MK-24, "Tank" (Update: Gen V Build!) [Deleted]

[robster495]

robster495 submitted a new Build:

MK-24, "Tank"

View attachment 232453 Alrighty guys, I'm new to the forum and I don't have very much documentation of my build as of now but I will put up what I can! And will from now on!
To get started, he's a 90 Burb factory 1500. Body has 170k, 5.3 has 118k, trans has 90k.
LS Swap has been dyno'd and tuned.

Exterior:

I converted the brakes, axles, etc from a 2500 donor, and suspension from BDS 2.5in lift.
I recently finished my LS swap follwed by a 60e, whilst keeping my original np241c p-drop (woo!)
The axles are 3/4 8 lug 10b up front, and a 14bsf rear (for now)
My buddy and I built a gas tank skid-plate from some 1/4" plate and the factory k5 plate cut up a bit for mounting.
Future plans include: Cleaning up my wiring from swap, electric fan (BMW temp switch already in top hose), replacing my janky tinted rear windshield.

Interior:

It's pretty much 99% original, only change being the sound system and some work to the dash. I had to rewire the whole darn thing - from aftermarket head unit to each individual speaker (pics soon, promise!) - I hid everything pretty well. Other than that is is unmolested and I kinda plan on leaving it that way. The only mods I'm planning now are: Rear view cam to a small LCD in the sun visor (have everything), and mount my 10" tablet off my center console (GPS, media, OBD2 apps).

My biggest question is, now what?? This thing is my DD, and I plan on keeping the truck til I'm 6 feet under!
Every Summer I do a road trip to Colorado to visit my brothers, I live in Maryland. And trust me, they're both trying real hard to get me to move out there, and I probably will at some point.

Read more about this build here...

 

[CK5]

Nice, where did you source the 5.3 from?

 

[robster495]

Funny story, I sourced it from a guy in the middle of Ohio. I was currently in Colorado visiting my family and I saw someone on here did that kind of swap, so I got excited and did some research! I called the guy and said, "Hey sounds weird but I'm road tripping home through your town and want to buy that 5.3 you have."

And voila! The trans came from a parts truck near me in MD shortly after. I have some documentation on the swap and I'll get it all up soon. Along with current finished-swap pics as well.

 

[Ned Kelly]

Looks nice! More pics would be good.

How is the ride on the BDS suspension? What shocks are you using?

 

[robster495]

PIC DUMP!

Some exterior work shots, some interior.

Looks nice! More pics would be good.

How is the ride on the BDS suspension? What shocks are you using?

The ride is almost identical to stock since the only things replaced were the front springs, and shocks all around (From BDS to answer your Q). Lift in the rear are blocks, you can see in some pics.
We did take it on an RTI before and after the BDS lift and it helped a ton. I'll dig those pics up too!

I still have some swap cleaning to do as you can see from my engine bay lol. But I've also included pics of what I have going on, 5.3, 4l60e, etc.

The hubs are Mile Marker Heavy Duty, work like a charm. If I can dig some pics up, they got me through 3.5 feet of a snow dump we got in Baltimore last winter. Didn't get stuck once, and I was quite busy pulling friends out of their snowy dooms (Including a Baltimore City Plow Truck, lolol)

The inside is pretty much as clean as I want it to be. The carpet could be a little lighter but its mostly covered with the factory mats anyways and looks fine to me! My headboard fabric is falling down in many places, but staples help a lot there for now.
My third row is in the garage, I helped a friend move the other day, but I have it!

More pics to come as I find them! (Old phones, laptops, etc)

 

[82355]

Are you missing a bolt from the transmission into the oil pan, or is it just the shadow in the picture?

Martin

 

[robster495]

Are you missing a bolt from the transmission into the oil pan, or is it just the shadow in the picture?

Martin

You are right I am missing one haha. I had all the ones from my 700, but since the 60e has those additional bottom two I was only able to scrounge up one bolt that had the right threading. I'll hit Home Depot soon enough!
Thanks for catching that. With the pics I'm hoping some of you guys would spot things like that, things that I might've missed!

 

[82355]

Haha, you are welcome I guess.

Martin

 

[robster495]

Hey guys, so I think the next thing on my list is my axle swap in the rear. I have an AAM 11.5 out of a 2001 Duramax, SRW. I was reading on The Monkey Paw Build (I'm hoping he sees this or I'll PM him for insight), and saw that there's going to be some booster/MC work needed to make this thing stop correctly. I took a few pics of my proportioning valve, and it isn't like the one's I've seen before.

That second thing behind the valve, anyone know what it is? I also have a tab open on gmt400 about some module that can be deleted:

http://www.gmt400.com/threads/1990-c1500-abs-rwal-removal.11427/

I'm guessing that's my version of it? My other questions are:

I currently have a 4 opening prop valve.
If I delete that thing behind mine, do I need a 5 opening prop valve?
If I go 5 opening is it: Two dedicated to each front, and one to the back?
I know that I'll probably need the matching MC, but the reservoir is massive so any tips on clearing the hood? (Hoping for Monkey Paw to see!)
Any insight into fittings, adapters, etc??

My friend has plasma and weld, so relocating the perches will come later down the road once I know how all of this braking works!
TIA for any advice!

 

[AbramJ]

Monkey Paw sounds like you're looking for @JoshHefnerX

Great looking Suburban, I'm a big Suburban fan.

