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Modified / Custom Trans Tunnels - Show Us!

nvrenuf

Holy crap, it's running!
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With my t-case clocked up 2" the linkage on my 205 shift rails hit the floor, that plus there doesn't appear to be nearly enough clearance for a t-case e-brake I wouldn't mind overhauling the tunnel (not that I have any sheet metal skills). I'd really like to re-do the area from behind the removable tunnel to the end of the t-case. Anyone done anything like this? Pic whoring is recommended.
 
With my t-case clocked up 2" the linkage on my 205 shift rails hit the floor, that plus there doesn't appear to be nearly enough clearance for a t-case e-brake I wouldn't mind overhauling the tunnel (not that I have any sheet metal skills). I'd really like to re-do the area from behind the removable tunnel to the end of the t-case. Anyone done anything like this? Pic whoring is recommended.

Nothing to see here but I just blew this hole out this last weekend. I intend on making it easily removable but I may just start over with fresh sheetmetal. I'll share if I come up with something decent. I'm assuming you have shifters without cables? I'm using cables so its fairly low and out of the way.

20190901_212140.jpg
 
Nothing to see here but I just blew this hole out this last weekend. I intend on making it easily removable but I may just start over with fresh sheetmetal. I'll share if I come up with something decent. I'm assuming you have shifters without cables? I'm using cables so its fairly low and out of the way.

:thinking:

I'm also running JB Fab shifters, now that I'm looking at you're pic I'm thinking I have the shift rail pieces on the wrong rails. I assembled and adjusted mine all on the bench and then installed it during a thrashfest right before a wheeling trip so I didn't work all the shifter combinations - in the truck - until I was at the park. :doah:
 
The truck floors are a little different. I'm clocked flat with a 1" body lift, twin cases, cable shifters and clear fine (C20 Cab). I did however drop the humps down for lower seats.

IMG_0947.JPG
 
:thinking:

I'm also running JB Fab shifters, now that I'm looking at you're pic I'm thinking I have the shift rail pieces on the wrong rails. I assembled and adjusted mine all on the bench and then installed it during a thrashfest right before a wheeling trip so I didn't work all the shifter combinations - in the truck - until I was at the park. :doah:

Yeah I could barely figure out the orientation because the direction pictures were so damn dark.
 
I don’t have any pictures but ,on my 90 k5 I rebuilt the floor from behind the “removable” hump all the way back to the “Step-up” with some 1” square tube and aluminum diamond tread for the top . The sides I sheeted with some 3/16” it’s way over kill but it worked

Edit: it was my first real build that wasn’t all bolt ons .

AK57 rear , home brew 56” up front , one of the original doublers with a Hydro SM465 , CUCV 1-tons and 39.5 TSL .

DC14266D-DF68-4D94-B32C-4B0783531F09.jpeg
 
I think I have pics in my build thread. I cut a rather large hole.
 
Build it in smaller pieces so that you have a chance of removing some of it when all the stuff is in there. Basically so you don't have to remove the seats to take the lid off for instance. Mine (in wally) has walls and totally flat lids that screw to the top of the walls so it's relatively easy to slide the lid off sideways. The lids split around the shifters so you can bring them out the sides without having to go up over the handles.
Since the Wally build we pay less attention to the flat belly pan since it was a lot of work and didn't gain all that much on the trail. But even if all your stuff fits under the stock floor it's nice having access ports to work on the top of the drivetrain since we tend to skidplate everything making it even harder to work on from the bottom.
 
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