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Mods completed, poor performace issues!!!! HELP!

No dice on truck work tonight. /forums/images/icons/frown.gif MAYbe tomorrow night. Any more ideas? While we're waiting!
 
Find out what in the heck that transmission shudder is! I had the one in my '81 redone (lockup 350) and it worked fine for awhile and began to shudder right after the third shift when under a load. I've had my whole valve body apart and solenoid swapped too. The only theory I have left is that I knicked the seal on the end of the output shaft when sliding the covertor on. That will cause a leak and make it lock up to soon when it hits third gear (th350 that is). Thats what the guy who rebuilt it for me said. I haven't looked, but check if you slide the tranny back
 
Well something is jacked in your tranny or tv cable/valve. Personally if you can't get it, take it to a tranny shop and have them look at it. You wanna get that tranny swapped if it has woes, plus they will adjust the tv cable for ya for next to nothing.

I agree the O2 sounds like a good culprite here for the rest. It could be the fuel pump, but in my experience... when fuel pumps gop bad... only about 5% of the time it results in a driavability rather then a no start condition. I would possibly look at the injector resistence. Also check the pattern.
 
I know its possible, but this is a fresh tranny from TCI. Granted its been in my garage for close to a year, but its been wrapped up in the original plastic. The TBI could have some dirt and crap in there from all the grinding, sawing and other whirl wind mods I've been doing, while leaving the tbi un covered.
 
Also (for more detail) I had found that the TV cable wasn't holding its self in the bracket properly at the throttle body. I had to use a screwdriver to open the plastic ears up a bit. And now that I understadn the Tv cable a bit more I think I can get it right. However, I dont see how the TV cable adjustment is gonna effect the Lock up shudder problem. Except that the electronics have to see the correct amount of throttle change and transmission reaction in order to un lock the convertor and allow for more power. So In retro-spect I guess I can see the possible cause and effect.
Well if all goes well, I should have some time to play with all this tonight.
 
Yes, but the TV cable also controls the pressure, and without the right pressure you are gonna have problems. What does the fluid look like? Is it oxidized? darker then fresh tranny fluid... how does it smell and feel. If the TV cable was slipping out, you definetly need to make sure that is fixed. Also just having the tv cable out of adjustment can cause numerous tranny problems. Basically... if you are having problems, about all you have to shoot for is that TV cable adjustment. Anything else will require dropping the pan, possibley dropping the valve body or the whole trany to access the converter. All in all... options I'm sure you don't want to do.

One omore thing... what tranny fluid do you have in your tranny??? I know the 400 and 350 TCI trannys take Type F ford fluid and not the Dex III... just another thought.... double check the instruction from TCI.
 
The fluid is brand new. Just filled it up and started test driving it and playing with the TV cable. The fluid is bright red just like straight outta the bottle. I'll check into the fluid type. I used Dex III.
 
<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

It could be the fuel pump, but in my experience... when fuel pumps goes bad... only about 5% of the time it results in a driavability rather then a no start condition.

<hr></blockquote>

REALLY? I had an 88 EFI P/U that killed 3 pumps, and every time it was still drivable... it just lost lotza low end power... Not that I don't believe you, I'm just curious as to why mine never completely died...
 
Ok, lets take a step back for a minute.... Lets assume that I get the motor running "correctly" with what ever it takes.
Now with this RV/Tow torque convertor, is it really gonna make that much of a difference in take off power?
 
I guess I would say what brand of pumps were you using? It seems like cheap aftermarket stuff seems to have more issues with bad running the any factory/AC Delco pumps. Also was the fuel filter replaced along with the sock? Seen a lot of people have the problem you described and their sock is messed up

It has just been my observation... most were stock pumps... I'd say probably have done 100-200 pumps in the past 3 years or so.
 
If you have a converter problem, you can experience problems with take off. My philosophy is you know you have tranny issues going on... fix that since you KNOW it is a problem... then address the other problems. Get the sucker shifting like it should and then see what is left to fix. The O2 sensor problem could be a PIA to figure out without a scanner so might just be worth buying a heated one.
 
In reply to both posts. When I swapped out the tanks, I didn't mess with the pump or the sock. I hung the whole assembly up in the garage un-covered like the TBI (like a dumba$$) and put everything back together as is. Im replacing the sock and pump with Delco stuff tonight. Along with a new Bosch O2 single wire. I wasn't getting any codes on the dash, but it got banged around in the swap over several times and probably exposed to geases and other contaminants. SO Im changing it out just for "just cause" sake. Will also change the filter out too. Then I will try setting up the TV cable. FRom what TCI said, not having a part throttle or full throttle downshift points directly to not having enough pressure. So I will need to tighten the TV cable. And if Im understanding this correctly, that will mean depressing the tab adn pushing the sleeve back towards the firewall a few notches and trying it again. And re-adjust as needed. However, I do like the idea of getting a pressure guage and setting it that way. But I dont have a guage. Looks like a compression tester gauge would work. No?
 
The compression tester gauge would only work if it goes to around 500 lbs. /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif I think that the pressure port on a 700R4 is supposed to jump to over 300 psi at just off idle.
 
700r4.com says to use a 300 psi guage. So Figuratively speaking that should be good enough. the shift pressure ranges for the 700 chart I have dont show anything more than 300 adn thats for maximum in reverse.
Shows 185-230 for 1st, 185-230 for second. So 300 should be fine a?
 
But you never want to try to measure anything that ends up at either the very high or very low end of a pressure gauge. Most gauges are much more accurate in the mid-range of their sweep. So trying to measure 300 psi with a 0-300 psi gauge isn't a great idea, just as trying to measure 5 psi with a 0-300 psi isn't a good idea.
 
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