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Mark viii fan / spal pwm v3 controller issues

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GalDemSuga

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Folks

I recently decided to do an electric fan swap in my 95 Yukon. I found a Mark VIII fan ($15.00) and a SPAL PWM V3 ($119.00) on ebay. I modified the factory shroud to accomodate fan, which I removed from its original shroud (pics below).

I finished the wiring this afternoon and now it doesnt work as advertised. When I attempt to program the unit as per the manual nothing happens. I hold the program button down for the stated 5 seconds and I get no feedback from the controller. The fan only comes on when I engage the AC and works well.
 
Issues uploading the pictures.

Just visited SPAL website and now there's a disclaimer stating that the unit wont work with fans that draw a continous 30Amps. This is funny because the retailer Speedway Motors didn't mention this when they sold me the unit.

How can this be accurate when the fan runs on AC requests?
 
Seems to me that you could run relay(s) rated for the load, and then the controller only has to control the 70mA of the relay coil :deal:

-- A
 
and the temperature setting is correct or at least low enough to test? Is it a radiator probe or actual sensor touching the coolant?
 
Its the stock sensor in the block. Its a good sensor as I was running TunePro RT to make sure it was working.
The SPAL unit wont program but it kicks in the fan at high speed (which is really low speed by Mark VIII standards) when I turn on the AC.

K85 Octane said:
and the temperature setting is correct or at least low enough to test? Is it a radiator probe or actual sensor touching the coolant?
Click to expand...
 
Run a relay to fan and you'll have no issue. I have used that controller for over a year. Takes a few to program but works great.
 
Two questions about this; what relay and why? Oh most importantly how?

I believe this issue may be that the spal unit isnt sensing the temp. I have it spliced into the stock sensor unit's wire. I may need to run another sensor and connect the spal connector directly to that. I believe this because it only works with the AC which is really a toggle switch to override the spal unit and run the fan all out.

Mountain_man said:
Run a relay to fan and you'll have no issue. I have used that controller for over a year. Takes a few to program but works great.
Click to expand...
 
70amp relay, the relay gets power from the battery and sends it to the fan, therefore taking all load off the controller. You said it might be over drawing the controller so a relay would be your solution. It might be the sensor also, it really should have it's own dedicated line.
 
GalDemSuga said:
Where is Fordum at? Maybe he can help me to keep this controller and still get the desired result.
Click to expand...

Sorry about that. I didn't notice who posted, and the title did not sound interesting.
I always check out your posts. You have the most interesting problems........

I'm still reading the tech manual on the controller, but I want to post this right away.
A relay will NOT work. Don't even bother to try.
Well, it might work for a little while, but it will burn up fast, and the controller would probably not turn on anyway.

Now, there is a relay output on the controller that you can hook a relay to and it will power a fan.
But that fan will run at only one speed, and you might as well just use a temperature switch instead of the controller.

If you want, you can stop reading here. I'm going to post how this controller works, and why a relay will not work. Its a lot of technical stuff.
Its mostly for the folks who don't believe me when I say a relay will burn up.

This controller uses Pulse Width Modulation to control fan speed. There are two basic ways to control a DC fan.
You can use a resistor, or a transistor used as a variable resistor. It just converts the unneeded amps to heat and makes the fan run slow.

It works, but makes a lot of heat, and wastes a lot of energy. Not that big a problem in a car.

Or you can use switching technology. Which is the way computer power supplies work.
The controller turns the power on full for a very short time, then turns completely off.
Since there in no point where there is any resistance, no power is wasted.

The fan starts to turn, then coasts when the power is off. To make the fan run faster, it stays on longer.
It supplies power in pulses, and varies the width, or length of time, the pulses stay on to control the speed.

This is fine, when its hooked straight to the fan, but not so much if you are driving a relay connected to the fan.
If you put a relay between the fan and controller, the relay will turn on and off multiple times per minute, or maybe even per second.

The points are not going to last long at that rate.

Let me study the manual some, and I will try to tell what the problem is.
 
OK, now, does the green light light up when you turn the ignition on? And are both the big and small black wires grounded?

If so, are there any error codes blinking?
There is a good possibility that the sensor you are using is not compatible with that system.
The manual says some newer GM sensors will have problems.

That system will not work with a fan that draws more than 30 amps. But, if the fan does draw more than that, you should get an error code also.

If there is no fan hooked to it, or if the fan is a real low draw, it will not work. Which a relay would cause, since it does not draw enough current either.
But, you will get an error code in that case also.

Let me know what you find.
 
Fordum said:
This controller uses Pulse Width Modulation to control fan speed.
Click to expand...

Carp. When I saw the bit about "running the fan full-on" I realized I hadn't considered speed control...

But yeah, I take back the relay part.

-- A
 
I've not had these issues of constant cycling that you speak about with my spal. Wired the relay as per instructions included with controller, hooked up the sensor wire white one I believe and proceeded to set min and max temp based on the wire hooked to my gauge sensor. I used this setup for over a year on my 67 mustang and as far asi know it's still working perfectly. If your relay is a cheap 30 amp you will have issues replacing them but a good 50+ and should be fine.

The pwm module allows this module to be turned on at half power on low temp causing the under powered fan youre seeing. On hi setting it increases from 50% power ask the way through the range up until it needs 100%. Again I've run this setup already with the same fan.
 
Mountain_man said:
I've not had these issues of constant cycling that you speak about with my spal. Wired the relay as per instructions included with controller, hooked up the sensor wire white one I believe and proceeded to set min and max temp based on the wire hooked to my gauge sensor. I used this setup for over a year on my 67 mustang and as far asi know it's still working perfectly. If your relay is a cheap 30 amp you will have issues replacing them but a good 50+ and should be fine.

The pwm module allows this module to be turned on at half power on low temp causing the under powered fan youre seeing. On hi setting it increases from 50% power ask the way through the range up until it needs 100%. Again I've run this setup already with the same fan.
Click to expand...
The relay you hooked up is the overload relay. It kicks on when the temp gets too high, and sends the fan to full power.
Its either on or off, it does not do any high speed switching to adjust the speed.
The controller turns the fan on and off at high rates to make variable speeds.

If you put a relay between the controller and fan on the variable speed output, it would be clicking so fast it would burn up in short order.

I have been looking at solid state relays. They have no moving parts, and can switch at high speeds.

The only ones I can find with a 40 amp rating, are expensive.
 
Does anyone know anything about these controllers?

http://www.dccontrol.com/fancontrol.htm

I actually have one in my truck, wired and ready, BUT I haven't put in my E-fan yet, still running the mechanical. It was recommended to me by a friend. They are really nice units, made really well, but so far mine is only an underhood ornament.
 
Not much input but I've heard nothing but bad things with a SPAL controller and the Mark VIII fan, that is why I was going with a DC controller like K85 linked.

But have since lost the K5 and have now got my Mark VIII in the for sale forum.
 
You know a K5 is aweful big to have been lost:D did u check under the bed:haha:

Muddytazz said:
Not much input but I've heard nothing but bad things with a SPAL controller and the Mark VIII fan, that is why I was going with a DC controller like K85 linked.

But have since lost the K5 and have now got my Mark VIII in the for sale forum.
Click to expand...
 
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