 

[robster495]

Monkey Paw sounds like you're looking for @JoshHefnerX

Great looking Suburban, I'm a big Suburban fan.

Nice thanks for the tag, I PMd him!
And thanks for the compliment, I love these things too. Ridiculously helpful in tons of ways. It would take me over a week to list my reasons when my friends ask, "why such a big old suburban, nah nah.." lol

 

[JoshHefnerX]

Just saw this. Not familiar w/ that brake system. That's quite different than what's on my older truck. Not sure if those can be 'gutted' or not. If not, you could still use one of the old style gutted valves but it would take some work on the brake lines. Have to split the rear - if you really have 4 separate lines at that point.

That box next to the mastercyl - that's not for some ABS is it? Not sure what the newer trucks had.

 

[robster495]

That box next to the mastercyl - that's not for some ABS is it? Not sure what the newer trucks had.

The electronics box is what I believe to be the ABS system, but I don't think it's in use anymore now that I've gone through with an LS swap (right?)
Monday I plan on removing that second valve thing behond my prop valve and seeing if that helps my current brakes set up. But I also have been reading your PM and I will respond soon in the morning (looooong day at work)!

What I currently have is a matching 3/4ton set of 8 lug axles from an '84 K20, rear drums, with a lot of pedal travel (only recently developed though)
I'm guessing the excess travel is because my prop valve is used to the 6 lug drum rears? I linked that gmt400 write up that I'm going to follow on Monday.

 

[robster495]

Alright guys, with a ton of help @JoshHefnerX , I'm leaning towards the late 80s P30 master cylinder that was setup for all discs:

https://m.advanceautoparts.com/p/wearever-master-cylinder-master-cylinder-domestic-10-1668/3830993-P

Next thing is the prop valve which I'll most likely need to be adjustable. So with some line work I'm gonna have to do anyways, I'm leaning towards this guy:

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/wi...s-v38_YmsDwY-PmBoxbBgjz1NkQpOp7AKExoCav_w_wcB

My brake booster is quite new so I will be keeping that, which is a direct replacement for my 90 burb. Hood clearance shouldn't be an issue with that MC either. Once I order all these guys in (I'm thinking mid/late June I'll have the dough), then I'll document the process.

If anyone has any kind of advice or other advising please feel free! I was telling Josh that anything involving the brakes fluid-wise scares me a little, but I think I can handle these swaps once the parts are in.

Stay tuned!

 

[nutt7]

Alright guys, with a ton of help @JoshHefnerX , I'm leaning towards the late 80s P30 master cylinder that was setup for all discs:

https://m.advanceautoparts.com/p/wearever-master-cylinder-master-cylinder-domestic-10-1668/3830993-P

Next thing is the prop valve which I'll most likely need to be adjustable. So with some line work I'm gonna have to do anyways, I'm leaning towards this guy:

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/wi...s-v38_YmsDwY-PmBoxbBgjz1NkQpOp7AKExoCav_w_wcB

My brake booster is quite new so I will be keeping that, which is a direct replacement for my 90 burb. Hood clearance shouldn't be an issue with that MC either. Once I order all these guys in (I'm thinking mid/late June I'll have the dough), then I'll document the process.

If anyone has any kind of advice or other advising please feel free! I was telling Josh that anything involving the brakes fluid-wise scares me a little, but I think I can handle these swaps once the parts are in.

Stay tuned!

Hey man, so I use that p30 disc disc mc, but I also have hydroboost, which it was made for. Hydroboost boosters have a different stroke than vacuum so try and find one that might be for vacuum, if possible.

There was a c30 (forgot the year range, late square or early obs with a d80) disc disc mc that I was looking at but I couldn't use it because my pilot hole on the booster was too small. Yours should be big enough so that's another option.

Also check out piratejack.com. They have a nice assortment of disc disc prop valves that are drop in affairs with gm. You can buy an external adjuster for them too, if you want.

 

[robster495]

Thanks for the info!! I'm searching around but the auto parts websites I've been to (so far) aren't giving me enough info to see if the c30 MC was disc/disc. But I'm still searching! I think now that you've mentioned that difference between hydro and vacuum, vacuum is the way I'll stay.

If I find a MC that is used to controlling rear brakes about the same size as my AAM 11.5, I would just need the regular prop valve instead of an adjustable, don't you think?

 

[nutt7]

That's what I did. Mine seems to work fine. I've never tested the brakes but it stops nicely.

 

[nutt7]

The one I was thinking of was from a 94 c3500HD. I would have used it but the pilot bore was bigger than my hydroboost's opening. its over 1.5"

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...215973_2863&pt=01292&ppt=C0066#itemDetailTab_

EDIT: also check what threads your current master has to be sure you don't need any adapters

 

[robster495]

Thanks for the link! I found one on amazon for a decent price, but I will go follow your advice on thread checking soon, I have some free time this weekend. Is that MC short enough to clear my hood you think?

In terms of lines I think I'm going to check out those pirate jack valves and do some new line work anyways. I was watching some YouTube videos on flaring lines yourself, didn't seem too bad.

EDIT: @nutt7 (and anyone for that matter), with that c3500 master cylinder, think a prop valve like this is what I need?

http://piratejack.net/gm-disc-disc-proportioning-valve-brass/

 

[nutt7]

I can't say for sure if it will clear your hood but it looks lower than the newer ones. If you are going to redo your lines, it shouldn't matter which valve you use. Maybe the one that's easiest to mount. Why are you going to redo the lines?