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Military blazer but only one battery...

stoney126

stoney126

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Jun 2, 2005
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napa,CA
Hey all, My blazer is very hard to start. Im replacing the battery being it was a cheap one th PO put in and im sure its in need of replacement. ITs a 750 cold cranking amp duralast. However I know these blazers were a 24 volt system. I only have one battery and one alternator, so this means im on 12 volt now correct?

How can I tell If I still have a 24 volt starter? Should I go back to a 24 volt system, or go with a gear reduction starter? My CC has two battery's, is it a 24 volt system? Excuse my ignorance but I just want to run this thing correctly .
Thanks all for any help
 
You would not be able to start a 6.2L with a 24V starter on 12V... It would spin at half the speed. A civi crew cab will be 12V with two batteries in Parallel.
 
Well just put a a new battery and got about 3 good turns out of it and it died. Am I supposed to have 2 batteries? Are there any numbers I can pull from the starter to find out for sure?
 
Post some pics of your wiring... do you still have the resistor bank wired up? It is possible someone tried to convert to 12V and didn't know what they were doing... or your new battery wasn't charged. Do you have a battery charger?
 
LOL I have no idea what the resistor bank look like. I do HAve a battery charger, it has a 2 and 6 amp setting.

Im gonna check for corrosion at the starter and other cables, gonna snap some pics


Btw the PO said he had a battery blow on him:confused:
 
thanks kenny, gotta get another battery tray and some wire and of course another battery :D
 
I think I may have the second CUCV battery tray laying around... I'll dig for it next time I get a chance to look thru my garage.
 
Ok on the 2 red wires from the battery one goes to the terminal block (its the big one) and the other goes to the resistor pack. Thats the black thing bolted to the firewall in the middle. Since you only have 12v in this system right now the resistor pack isn't doing much. Your PO removed the wrong alternator, the drivers side used the floating ground to make 24v. This will create charging problems of some kind I'd guess. I removed all the wiring on mine for the drivers side and rewired the passengers side so I didn't deal with that problem.

If all the wire is still there for both alternators I'd switch to the pass side and then rewire it like so. Run the output and reg voltage sensing wire (this is the thin single strand wire) to the top terminal block on the firewall. The same one the red battery cable goes to. The 16 gauge wire still needs to be connected to the ignition key so it can energize the fields in the alternator. That wire might be able to be stretched over from the other side if its gone. So in case its not clear the wire that screws down on the back (large red wire) and the smaller of the 2 in the plug in connector go to the terminal block. And the other wire should be wired to the key.

If you want to stay with 12v then the resistor pack can be removed and a wire run from the battery straight to the glow plug relay takes its place. Remember to use a fuse in it though.

you are now converted to 12v and need a 12v starter....use what you like
 
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