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More random questions...

pblaze725

pblaze725

build bash rebuild
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1) Do you guys have insulation under the hood?
A- Is it for fire rating, or sound dampening, both or some other reason?
B- Does it restrict my carburetors breathing?

I am thinking about removing it but I thought I would check you guys first.


2) Drag link question

I recently installed a drop pitman arm, PS pump and gear box. When I drove it straight down the road the steering wheel was at 9:00. I adjusted my drag link in as far as I could and the closest to center I could get was about 10:30.
I thought about grinding the end of the link so I can adjust in more but imagining I would damage the threads I chose not to.
I went wheelin a few weeks ago and was a little rough on it.
Now when I drive straight down the road my steering wheel is at 2:00.

A- Should I just simply adjust the link out until the steering wheel is centered?

B- Is this a symptom of a much bigger problem?

Note- It feels normal when I drive it. I just don't get why the steering wheel went from 10:30 to 2:00 in 1 weekend.
 
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personally I would leave the under hood insulation, Not sure what it is for but I think the paint would last longer on your hood.

Did you adjust the the drag link with the steering wheel unlocked (key turned)?
 
The paint on my hood is shot. I have a rattle can camo.

Yes- I adjusted the link with the steering wheel unlocked. I followed the instructions that came with the pitman arm to a T.
 
pblaze725 said:
1) Do you guys have insulation under the hood?
A- Is it for fire rating, or sound dampening, both or some other reason?
B- Does it restrict my carburetors breathing?

I am thinking about removing it but I thought I would check you guys first.
Click to expand...
Yes, mine is intact (1991).

A: To protect the paint on your hood.
B: Not even remotely close.

If you are worried about performance, run a cold air intake that draws in air to your air cleaner element from OUTSIDE the engine compartment, like the TBI trucks have. If you draw in hot air from on top of the engine, such as with an open air cleaner element, you're robbing yourself of a small amount of power and efficiency. Engines like COOL air.
 
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If I remember correctly it only takes 1/4 turn to 1/2 turn to spin the steering wheel a lot. Hopefully some one else could explain the steering issue moving after adjusting. I am not sure what else the insulation under the hood would be for.
 
I removed my insulation a long time ago and it didn't make a difference. I believe it's intended use is to protect the paint on the hood and to quiet engine noise. The niose the engine makes reverberates through the hood a little bit, removing it makes it a little noisier but not noticeably imo.
 
Jessie James said:
Yes, mine is intact (199).

A: To protect the paint on your hood.
B: Not even remotely close.

If you are worried about performance, run a cold air intake that draws in air to your air cleaner element from OUTSIDE the engine compartment, like the TBI trucks have. If you draw in hot air from on top of the engine, such as with an open air cleaner element, you're robbing yourself of a small amount of power and efficiency. Engines like COOL air.
Click to expand...
this is what i was gona say.if the insulation is there and intact id leave it.it does make a difference in the sounds of the hood flexing over bumps and engine noise.if you have a fire,i believe it is also a fire retardent to help keep flames under hood as well.
 
If your gonna wheel it, pull the insulation, traps dirt and moisture. If your rig is a street queen then it's up to you to pull it or not.

I never had an old Chevy with that insulation until I bought my K5 and it didn't take long to get dirty playing in mud. I didn't notice a difference, performance or noise. :dunno:
 
Polski-Chevy said:
If your gonna wheel it, pull the insulation, traps dirt and moisture. If your rig is a street queen then it's up to you to pull it or not.

I never had an old Chevy with that insulation until I bought my K5 and it didn't take long to get dirty playing in mud. I didn't notice a difference, performance or noise. :dunno:
Click to expand...


X2... It will get muddy and wet up here... Nobody leaves them on...
 
I had to shorten my drag link to make it just right. Cut it with a cut-off wheel and then wire wheel it threads will be fine.I had to take a little bit off of each end. It's easy, just like having to shorten a bolt to make it custom length or you just needed a shorter one and had to size it yourself.
 
Take that hairy crap off....

As for the draglink...cant you just take the wheel off and re center it... that is if your draglink is adjusted right.
 
More random questions

Thanks for the responses.
Next-

Oil pressure sending unit & gauge.

My rig used to have a 6.2 diesel but the PO dropped a SB in there. I still have the original gauges but pulled some from the junkyard too.
I noticed some Oil sending units and gauges are 80 PSI, others are 60 PSI.


Which one would work best for the SB 305?
Where are the sending units typically located?

I think on the SB it was right next to the dizzy but I can't see to make it fit properly at that location. Is there an alternate location that may work better?
 
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