gonefishin
1/2 ton status
Ok everyone I am about to box my frame on my 89 k5 what thickness metal is everyone using? I am thinking 1/8th I can get enough of that for like $60 to do the whole thing. Does anyone think its not thick enough?
CK5
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metal thickness for boxing frame
- Thread starter gonefishin
- Start date
well anything is better than nothing but also don't go thicker than you frame.
The K5 frame is pretty thin so I believe it's close to if not 1/8"
I think stock thickness is 3/16" IIRC. 1/8 should be fine
, that being said, 1/8 would be fine. Stay close to the same thickness and you will be good.
Don't expect much flex anymore unless you have some flexy springs.
Dave (sixb) and I did mine with 3/16's plate. It was a large learning experiencing.
Make sure you weld in some braces between the two frame rails top and bottom to keep the distance between them the same. My frame actually shrank over 1.75 inches at the bottom of the frame rails.
It will be OK, just not perfect.
Make sure you weld in some braces between the two frame rails top and bottom to keep the distance between them the same. My frame actually shrank over 1.75 inches at the bottom of the frame rails.
It will be OK, just not perfect.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
1/8 is more than enough as said
gonefishin
1/2 ton status
Thanks guys I figured that would work I have a lot to do this summer maybe I will even start my build thread lol. Anyone think I can do a frame swap in 6 weeks? Only working on it at night
If your adventurous you could do it in a week. Its only about 6 or 8 bolts to pull the cab/tub off. Plus a little wire choppin.
mrdrinksalil
1/2 ton status
I used 3/16 but my truck if offroad only and sees a lot of abuse. I'm pretty sure Kert uses 3/16 too and I know my material selection was based on his suggestion. 6" flat bar was perfect for the whole middle section. Use a bigger (8") C-clamp on the lower edge of the frame rail to help bend the edge down, get a piece of 6" in there, tack it in at one end and use a 8"c-clamp to push the lower edge back up into the plate while your move your way down the frame tacking it in. Another 6" c-clamp, pry bar and hammer will help you keep the plate at the right depth in the frame "c-channel". It's actually really pretty easy once you figure it out.
rampage
3/4 ton status
I have a stupid question. I'm always hearing about people boxing their frame. The profile is a rectangle which isn't the strongest shape. Why not make the profile a triangle, the strongest shape. Basically weld the plate from the upper inside corner of the frame to the lower outside edge. I'm sure there's a reason but my brain's not working right now.
mrdrinksalil
1/2 ton status
You're thinking too hard dude. Are u high?
rampage
3/4 ton status
Just thinking outside the 'box'.
I can see you don't know either.
I can see you don't know either.
sixb
1/2 ton status
The k5's I've mic'ed were 5/32 and the 1 ton's were 15/64 I did have a 3/4 ton once but forgot the measurement but I think it was the same thickness as the 1 ton just not as tall. I used 3/16 to plate sections of my 1 ton and will more than likely use the same for the k5.
Kert uses 11ga. for his boxing kits...., .120 thickness
here is some info on frame thickness:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=235499&highlight=frame+thickness
here is some info on frame thickness:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=235499&highlight=frame+thickness
mrdrinksalil
1/2 ton status
Went back and checked pm's. Kert said he was 10g on the frame plates. I would personally still advise 3/16, especially if you are mounting any crossmembers off it. By the looks of those numbers posted all those frames are thicker than 1/8 and most thicker than 3/16.
Remember most that posted did 1 ton frames which are thicker, his is a blazer and it's pretty much 1/8".
There is no real advantage to having the plating thicker than the frame.
mrdrinksalil
1/2 ton status
To each his own but every thickness posted is closer to 3/16 than 1/8 except for one.
Just went and measured the K5 frame sitting in my garage on sawhorses. Wire wheeled the frame top and bottom where the partial VIN is stamped (approx. mid-way front to rear) and it's .183" As far as my knowledge takes me, the frame is between 1982 and 1986. Reinforcement riveted on the engine crossmember ('81 frame did not have), but was not FI.
I've got an '89 frame in the yard too, would be more than happy to clarify frame thickness in exactly the same spot.
I'm using the flat portion of one frame to box the other. I figure that will save me a bunch of fitting. Plus it was cheaper than the steel I'd have to buy.
I've got an '89 frame in the yard too, would be more than happy to clarify frame thickness in exactly the same spot.
I'm using the flat portion of one frame to box the other. I figure that will save me a bunch of fitting. Plus it was cheaper than the steel I'd have to buy.
