Milwaukee 1/2in Hammer Drill

[Babaganoosh]

I have this drill that was used on a real long extension cord that my Dad think had a voltage drop while using it. It works part time and sometimes if you twist the drill with your hand at a odd angle it works.

It has been tossed around the garage more then it has been used. Anyone have any idea how to fix this? I'm not even sure what model it is.

 

[Joe Blaze]

I have this drill that was used on a real long extension cord that my Dad think had a voltage drop while using it. It works part time and sometimes if you twist the drill with your hand at a odd angle it works.

It has been tossed around the garage more then it has been used. Anyone have any idea how to fix this? I'm not even sure what model it is.

Since it is metal, make sure you dont have a short to frame. You could get zapped if one wire on the inside is loose and touches the frame. Always make sure you use a grounded cord into a known grounded outlet box.

I was using a 50+ year old metal Black and Decker 1/4" drill at my father's house years back. It had the same intermittent fault that you describe. It was a last minute household repair job he needed done, so i did not want to go home to get real tools. Of course, he had no accessories, except for a few rusty drill bits, so I had to use an ungrounded lamp wire extension cord to run it. I was drilling some holes into the saddle at the entrance to the screened in porch. I had one hand on the drill, and I grabbed the metal door frame with my other hand to balance myself, and while I was twisting the drill to keep it running, i suddenly felt the 120VAC go from the drill, through both my arms, to the door frame. I guess the metal porch frame was grounded by being bolted into the ground. It did scare the hell out of me.

 

[British Slave]

Find a Milwaukee repair shop. If it can't be fixed, they will make you a good trade-in offer on a rebuilt.

 

[Fordum]

Its a pretty good drill. I can't tell if it has the easy replace brushes or not. There should be a section on the side of the drill above the handle with one screw holding it.
Take out that screw, and the section should slide out. There are brushes inside that may be worn down.

If not, then it may be a loose wire in the handle. If you can get to the brushes, you can look at the commutator and see if it looks badly burned.

Low voltage will cause commutator burning or rapid brush wear. The newer drills have spare brushes inside that section.

 

[Babaganoosh]

I will have to look into this and try the suggestions.


The drill was used on a job site for 1 hole first time used and on a really long extension cord.

 

[K85 Octane]

hmmmm

I have one of these drills. I say it's not worth it to fix. I switched over to the Bosch hammer drills for work. They work much better than the Mils and hold up to massive abuse. Just saying, if you are only going to use it one more time, fix it, but if you have jobs to do or have the extra cash for a new one......Bosch.

I have
1 of these: http://www.aconcordcarpenter.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/rotary-hammer-drill.jpg
1 of these: http://mcdn.toolking.com/catalog/product/1/1/11245evs_1_1.jpg

2 of these: http://www.finishcarpentryhelp.com/images/Bosch-Hammer-Drill.jpg

 

[CGT80]

I love made in USA Milwaukee tools. They rock. Most of the new stuff is made in China. You should be able to find the brushes, even if you have to open the case. I doubt that drill is overly complicated inside, other than maybe the hammer drill head portion (transmission section?). A continuity test could tell you if the armature is bad. I work on hair clippers and dog dryers for the family business and spent 17 years in the construction industry. I actually replaced the motor and case on my V28 Milwaukee cordless hammer drill earlier this year. It isn't that hard to do.

Milwaukee might have parts. There is a Milwaukee center in Anaheim, Ca.

I'll take it if you are going to junk it. Those new Bosch drills are pretty nice and I know from experience that they drill very quickly.