worked great! I took an empty bottle of brake fluid, drilled holes and bolted in some bolt in schrader valve stems, took out the bottom stem core, and put the reservoir hose onto it. Then i filled the bottle roughly half way with brake fluid, and crewed on the cap, i put roughly 5psi-10psi in it (guessing) and opened up the bleeder on the slave cylinder. worked like a charm. It was a little abstract but from past experiences i knew how much of a pain they can be. here’s a pic of my funny set up. to transfer back to the normal reservoir, i pinched off the hose gently with vise grips, put it back into the normal reservoir and filled the normal reservoir with fluid before releasing the vise grips, a couple little bubbles floated up as expected and that was it.

 

[riv1973]

I am very intrigued by this and want to try it! So can you send a few more pics? So basically you created a way to pressurize the brake fluid bottle so it forced the fluid down to the slave cylinder. Correct? What type of fittings did you use? And what what the device you used to put the 5-10 psi into the bottle.

John

 

[riv1973]

Ok yoy used schrader valves from
A bike tire top and bottom. But you made the bottom one hollow so it would flow down the hose to the clutch master cylinder. How did you make it hollow!

John

 

[shock88]

Ok yoy used schrader valves from
A bike tire top and bottom. But you made the bottom one hollow so it would flow down the hose to the clutch master cylinder. How did you make it hollow!

John

i used bolt in style valve stems for a truck/car. you can find them on amazon or any auto parts store, and to “hollow it out” you simply take out the valve stem core itself. They have a special small screwdriver made just for that, the cores unscrew from the valve stem just like any bolt does. google “replacing valve stem core” and you’ll see what i mean.

 

[HankScorpio]

You are trying to push the air bubble down but it wants to float up. I was able to grab the slave cylinder/fork and push it by hand from under the truck. Essentially bleeding the system backwards which pushed the bubble up and out into the reservoir.

 

[nvrenuf]

I believe that when installed the slave is at a slight angle and wants to trap air. Many times people will unbolt the slave and hold it with the bleeder high and then have someone pump the pedal to bleed it.