MaxPF
1/2 ton status
So, I finally got my 14bsf installed. There was nothing wrong with my 10b. It probably would have lasted a good long time since I don't generally beat the crap out of my stuff. However, the carriers in 10b's are known to be weak which means that putting a lunchbox locker in it is not a good idea. I figured that if I am going to spring for an ARB or E-locker I may as well put it is something beefier than a 10b. I didn't want to put in a 14bff - between it's low clearance and weight it would be like dragging an anchor with anything smaller than 38's. It would also mean converting to 8-lug, which is an added expense and more work. So, after a bit of looking around I finally scored a 14bsf with 3.73's. It came out of a 93 2WD, which means that the spring perches and shock mounts were in different locations. After a bit of 
, and 
I fixed that little problem. Here's a pic of the axle with the mounts relocated and half wirewheeled:
Here's a pic of the guts:
It's hard to tell without a pic of a 10b side-by-side, but the internals are much larger and beefier in the 14bsf. Here's what the carrier looks like next to a 10b carrier:
One cool thing is that gear setup for the 14bsf is a bit easier than a 10b. The backlash must still be set with a shim, but the preload is adjusted via a large spanner nut on the right side tube which is essentially similar to a 14bff. I don't know how many miles this particular rearend had on it, but the R&P had no discernable wear at all. The spiders had the normal broken-in appearance, with the hobbing marks still clearly visible (these marks make the gears look rough, but they're not damaged.. Apparently GM decided that grinding the spiders to a smooth finish was unnecessary since they move at extremely low RPM's, when they even move at all). Backlash was still in spec. The axle bearings were good, until my buddy managed to contaminate em with some grinding dust (don't ask how)
. No biggie - I would just pull em out and clean em. Unfortunately, the puller cocked on one of the bearings and broke the race . So I said "**** it and replaced both bearings (at $58 a pop ). Here's the new bearings and seals installed:
You can also see the new wheel cylinder installed in that pic. The axle shafts are beefy, of course:
Very beefy
I like the 14mm studs too. I'm probably going to replace my wimpy 7/16" studs on my front hubs with 14mm studs when I rebuild my front end next spring. The axle bearings are much larger than 10b bearings, as you may imagine:
I have a pretty big mitt (covered with POR-15 in this pic). The ID of that bearing is 1.700", and the OD is about 3". Each roller is roughly 1/2" in diameter. According to the SKF website, a similar (actually slightly smaller) bearing sported a continuous dynamic radial load rating of more than 13,000lbs. No wonder the original bearings and shafts showed no wear
. Here's the axle all painted up with POR-i5 and with the shafts installed:
cont...
, and I fixed that little problem. Here's a pic of the axle with the mounts relocated and half wirewheeled:
Here's a pic of the guts:
It's hard to tell without a pic of a 10b side-by-side, but the internals are much larger and beefier in the 14bsf. Here's what the carrier looks like next to a 10b carrier:
One cool thing is that gear setup for the 14bsf is a bit easier than a 10b. The backlash must still be set with a shim, but the preload is adjusted via a large spanner nut on the right side tube which is essentially similar to a 14bff. I don't know how many miles this particular rearend had on it, but the R&P had no discernable wear at all. The spiders had the normal broken-in appearance, with the hobbing marks still clearly visible (these marks make the gears look rough, but they're not damaged.. Apparently GM decided that grinding the spiders to a smooth finish was unnecessary since they move at extremely low RPM's, when they even move at all). Backlash was still in spec. The axle bearings were good, until my buddy managed to contaminate em with some grinding dust (don't ask how)
. No biggie - I would just pull em out and clean em. Unfortunately, the puller cocked on one of the bearings and broke the race . So I said "**** it and replaced both bearings (at $58 a pop ). Here's the new bearings and seals installed:
You can also see the new wheel cylinder installed in that pic. The axle shafts are beefy, of course:
Very beefy
I like the 14mm studs too. I'm probably going to replace my wimpy 7/16" studs on my front hubs with 14mm studs when I rebuild my front end next spring. The axle bearings are much larger than 10b bearings, as you may imagine:
I have a pretty big mitt (covered with POR-15 in this pic). The ID of that bearing is 1.700", and the OD is about 3". Each roller is roughly 1/2" in diameter. According to the SKF website, a similar (actually slightly smaller) bearing sported a continuous dynamic radial load rating of more than 13,000lbs. No wonder the original bearings and shafts showed no wear
. Here's the axle all painted up with POR-i5 and with the shafts installed:
cont...
accidentally cut through it with a die grinder 
. Other than that, that's it. I'm now officially rolling on 3/4 ton junk. WooHoo! 
. Anyway, the short answer is that when you do find one for a decent price, odds are it will be under a NBS truck, and likely a 2WD at that. I would suggest you get used to the idea of moving the perches if you want to swap one in. 
