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mobile 1, vs amsoil, vs other kind vs napa

I gotta side w/ Tim on the oil issue....
If you actually read your owners manual it cautions against running heavier oils. My T/A's manual even goes as far as giving you a temperature comparison between the recommended 5w-30 and heavier oils to convince you not to run the heavier stuff. Let’s just say if you reach the temp range where 5w-30 breaks down you would be SOL no matter what oil you were running. Heavier oils, however, take longer to reach components at start up due to its higher viscosity (defined by Webster as a fluids ability to resist flow). Creating resistance in your oil flow is probably not the way to go. Heavier oils do take longer to drain back to the oil pan, but they DO eventually drain back to the oil pan. And that couple seconds of delay it takes for your motor to pump that cold, thick 20w-50 or even 10w-40 is brutal.

Having said all that I used to tell everyone to run heavy oil as that’s what I was advised on many occasions. But after reading up and listing to some of the pros on this topic, no more heavy oil for me. I’d rather have a few subtle leaks or a little blow by (as long as it doesn’t smoke) then not have good oil circulation at start up.

If you want another reason to run thinner oil, look to the aviation industry. Multi-million dollar gas turbine engines (which reach temps exponentially higher than any reciprocal internal combustion engine) run extremely thin synthetic oil (like Mobil Jet II or Mil spec equivalent) with viscosity far less than 5w-30. Billions of dollars in research can’t be wrong. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif
 
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Maybe sustained high RPM operation. If it's synthetic there's especially no reason to run a heavier oil. 5W-30 still would have the heat protection that no conventiona could match, with the cold flow of 5W-30.

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Actually, Amsoil recomends a heavier weight like 20w50 for high stress vehicles even in synthetic.

"PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
AMSOIL High Performance Synthetic 20W-50 Motor Oil is specially formulated to provide superior protection and performance in the most demanding applications. It provides a wide range of protection in all four-cycle gasoline and diesel engines, including pickups, RVs, cars and off-highway vehicles and is ideal for use in high-stress vehicles subject to stop-and-go driving, short trips, high temperatures, frequent trailer pulling and off-road use."
 
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Maybe sustained high RPM operation. If it's synthetic there's especially no reason to run a heavier oil. 5W-30 still would have the heat protection that no conventiona could match, with the cold flow of 5W-30.

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Actually, Amsoil recomends a heavier weight like 20w50 for high stress vehicles even in synthetic.

"PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
AMSOIL High Performance Synthetic 20W-50 Motor Oil is specially formulated to provide superior protection and performance in the most demanding applications. It provides a wide range of protection in all four-cycle gasoline and diesel engines, including pickups, RVs, cars and off-highway vehicles and is ideal for use in high-stress vehicles subject to stop-and-go driving, short trips, high temperatures, frequent trailer pulling and off-road use."

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/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif I'm sure they've researched oil, but not as much as OEM.

OEM knows what oil works with your oil clearances. That's why they tell you NOT to run the heavy oil, for which there is NO benefit and lots of cons.
 
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/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif I'm sure they've researched oil, but not as much as OEM.

OEM knows what oil works with your oil clearances. That's why they tell you NOT to run the heavy oil, for which there is NO benefit and lots of cons.

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Amsoils whole business is oil. I bet the have just as much if not more research in oil than OEM. They're job is to make a better oil and your engine last longer. They offer longer change intervals because they feel their oil is of better quailty and they back it all up with research and a warranty....

I wouldn't be suprised if OEM goes to what oil manufacturer they are currently getting the best prices from and get a recomendation.
 
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Still looking for the picture. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif

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There you go.

Engine has a Melling M55HV in it, not exactly stock.
 
File not found

Well, the page you are looking for might have been removed, had it's name changed, or you simply can't type, luckily we have this nifty site map to help get you back on track
2636000_0643.JPG
 
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Amsoils whole business is oil. I bet the have just as much if not more research in oil than OEM. They're job is to make a better oil and your engine last longer. They offer longer change intervals because they feel their oil is of better quailty and they back it all up with research and a warranty....

I wouldn't be suprised if OEM goes to what oil manufacturer they are currently getting the best prices from and get a recomendation.

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I'm sure Amsoil is great oil and their research top notch. I just wouldn't run their 20w-50. Keep in mind they are in business make money. I suspect they made a 20w-50 to fill a demand because there are many people who don't buy synthetic oil because they aren't commonly offered in a heavier weight.

Most of this talk about heavier weight oils though is mostly for people who tend to neglect or have neglected their motors. If you change your oil at the recommended intervals I would just run a top shelf, none paraffin oil (like Valvoline, Havoline, or Castrol) in a 5w-30 or 10w-30 as suggested by the manufacturer. I stay away from paraffin (wax) oils like Quaker State and Pennzoil, although many people are perfectly satisfied with those oils. In high performance motors, I like the added insurance of good quality synthetic oil like Mobil 1 or other aforementioned “quality” brand’s synthetic (more expensive engine—more expensive oil). I don’t currently run synthetic in my Jimmy b/c it’s stock and I change the oil pretty frequently for fear of possible contamination from off-roading.
 
Pennzoil and Quaker State no longer use paraffin based base stocks. That's an old myth.

