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Mechanical vs. Electrical temp gauge

Unless you need to mount it in a tight spot, I would go mechanical, but that's just me. They seem to usually offer a more detailed gauge, and I like to keep electronic/wiring maintenance to a minimum if I can

Honestly, they are both equally accurate these days, it is mostly your opinion on how it looks and which gauge you like better. If it's in a tight spot, electronic is the way to go since you usually need a pretty straight shot for a mech
 
I like mechanicasl oil, but I prefer electric water temp.. easier, cheaper repair when the sender fails...
 
He has a very good point on that water temp gauge. I have a mechanical and would have to replace it all the way back to the adjustable switch under the hood if it failed.
 
note to use of mech pressure for hot oils.

use copper line if at all possible. the nylon cheep stuff thay give you dosnt last.

seen a guy get almost a burnt foot and leg from a old nylon line break off . the hot engine oil come out and right down his tall rubber boots he had on. it was a old f600 truck with mech steering and old windy road. so just sutting off the motor wasnt the best option .

that oil gome out of that little line so fas and hot he was like a mexican jumping bean in that drivers seat till he got his had on the line and held his thumb on it. then i down shifted as he steered 1 handed with no power steering.

lucky we were close to home by about 1 mile. drove back with line pinched in hand with plyers and he drove. took out fitting and pluged off the port for a few days till we could get a new copper line and NOT the nylon stuff.
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as to mech or electric. i prefer electric. its 1 tiny wire out to engine. most mech i have ever seen are huge long semi stiff funky lookin probe. and lots of times the end of the probe that goes in the liquid cant clear the inside of some heads/intakes .
 
I have used both in my rigs, but prefer an electric temp gauge. Mechanical gauges work fine as well just more of a pain to install/replace when needed. I ran all electric on my last build and never had any problems even when water was introduced to the gauge cluster! With either one get a good quality, I haven't seen the Napa specials hold up very well on my friends trucks.
 
I have used both...the mechanical works well, but eventually started sticking, but did straighten itself out after more use. I did have an electric, and it worked fine. What I have now is a "full sweep" electric. I like it the best, it's the most accurate, and has a built in warning light and peak memory.
 
folkenheath said:
I have used both...the mechanical works well, but eventually started sticking, but did straighten itself out after more use. I did have an electric, and it worked fine. What I have now is a "full sweep" electric. I like it the best, it's the most accurate, and has a built in warning light and peak memory.
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Ooooooh, I like the sound of that.

The main reason I like mechanical is the full sweep gauge vs. that little 90 degree sweep with vague markings that most electrics have.
 
II also have full sweep electric made by stewart warner. I have also used some autometer full sweep that worked very well. For offorad liquid filled are nice if you wanna spend the money fyi.
 
sweetk30 said:
note to use of mech pressure for hot oils.

use copper line if at all possible. the nylon cheep stuff thay give you dosnt last.
Click to expand...

I hear you, but I don't trust the copper anymore either on the oil pressure. I didn't trust the nylon so I ran copper line. I had a coil after the fitting on the engine to allow for stress absorption. Anyway, the copper line cracked on me about 3 times within a year, where it comes out of the engine block. It would leave me stranded after I would be forced to shut the engine off before I lost oil pressure. I would know it pretty easily because of the hot oil spewing everywhere and then getting on the exhuast and leaving a big smoke trail. The first time I thought it was a fluke. The 2nd time I made double sure everything was not being stressed or too loose/tight, and the third time I said F this. Anyway, this was years ago but I swapped that one line for a small premaid braided stainless one and never looked back. Don't trust nylon or copper for the oil pressure line if you run mech, too critical.

DizturbedOne said:
Ooooooh, I like the sound of that.

The main reason I like mechanical is the full sweep gauge vs. that little 90 degree sweep with vague markings that most electrics have.
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It was more money, but it was worth it, it has a programmable warning light right inside the gauge (can get it without), and is a 2 wire sensor so there is much less chance of grounding issues through the threads causing innacurate readings. It can also communicate with data loggers if you race and use those.

SM%20gauges.jpg
 
Folkenheath is running the same autometer pro-comp ultra lite gauges I ran in my cruiser and a cj5 I built for a family member, they are great gauges and worth the extra money!
 
Well somebody already snatched it up, hopefully it was somebody from here!

folkenheath, which size are those gauges you have? I got the 2 5/8" one, I'd like to put it in the spot on my cucv dash where the battery light used to be for the 24v system.
 
My truck had a mechanical water temp gauge but the copper line wound up cracking. When the truck gets put back together I will be going full electric for everything.
 
Lotsa_Faith said:
Well somebody already snatched it up, hopefully it was somebody from here!

folkenheath, which size are those gauges you have? I got the 2 5/8" one, I'd like to put it in the spot on my cucv dash where the battery light used to be for the 24v system.
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2 5/8" and 5"
 
I have mechanical, but if I were to do it again i'd go electrical. I find the probe is in the way and there is no way of disconnecting it from the gauge. It makes for removing the dash cluster a PITA.
 
folkenheath said:
I hear you, but I don't trust the copper anymore either on the oil pressure. I didn't trust the nylon so I ran copper line. I had a coil after the fitting on the engine to allow for stress absorption. Anyway, the copper line cracked on me about 3 times within a year, where it comes out of the engine block. It would leave me stranded after I would be forced to shut the engine off before I lost oil pressure. I would know it pretty easily because of the hot oil spewing everywhere and then getting on the exhuast and leaving a big smoke trail. The first time I thought it was a fluke. The 2nd time I made double sure everything was not being stressed or too loose/tight, and the third time I said F this. Anyway, this was years ago but I swapped that one line for a small premaid braided stainless one and never looked back. Don't trust nylon or copper for the oil pressure line if you run mech, too critical.



It was more money, but it was worth it, it has a programmable warning light right inside the gauge (can get it without), and is a 2 wire sensor so there is much less chance of grounding issues through the threads causing innacurate readings. It can also communicate with data loggers if you race and use those.

SM%20gauges.jpg
Click to expand...

I am jealous of that gauge cluster sir
 
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