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mech clutch linkage question

sweetk30

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if i have to live with the mech clutch linkage for now whats the best setup for good pedel and function. also i have a body lift. thanks. this will be on the winter beeter truck.
 
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My vote is for Centerforce Dual Friction

Generates up to a 90% increase in holding capacity over stock systems. This clutch/disc set is designed for use with engines producing 'high horsepower and torque' output, and any radically altered high performance street vehicles. This system is also ideally suited for use with four wheel drive vehicles. All Centerforce® clutch systems provide smooth engagement and light pedal pressure without compromising high performance.

I had this on my hydro setup and it worked great. Can still feather it. Its suppose to give a light feeling on the pedal because of the weights but I never tried it on a mech setup.
 
thanks for all the help guys. but please read again. i have good clutch. i want info on linkage stuff. thanks.
 
Linkage

I just did a linkage fab on my 1980 fullsize. The holes in the bell crank, and upper pedal shaft were badly worn and ovaled out. The push rod was scaloped out on both ends. And, the pedal shaft was completely worn and the sleave ovaled at the attachment point (behind the instrument cluster) so that the clutch pedal was pulled over to the left by the return spring and would not return up. I went to a pick and pull yard and found an acceptable pedal upper link with good sleave and fiber inserts. I used a threaded rod and heim joints to attach at the upper point and to the bellcrank below the floor. You must bend the rod same as the original, and thread heim joints using lock nuts. If you have a body lift, just fab it a little longer. As far as the bell crank to throwout bearing fork linkage, you can do the same if needed. Hope this helps. Let me know if you need more info.

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I don't know how much fabbing you want to do, BUT my suggestion. International used a cable clutch setup for years. No binding with flex, no linkage to adjust. I had 3 Binders and never had any problems with any of them. If I ever need to replace the linkage on my K5, its getting the Binder set up, just my 2 cents.
 
Why don't you convert to hydro? Cost? I just sold my setup for $100. Probably get it cheaper at a salvage yard or a part out.

PS- You never mentioned you had a good clutch. You just asked for the best setup. By "setup" I thought you meant complete clutch setup. :p:
sweetk30 said:
if i have to live with the mech clutch linkage for now whats the best setup for good pedel and function. also i have a body lift. thanks. this will be on the winter beeter truck.
 
x2 , I got the complete pedal assembly , fluid resivor , used mastercylinder and bought a new slave cyl and I was only into it for $75 cash . I did make a bracket out of 1/4" plate for the slave cyl that bolt's to the bell housing , 2 bolt's thru the engineblock and the use the hole on the side of the block . I got the Idea off PBB . I had the old style linkage but I just figured it was apart so do it right the first time . I didn't know about the IH stuff . I may look into IF it's better than the hydro .
 
most if not all of the good yards hear are all out of the 73-87-91 stuff. and if thay do get one it most of the time goes to crusher not the yard and if yard is cleaned in a day or 2.


and in my origanal question i did say linkage. i dont mean to be a hard a$$ . just wanted some good info. we all miss things from time to time. i only edited the title to say linkage in the main page.

but thanks for all the good info.
 
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