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Mog 404s

four_by_ken

four_by_ken

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jun 9, 2001
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Location
Allenton, MI
Ok, I may have the chance to get a set of 404 Mogs for a nice price.

I am thinking of buying them and working on them over time to get them under the Blazer. Since I just got mine set up as 1-ton now... I need to enjoy it before I do anything major to it.

But, just so I know... I would think brakes are obvious, go to pinion brakes probably.

But, what about front axle pig, which side?
The rear is not centered is it?

Anything else anyone knows about them I should know?
 
i just looked it up and from the mog im lookin at the front is on the driver side and the rear on the passenger. the big white chevy with the red exo that ran top truck challenge two years ago had them. sounds like a good deal. where are you from?
 
axles_Mog.jpg
Sweet!
 
Search for posts by "Blazr77400" both here and on Pirate, he has a running LWB Chevy with Mogs that is N-I-C-E. :deal: Also, I believe Greg72 is collecting parts for this conversion on his truck.
 
GET THEM!!!!

.....OK, I'm a bit biased. :D

I picked up a set of 404s for $1500/pr. Not bad at all considering that they come with factory selectable lockers from the factory and DEEEEP gears too. Clearance under the pumpkin is phenomenal, even with moderately sized tires. :thumb:

Problem areas:

Deep gears - 7.56 is both a blessing and a curse. Check out your highway RPMs with one of the online calculators to see what I mean
Drum brakes - Not the greatest and the lug pattern is an oddball non-Chevy deal.
Disc brake convo - Pricey and adds about 3" to each side. Your wheels will need to have about 7" offset to preserve Chevy-esque wheel track and ackerman angles.
Pinions - Looooooong, and proprietary. Conversion kits are relatively cheap and get you a more standard yoke-type flange.
Interference - Those high pumpkins may give you some headaches in the oilpan area, and the pumpkin up front is on the "wrong" side, so if you already bought Doubler parts you'll get to buy them AGAIN!!! (How do I know? :crazy: )

I can't say that 'Mogs are a simple decision (or conversion) but they are SOOO cool, that I just can't resist trying to make it work on my '69!!!
 
Greg72 said:
Problem areas:

Deep gears - 7.56 is both a blessing and a curse. Check out your highway RPMs with one of the online calculators to see what I mean
Drum brakes - Not the greatest and the lug pattern is an oddball non-Chevy deal.
Disc brake convo - Pricey and adds about 3" to each side. Your wheels will need to have about 7" offset to preserve Chevy-esque wheel track and ackerman angles.
Pinions - Looooooong, and proprietary. Conversion kits are relatively cheap and get you a more standard yoke-type flange.
Interference - Those high pumpkins may give you some headaches in the oilpan area, and the pumpkin up front is on the "wrong" side, so if you already bought Doubler parts you'll get to buy them AGAIN!!! (How do I know? :crazy: )
I can't say that 'Mogs are a simple decision (or conversion) but they are SOOO cool, that I just can't resist trying to make it work on my '69!!!
Click to expand...
Ok... deep gears... cool! (I liked that about them)
Highway RPMS.... :rotfl: I dont go over 55mph anyways.

I think they may be missing the drum brakes already. So, I was thinking about pinion brakes. $465 is just too much per wheel to go with Killer Axles brakes. Just to much money. And, I would still like to run my 15 inch wheels.

Pinions, I would convert for sure.

Interfearance... thats the problem. I am not going to do the doubler all over again. I know someone on Pirate has flipped it so that the pumpkin is on the correct side.

This is a trail only rig. Maybe to the local ice cream shop or something that si 5 miles away. and dirt roads 3 of that.

$1000... going to be hard to pass up. Said there is some things missing, and if I remember correctly, it was just the drum brakes.

And, cant you take a non steering axle and replace the outers to make it a steering axle. I friend with a buggy did this, I am pretty sure.
 
four_by_ken said:
And, cant you take a non steering axle and replace the outers to make it a steering axle. I friend with a buggy did this, I am pretty sure.
Click to expand...
You would have to change the axle shafts to get the c/v's.
The center sections and housings are the same front and rear. Just the axle shafts and knuckles. The portals are the same front and rear, but they are different left to right.
 
the mog axles, i find very interesting. seems like a KILLER set up if you have enough resources($$$), and done right. i would love to use them on another truck
 
Strength wise, I would say they are a step up from a 14 bolt and 2 steps up from a full 35 spline dana 60. They are a 1/2 to 1 step above a dana 60 with CTM's and alloy axleshafts.
The mog axleshafts are already a high grade steel, not sure the classification as its european. At least a 4140 grade though.
Also, the portals help reduce the stress on axleshafts and the ring and pinion. The axleshaft the hub presses onto is around 3 inches in diameter, and its also hollow so the hub bolt can go through it.:truck:
 
Ken,

Let me know if you want the drum brakes off mine. I'm not sure how long it will take me to start my disc brake swap, but those drums will just get thrown away once I do.

Also, I have the name of a good Unimog importer who can set both of us up with any/all of the needed rebuild parts (seals, bearings, etc) for the 404s.


Something to keep in mind.
:xmas:
 
I found out that it needs front u-joints and one of the drums needs hardware and a backing plate.

Decisions... decisions.

:crazy:
 
Greg72 said:
Deep gears - 7.56 is both a blessing and a curse. Check out your highway RPMs with one of the online calculators to see what I mean
Click to expand...
Sounds like highway gears!
My axles are stamped 9.3:1 ratio:eek: .
 
yeah an you drive a tractor dan, i am sure it has something to do with it.

i say hell yeah grap them if you got the cash even if you deside not to use them sell them off to someone who dose
 
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