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Montana 1980 K5 Jimmy Build

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Brandon Foster

Brandon Foster

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Apr 3, 2016
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Location
Bozeman MT
Brandon Foster submitted a new Build:

Montana 1980 K5 Jimmy Build

Let me just start by saying that this forum is absolutely top notch and you guys have been a fabulous resource for a first-timer. I figured it was time to give back to the community and post our story in case it helps someone else.

Earlier this year my two oldest sons (10 and 6) and I decided we wanted to restore an old Blazer/Jimmy as a family fun wagon and eventually a vehicle for the boys to drive when they are in high school. We found a 1980 K5 Jimmy in Roy Montana that was equipped with the typical 5.7L/TH350/NP05. Body and interior were pretty rough, but we were in it for the long game! In April we started the tear down for a full frame-off restoration. The progress and vision (thus far);
  • 5.3L LS swap from BD Turnkey (out of 2004 Yukon)
  • 4L60e - felt like we needed overdrive since it will see some highway miles
  • 4" Tough Country suspension lift
  • 35" BFGs
  • Rebuilt 10 bolt front / 12 bolt rear with 4:56 and Detroit TruTrac - I know some of you hardcore offroad guys will scoff at the 10/12 bolt, but this isn't intended to be an apocalypse rig. However, we did replace the rear axle shafts with Yukon chromoly since the old ones were pitted out.
  • New bushings, body mounts, etc.
  • SSBC rear disc brake upgrade
  • Replacing upgrading other assorted components (power steering box, MC/booster, combination valve, new brake lines, fuel lines, wiring harness, Vintage Air, etc.)
  • New hood, fenders, quarters, tailgate, bumpers, etc.
The cab and bed are currently off at the blasters this week. Next week I hope to lay down a coat of epoxy on the blasted parts, followed by welding in rockers, filler, etc. I suspect it may take a month or two of high-build primer and blocking sessions before getting some paint laid down before winter. This project has been a ton of fun. The boys and I are learning a lot, but I was a bit naive with regards to the time and cost involved with a project like this. The wife calls it my "mistress", but something tells me that an actual mistress would be much more expensive in the long run!

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Read more about this build here...
 
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I haven't done what you've done buy my wife calls it the $12,000 dollar "$3500" rig. Regardless of the money put into it, it will always be worth $3500!

Nice work and good job with your boys. I have 3 girls so a little harder to get them in the garage!
 
Just curious, is the transfer case in the picture the one that came in the truck from the factory? Did the 4L60E bolt up to it without any kind of adapter? Did the transfer case stay in its original location or did it move up or back? The reason I ask is that I put a 5.3 Vortec in front of my factory 700R4 because I was afraid I'd get into all kinds of issues like adapter plates, shortening or lengthening drive shafts, etc. I'd really like to hear more about your installation and if it shifted any parts around.

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Great questions. Yes, the transfer case is the original NP205. In order to mate the 4L60e to the NP205 I needed an adapter kit from Advanced Adapters (item #50-5310), which was not cheap (around $770). The trans cross-member stayed in the stock location. The longer 4L60e (compared to the TH350) pushed the engine forward a bit, but I used Dirty Dingo adjustable motor mounts to compensate. One thing I didn't plan for was the fact that the Advanced Adapters plate pushes the transfer case back a bit (around 5/8" if I recall). This, combined with the 4" lift, resulted in the front drive shaft becoming too short to reach the front diff (even at full stroke), so I had to have a new tube cut. This wasn't that big of a deal, as we have a great drive-line shop locally. The old shafts (front and rear) were pretty banged up, so they were due for an overhaul and balancing anyway. One other thing to be aware of - I discovered clearance issues on the oil pan (even though it came with a Holly low-profile upgrade) and AC compressor the first time we tried to drop the engine in. I ended up having to cut out the original cross-member and replace with the ORD High Clearance (Big Block style) cross-member (another $210 I didn't plan on). Went ahead and did the steering box brace while I was at it.
 
Nice build someday I'm sure I will be doing the same with my four boys. I've never seen a k5 body split in half like that.
 
Yeah, I didn't want to have to do that but the quarters were in such rough shape I figured I would spend less time cutting the old one out and welding the new ones in than I would doing patch panels. Another plus was that it made replacement of the rotted out bed sections easier to repair without having to navigate around the quarters.IMG_4230.JPG
Truckman4life said:
Nice build someday I'm sure I will be doing the same with my four boys. I've never seen a k5 body split in half like that.
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MTChevy said:
Diggin it! Which shop did the driveline? I am struggling with shops in great falls
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Tom over at Power Train Plus in Belgrade is fantastic. Probably a bit too much of a hike from Great Falls, unless you're down here anyway.

I originally took him my rear driveshaft (before I discovered the issue with the front, and before I had the motor in) to put a new yoke on one end. He asked me about the project and questioned whether or not the shaft was currently the correct length due to the lift. I told him it was perfect and to just go ahead and just replace the yoke. Sure enough, everything changed once I dropped the motor in and now I have a drive shaft that is too short (you can actually see the slip yoke sticking out too far in one of the pics). Lesson learned? Listen to the guys that know what they are doing...
 
Nice build. I am hoping I can get my son involved when I get started on mine. I know my daughter will be out there with me. What is your plan for the exhaust?
 
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