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Membership *DONE*....Hub Assembly*DONE*

This was going to be my next question! Just a light coat?

Sent from my M860


Yep. pack the wheel bearings well, of course, but remember that for the hubs to work, a large piece of steel has to slide back and forth on lots of little splines by spring pressure.

So, you need lube to let it slide easily, and prevent rust, but that chunk of steel fills up the hub pretty full, and there is not a lot of gaps for grease to move through.
So, if it has to push its way through grease, its not going to.

I know this, because I once fixed a friend's hub that he had just worked on.
You could not even turn the hub all the way. He had pretty much filled it with grease, and there was not enough room for the chunk to move!

I know people who have lubed the hubs with Vaseline, or even light oil. I think that is a little overkill, but I don't know of any damage resulting. And their hubs worked very smoothly.

Just use good grease on the wheel bearings. Vaseline don't work there for long............

And yes, I know a guy who did it...........NOT me.
 
Yep. pack the wheel bearings well, of course, but remember that for the hubs to work, a large piece of steel has to slide back and forth on lots of little splines by spring pressure.

So, you need lube to let it slide easily, and prevent rust, but that chunk of steel fills up the hub pretty full, and there is not a lot of gaps for grease to move through.
So, if it has to push its way through grease, its not going to.

I know this, because I once fixed a friend's hub that he had just worked on.
You could not even turn the hub all the way. He had pretty much filled it with grease, and there was not enough room for the chunk to move!

I know people who have lubed the hubs with Vaseline, or even light oil. I think that is a little overkill, but I don't know of any damage resulting. And their hubs worked very smoothly.

Just use good grease on the wheel bearings. Vaseline don't work there for long............

And yes, I know a guy who did it...........NOT me.


I used good wheel bearing grease on the bearings and have the spindle nuts/washer torqued into place correctly......just waiting for my lockout hubs to arrive and will get them installed next.

I was going to just lightly cover all of the splines in the housing and a rub down around all of the gears/clutches for the lockouts and slide it all in! :D

Vaseline doesn't last long as a lubricant for a lot of things.....:whistle:
 
***update***

Okay, so I got the NEW Mile Marker Stainless Steel Hubs and got them installed.........all is well!

Update:

There is NO pressure spring that goes behind the lockout hub between the hub and the spindle nuts! It's all built inside the hub as a complete unit.....the pictures of the earlier model K10/20 with part #13 and #14 was throwing me off. This was my MOST IMPORTANT question that I was asking all along and for some reason I guess the right person never came along who could answer........

So.....after installing the NEW packed with grease wheel bearings and races, then installing the spindle nuts/washer and torqued properly at 50lbs and then backed off around 1/4 turn to align up the pin in the washer with the keyed shaft and then the outer spindle nut torqued to 150lbs you just lightly lubricate the outer hub and slide in the hub, install the c-clip onto the end of the axle and the outer hub clip to hold the rest into place and bolt on the outer cap!

Literally, it took me less than 10 minutes to install the side I replaced AND to remove the right side and re-install the right side! I kept the cap for the left side and the complete hub for the right side in case I beat stuff up in the hills.......

(Information typed in for future reference)
 
Actually most folks here could have answered it, myself included, but we all missed the part where you were dealing with aftermarket..........

I know I thought it was the factory type hub that uses the big spring. Didn't know you were going with mile markers......
 
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