Messed up rear upper shock mounts

[Mastiff]

I know this is a standard problem, but I'm still going to ask the question again. As is typical, my rear passenger upper shock mount got wallowed a little and ended up cracking the frame around the hole (looks like a triangle shaped piece could just pop out).

Additionally, the frame is tweaked down a little at that point, so the stud angles down when flush with the hole. What's the best repair option here? The most obvious, I guess, is to weld it all up. Weld the crack, then weld a washer onto the frame. Eliminating the angle would require shimming it somehow, maybe with half a washer on the bottom of the hole.

I have some 2x6x1/4" steel tubing, and I notice that the inside of this tubing is 1.5", the same as normal shock mount width. If I cut it into a C-channel, I could span the hole, and mount or weld the C to the flat part of the frame. It would be sort of imitation double shear that way, and would be pretty tough I think. The trick I haven't figured out is how to get the shock mounting bolt/stud hooked up in the back. I could go all the way through the frame, which might be okay, or maybe I could tack a nut onto the back side if I could get enough space. What do you guys think?

 

[evolve991]

Sounds like you're on a real good track for this headache!

 

[paratrooper307]

I had a similar issue on mine, this weird suspension clunk that I didn't find until I did the lift and rear shocks, and discovered that the upper bolt was loose. It wasn't wallowed out too bad and the frame was okay, so with the new hardware it bolted up just fine. I've been keeping an eye on it and it's been doing okay.

Your second repair options sounds good, but it will likely be more of a pain than it's worth. fixing the crack and welding up a washer will probably be plenty sufficient unless you really beat on it.

 

[dyeager535]

Once you get it fixed, my opinion is to weld the stud to the frame, just don't use athread deforming nut to hold the shock on.

Using washers will spread the load over a larger area, but as far as I've been able to tell, the stud being loose even a tiny bit is what causes this problem. Welding them solves the loose problem.

 

[euzoa]

I know I know

How did this repair work out?

Mine are really wallowed out, someone already welded a plate to fix one side, I was thinking of welding an 1/8 inched plate on each side, then welding the stud in place to stop further problems.

 

[tRustyK5]

That would work, or you could go with an inboarding kit from DIY4X and upgrade as you fix...

 

[Mastiff]

Driver's side I just welded it up. I had to use a half washer on the top to square it up, then tacked the mount itself so it can't wiggle around. On passenger side I beefed it with square tubing. Ignore the booger welds, I don't get much practice.

 

[tRustyK5]

That's a great fix with the tubing. Looks like an aftermarket piece...nice work! I'd consider doing the same on the other side.

 

[rebelgregory]

The square tubing fix is a vast improvement, so kudos! Not only is the force of the shock spread on two fasteners and over a wider area, but the shock itself is now in a double-shear arrangement. Although the frame side is still in single-shear, the redundant fasteners more than improve on the factory design. I'll have to remember that if I ever need it.

 

[tRustyK5]

Yeah, I may seriously steal that design/idea...