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More ball-joint Qs. Are Napa Ball-Joints good?

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Blazer79

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I need your help again.

I recently went over a large rock at 45mph (it was either that or the wall or the car besides me). Battery fell, the wheel bent slightly (amazing how good these wheels are), and my steering wheel is 90deg off center.

After checking everything, I also discovered that my ball-joints are bad. The worst thing is that not only the impact side, but both sides!! Can the other side be damaged from that impact too?

Anyway I found TRWs and Moog as Grim-Reaper recommends, but the NAPA "Master Ride" are the least expensive ones. Should I go with these? or are they bad?

Thanks for your help.

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About 2-3 years ago I replaced everything on the front of my Blazer with Napa Parts. I haven't had a problem, for the most part, they are still pretty tight. I keep them well greased. But, next time, I'm planning on using a differen't manufacture. The main complaint I have is with the ball joints. They don't have very good grease points. As a matter of fact, you have to pull the hub assembly apart, and remove the axles to lube the upper ball joints. The rears you even have to remove the tire, and the plug, install the zurk's and then reverse the process to beable to drive it. Quite a pain in the butt.

That is my only complaint about them. Best of luck & I strongly suggest getting something with a warranty.

As far as damaging something on the other side, take into consideration, they are all linked together, thats how both tires turn together. I'm sure it could cause some sort of damage.

Corey
88K5

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I bought a napa set on one side and Moog on the othe moog has grease zirc fitting angled back on the top ball joint you install it after its pressed in place the napa well you have to pull the axle.

88k5 silverado w4"lift soon to have <font color=orange>d44 and corp14ff</font color=orange> with 4.56s
 
FWP has the right idea about the 90 deg zerk on the upper joint. Dont use the 45 deg zerk that is with the NAPA joint- you will have to pull the axle to put it in, but with the 90 degree zerk you can insert it into the bottom of the ball joint with a little patience and not have to remove the axle- I have done this many times. Just be sure to take the zerk back out when your done because even the 90 wont clear the u-joint in the axle.

Casey 86K5
-'86 Chevy K-5
-'85 Oldsmobile Cutlass
-'79 Camaro Z-28
-'79 Chevy C-10
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Does the Moog fitting clear the U-joint so I can leave it on? Or do I have to install it and remove it everytime I grease the balljoint?

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Well I don't know if my ball joints are different, but mine will hardly fit a piece of paper between the u-joint and the ball joint. So I know either a 90, 45 or any zurk won't fit.

Corey
88K5

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The moog ones i bought have the zerk at the outer area thats right below the circlip ring on the bottom one so it isnt close at all to the u,joint

88k5 silverado w4"lift soon to have <font color=orange>d44 and corp14ff</font color=orange> with 4.56s
 
If anyone finds this thread, I have to also agree the napa ball joints are a pain to grease. I should have checked them before installing them. They put the grease fitting in the wrong spot.
 
Blazer79 said:
Does the Moog fitting clear the U-joint so I can leave it on? Or do I have to install it and remove it everytime I grease the balljoint?

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For the 10b, the Moog lower zerk is dead center on the bottom. The upper has the zerk on the taper transition from the flat bottom to the press-fit barrel. So you have to pay attention to the pointing of the zerk hole. You have to clock it to where you can grease it, as you are positioning for the press/install. Zerk screws in after.
Now that I'm on TT for this thread, I'll try to get a pic tomorrow.
Ask the Moog dealer to bring one to the counter.:D
 
thy thread I resurrect!

Does anyone have a part number of the moog ball joint with the zerk on the outer edge? This is for the GM 10 bolt.

Nevermind i found it.


BACK TO THE DEPTHS FROM WHICH YOU CAME THREAD!:haha::haha::haha:
 
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