So the interior paint project on my 73 continues. Gravity feed HF purple gun has worked pretty good and I think tomorrow morning will be the last coat of color. Question now is whether I need to clearcoat it. I am so ready to be done, get it put back together and start driving it again but if it is going to chip badly, right away with no clearcoat, I'll suck it up and clearcoat it Remember we are only talking about the interior. So am I being dumb not clearcoating it?
CK5
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More Paint - Clearcoat?
- Thread starter aceroth
- Start date
rampage
3/4 ton status
Depends on the paint you used, single stage or base coat/clear coat.
Can says "acrylic urethane basecoat." Pretty sure I told the guy I did not want to eff around with clearcoat. Also pretty sure he figured out I was an idiot and he could have sold me house paint for all I would have known . . .
You need clear coat to protect the base coat. It is soft and scratches really easy.
2 minimum. First coat is light to be used as a tack coat. Then a normal coat.
is it a metallic?
So I put about 12 oz of clear on tonight. Mixed 4:1 with hardener. Had a hard time getting it to come out of the gun. Same purple gravity feed HFT gun, same 6 gallon compressor that I used with decent success for the hi build and the color. Gun internals were really gummed up when I went to clean them. Any idea what's up? Is the clear thicker and the compressor can't get it done? Did the hardener reduce pot time to the point where it was gumming up the gun? I let it sit for 30 mins between "coats" with clear in the gun which I don't usually do but guy at the paint store said was fine. Is temperature messing it up? It is probably 40 degrees in my garage.
Not supposed to paint under 45 degrees is what I know
also, if you are going to have that long a flash time, pour the paint out into a container between coats, and run some thinner thru the gun.. than reload, before you put the next coat on... different paints, base vs clear vs single stage vs epoxy, can flash film gun internals quicker than others...
generally flash times are fast for a first coat, like 10 to 15 min if that, and longer as coats go on and it gets thicker. in reasonable temps
lightly tap a masked area next to it, if you make a fingerprint and don't get much paint on your finger, you're good to go... but it also has to do with how much orangepeel you're willing to live with and such...
generally flash times are fast for a first coat, like 10 to 15 min if that, and longer as coats go on and it gets thicker. in reasonable temps
lightly tap a masked area next to it, if you make a fingerprint and don't get much paint on your finger, you're good to go... but it also has to do with how much orangepeel you're willing to live with and such...
oh, and if you weren't getting paint to come out of the gun properly, it doesn't have anything to do with the temp, or your lack of air (being it had enough to shoot base, etc) it strictly has to do with the gun functioning properly, and the viscosity of the material.. end of story... make sure you disassemble and clean after every use.. long flash times, etc will allow material to build in them.. even if running thinner thru them after, unless you have a gun washing machine... it needs that mechanical "hit" of a brush, etc to get that last bit off...
THE biggest culprits to guns having trouble moving material are viscosity and CLOGGED lid vents.. I can't tell how many people I see have that problem with vents... a poorman's viscosity test is about 5 or 6 count till it stops dripping off a paint stick... when you get up around 8, 9, 10, the gun will have problems pushing it thru, too thick...
I hope you don't plan to paint a whole vehicle with a 6 gal, ain't gonna happen.. and the reason I asked you about metallic was cuz 99% of metallic these days is done in base/clear... for good reason....
THE biggest culprits to guns having trouble moving material are viscosity and CLOGGED lid vents.. I can't tell how many people I see have that problem with vents... a poorman's viscosity test is about 5 or 6 count till it stops dripping off a paint stick... when you get up around 8, 9, 10, the gun will have problems pushing it thru, too thick...
I hope you don't plan to paint a whole vehicle with a 6 gal, ain't gonna happen.. and the reason I asked you about metallic was cuz 99% of metallic these days is done in base/clear... for good reason....
T
tenderfoot
Guest
What do you thin clear with?
depends on the clear, poly? enamel? yada.. but, whatever the corresponding reducer is for that manny's paint line... any catalyzed car paint will generally have a reducer... some stuff calls for no reducer, like Imron, but they do make it.. can you mix brands? sometimes... usually best to stick with what they call for, reducer is cheap... whereas an air-dried product, like a rustoleum is a bit more forgiving, mineral spirits usually, but I've seen people get away with all kinds of stuff in rusto...
oh, it also usually comes in a fast, med and slow for temp ranges...
