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mmmmmmm 60

stockk5

stockk5

1/2 ton status
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Well yesterday i picked up my Dana 60, she isnt pretty, and pretty angry right now, but gonna be rebuilding it for a few months and then put it in the k5. So.. anyone have a driver side axle shaft and hub/rotor assembly for sale? And or advice on how to get those broken studs outta the axle housing?

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a big fraeking e-z out. how much you pay?
 
400, its set up with 4:56 gears already, thats my main reason for picking it up, matches my rear 60 gears.
 
damn... you're right, she ain't too pretty! lol! I wouldn't mess with those broken studs if an EZ out and a can of liquid wrench wont get them.. just strip the axle down and take just the housing to a good machine shop who can deal with it. Eventually there will be new studs in there that will be holding your front suspension together, unless you have your own time-tested stud-removal skillz, I'd leave it to a pro for safetys sake.

j
 
when using an e-z out of that size, you drilling a big hole...make sure to get it centered/ staight and because the hole is so big, it will weaker the studs grip on the housing, it should work...Just make sure you get one big enough to handle the job...
 
GM Parts Direct has complete rotor/hub assemblies for about $275 new. OEM Spicer axle shafts aren’t too bad cost wise, used 60 shafts are VERY hard to come by, and you need to make sure you get the non-necked down shafts.

On the studs, if you have access, the best solution I’ve found is to weld a nut on top. The intense rapid heat rise will shatter the brittle rust bond. Then when it cools enough to not ignite the lubricant, spray with a good penetrant to finish the cooling and it will usually come right out.
 
BadDog said:
GM Parts Direct has complete rotor/hub assemblies for about $275 new. OEM Spicer axle shafts aren’t too bad cost wise, used 60 shafts are VERY hard to come by, and you need to make sure you get the non-necked down shafts.

On the studs, if you have access, the best solution I’ve found is to weld a nut on top. The intense rapid heat rise will shatter the brittle rust bond. Then when it cools enough to not ignite the lubricant, spray with a good penetrant to finish the cooling and it will usually come right out.
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This would be the ideal way to do it but it doesnt look like hes got anything there to weld too...
 
removal of broken bolts/studs.

tools needed : 1 welder and nut of the same size as broken bolt/stud.

set nut over the broken bolt/stud and fill in with the welder and let cool just a bit so the heat will sink in and then remove just like a bolt.

some times you need to heat the area or go threw 2-3 nuts. works like a charm.
 
79k20350 said:
This would be the ideal way to do it but it doesnt look like hes got anything there to weld too...
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How can you tell? I can't see enough in the picture to be sure what he's got to work with, but I've done just as sweet suggests even when it's broken slightly below flush.

This is an old tried-and-true method. First time I saw this I was probably 12 years old and my Grandfather (career boilermaker) used it to get out a flush broken bolt. It wasn't very large and he did it with an old Lincoln tombstone welder, try welding inside a nut with a stick some time! :eek:
 
BadDog said:
How can you tell? I can't see enough in the picture to be sure what he's got to work with, but I've done just as sweet suggests even when it's broken slightly below flush.
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x2:confused: need better pics
 
here is a picture of the studs.. im gonna try drilling a lil and pb blasting them for quite some time.. then maybe easy out cuz my welder is broken right now. We'll see though, i still gotta clean it all off and such.

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What studs?! Man, I'm glad I live in AZ...

With all that rust, I bet you don't get it with an ez-out. But if the ez-out fails, you cans till weld a nut on and welding in the hole will help break it loose (just don't burn through!!! :eek:) when it cools and contracts. Me, I would clean it up nice with a knotted wire wheel followed by a flap disk, then find/borrow/fix a welder to do the nut trick. But good luck!

FWIW, I think I would also look into electrolytic bath for that housing. Man that thing is grungy.
 
FOR MUD said:
How long has it been sitting??
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haha, east coast, are you kidding?:p:

the undercarriage of my '69 GMC and my dad's '96 Ford look equally as rusty. I am pretty sure the rust onset is a couple of hours after these trucks roll off the assembly line. The dana 60 I got has more moss than rust on it, and yeah its a friggin mess inside and out.
 
BadDog said:
FWIW, I think I would also look into electrolytic bath for that housing. Man that thing is grungy.
Click to expand...

Mine looked all of that bad. looks great now, just need a wire wheel on my angle grinder and some time. it got EVERYTHING around it covered but it all comes off pretty easy.
 
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