Valvoline buys their base stock from a different company every time.

Oil is oil. If it comes out of the ground and is marketed as conventional motor oil, it's all the same IMO.
 
I use napa oil in my truck sence my shop is a napa care.
I use amsoil 50:1 pre mix in my KTM300MXC and I was in shock what a differnce it makes on piston life compared to other brands like redline or castroll oil.
 
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Oil is oil. If it comes out of the ground and is marketed as conventional motor oil, it's all the same IMO.

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Oil IS NOT Oil! The additives are different, the detergents are different. Go ahead & run some Shell Rotella T in your truck, you will turn it into the biggest oil burner in the world, because it is a high detergent oil. High detergent oil will clean the sludge & etc. out of your engine, and it will start using high amounts of oil, especially if it has a ton of miles. So Tim, Oil IS NOT Oil!!!
 
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File not found

Well, the page you are looking for might have been removed, had it's name changed, or you simply can't type, luckily we have this nifty site map to help get you back on track
2636000_0643.JPG


[/ QUOTE ]I am going to get picky here, I see more guages next to that one, I would like your oil pressure guage, tach, and coolant temp guages all in one pic. Even then it would be easy to get around it. My guage reads 60 psi at idle if I let it just warm up in the driveway because the coolant warms up a lot faster than the oil.

Sorry Tim, It's not that I don't trust you....wait nevermind. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
 
I dont have a coolant temperature gauge. If steam isn't billowing out of it I don't care what the temp is. It broke years ago when I blew my 305 up and I have never fixed it.
 
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I dont have a coolant temperature gauge. If steam isn't billowing out of it I don't care what the temp is.

[/ QUOTE ] I should have applied that theory to my warm running tempatures about a year ago. /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif
 
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Oil IS NOT Oil! The additives are different, the detergents are different. Go ahead & run some Shell Rotella T in your truck, you will turn it into the biggest oil burner in the world, because it is a high detergent oil. High detergent oil will clean the sludge & etc. out of your engine, and it will start using high amounts of oil, especially if it has a ton of miles.

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I would tend to disagree here...
If the oil has the proper API rating for the engine, its good to use no matter who makes it. Many years ago, different oils did perform better than others. Synthetics were the best and cost a alot of $$$. Now days with all the studies that have been performed, I dont believe theres any reason to run synthetic unless your looking at 25,000 mile oil change intervals. Its the Viscosity rating that can cause you problems especially when it gets real cold (down around zero and below) you need an oil that will flow at cold startup thus low viscosity. A 20-50 wouldnt be the best choice. In the extreme hot, a 30W oil is pretty much all thats needed. A 40W has a little more benefit but unless your running extreme heat (or loose bearings), theres no reason for a 50W.

I had a 66 Chevy truck with a 283 that I ran "Straight 70W Valvoline" and still burned a quart of oil every 40 miles /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif Made the engine quiet.

As for Rotella-T, Delo-400, etc high detergent oils, if your relying on clogged passages and reduced lubrication to keep your engine from burning oil..you got bigger problems. My Blazer has over 200K on the engine. The previous owner ran Valvoline 10-40 from day one, I got it and ran 3 changes of Mobil-1 to clean it out (mineral based oils clean well) then switched to Delo-400 cuz I run that in my 5.9 Cummins and its also SJ rated for gas engines BUT they're NOT "Energy Conserving" rated.
I use no more oil after putting on an additional 50K plus miles since I got the truck (1 quart every 1500-2000mi) than it did with the previous owner. Cats, Cummins, Macs, IH all routinely put 1 million plus miles on their engines running high detergent, high temp rated 15-40W oil. The large scrapers, dozers, Marine trollers etc put tremendous loads on those oils and many hours cus the detergents keep them clean and they take the higher heat loads from the turbos without breaking down.

Now, I have noticed different oils of the same weight ratings will give different "hot" presure readings at idle. Dont know why that is but I have never toasted an engine from oil failure but I have heard of auto manufacturers voiding warranty on failed engines not because of the "Make" of the oil but for running a higher than recommended viscosity.
 
The additives are the same anyway.

The amounts very by tenths of a percent but the additive package itself is very similar.

Oil is oil.
 
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I dont have a coolant temperature gauge. If steam isn't billowing out of it I don't care what the temp is.

[/ QUOTE ] I should have applied that theory to my warm running tempatures about a year ago. /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif

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I don't know if I'd do that if I had a $3000+ motor.
 
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Oil is oil.

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Depending on the geographic location it was mined from, crude will have different levels of paraffin in them (its generally accepted oil mined from Pennsylvania, USA has higher paraffin concentration than others. Yeah... that’s Pennsylvania, The Quaker State ...

This is quote from a quick search on paraffin oil & Quaker State: "Quaker State and Pennzoil use as a base oil from Pennsylvania, which contains paraffin. They both at one time listed the paraffin on the side of the bottle."

And all refineries aren’t created equal. Even if Quaker Cake (Pennzoil) did began refining the wax out of their oil years ago I still stay away based on their history (how do you think it gat the common nickname "Quaker Cake"). It might be okay now, but I've never run it and I never will.

I’m dying to hear you refute this one….
 
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