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More recent model 14 bolts with disc brakes

rpcraft

rpcraft

1/2 ton status
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May 28, 2016
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Location
Dallas
Anyone have any advice to offer on the later model 14 bolts that already have setups for rear disc brakes? I know it would take changing the axle perches and messing with the proportioning valve on a K5 to put it under but I'm curious to know what experience someone may have with it or if its really been done much? I'm kind of looking around for options to get into 3.73 gears and a locker but also figure if I stumble across the right deal it might be doable?

I saw this unit from a 1999 - 2006 2500 truck...

http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/5845328868.html

00s0s_5RW5rOYD2tn_600x450.jpg
 
I just put one of the disc 14b in my k5. Had to move perches and shock mount as expected. They have an e-brake with factory parts and are common with 4.10 gears in 6.0L work trucks. It is also refered to as the AAM 10.5. The duramax got the AAM 11.5 which is not compatible with 14b stuff. You can get the G80 or the open carrier will take the standard Detroit locker for any 14b. The Detroit will not fit in the G80 carrier so you have to decide which you want. I think they are a great axle and I only paid $200 for mine. Costs all most that much to convert an older one to discs and then you still need to sort out an e-brake.
If you really want 3.73 gears it's hard to beat $150 on CL. I would grab that axle right away.
 
that's what i'm going to do if my 14bff ever fails running my 46" ags... my ring and pinion isn't looking too healthy the last time i checked. I've been keeping my eye out for a newer one with disks and 4.10's
 
Blew my wad on a Trans this week so its kinda tough to part with more cash right now but I have a little spare cash with which to do so and might contact this fellow. Does seem like a good deal and I gotta drive past Waco to head down to Austin on Sunday for the week so maybe I will splurge. I think I will keep an eye on it and if they still have it next Friday (payday) I might go ahead and grab it on the way back from Austin, lol.
 
I wish this was an option when I put an older 14blt in my 94 Sub. The e-disc brake kit from High Angle is $700+ plus the cost of converting from drum to disc. Late model is the way to go.
 
You guys are making me dig through the gadget close to find something to sell now. I got some Gaerne Adv boots that should fetch a good price, more than enough to get this axle... LOL
 
If I understood what RPCraft was asking in the beginning about the brakes and proportioning valve, in the different upper NASCAR Series there's a proportioning valve that the drivers can adjust while driving so that they can change the load on the front/rear axles to improve cornering. I don't know who or where to get one, but that should be easy enough to run down. They might even use them in the lower series too.

I hope this helps, Paul
 
I was just curious as to the operation of e-brakes and such, compared to how some of the diy disc brakes kits I have seen previously did not have proper provision for an emergency brake. My thought process being that I wouldn't mind the upgraded axle and the disc brakes so long as I could hook them up like on any other drum conversion. The plan for my Jimmy is street legal first and most any place checks your e-brake for inspection is why. I knew the 14 bolt with drums worked out, just was unsure of one like the linked unit. As far as proportioning valves go, yes, you are correct, there is a dial on valve and essentially it has a knob on it. I'll probably avoid running it inside because its one of those things you adjust a little bit until you get it right and then you just leave it alone (and mark it will so in case someone screws it up by accident you can go back to where you started.
 
Inline tube has a bolt on factory prop valve that you can simply replace the factory one on the front cross member for rear disk brakes.
I have an 03 2500 14b with factory disks in my 79.
 
Oop's, Sorry that I misunderstood what you wanted to accomplish. I went back and re-read it and think that I understand what you're asking better. I need to read slower so my brain can keep up better. The only thing that comes to my mind is : how much difference is there in fluid volume (pressure) between the 2. As far as the E-brake thing, I've never messed with them much. They work or don't for some reason. We stopped doing vehicle inspections probably 35 years ago. The last one that I remember having to get was in my later teens or early 20's.

Good luck on your modification and hope it works good for you, Paul
 
scpaul said:
Oop's, Sorry that I misunderstood what you wanted to accomplish. I went back and re-read it and think that I understand what you're asking better. I need to read slower so my brain can keep up better. The only thing that comes to my mind is : how much difference is there in fluid volume (pressure) between the 2. As far as the E-brake thing, I've never messed with them much. They work or don't for some reason. We stopped doing vehicle inspections probably 35 years ago. The last one that I remember having to get was in my later teens or early 20's.

Good luck on your modification and hope it works good for you, Paul
Click to expand...

Disc brakes take more fluid to operate, definitely. Thanks
 
beags86 said:
Inline tube has a bolt on factory prop valve that you can simply replace the factory one on the front cross member for rear disk brakes.
I have an 03 2500 14b with factory disks in my 79.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip!
 
Put one in from an 03 2500 6.0. Yoke on mine was a 1410 - had to buy a new shaft, but the e-brake was pretty simple. Cut the sheathing and shortened the cables. Fed them up into the factory brackets. MC swap was to the matching 03 2500 and the larger jb9 brakes up front. Used one of the 'gutted' combo valves. Balances out well. More info in my build thread.
 
JoshHefnerX said:
Put one in from an 03 2500 6.0. Yoke on mine was a 1410 - had to buy a new shaft, but the e-brake was pretty simple. Cut the sheathing and shortened the cables. Fed them up into the factory brackets. MC swap was to the matching 03 2500 and the larger jb9 brakes up front. Used one of the 'gutted' combo valves. Balances out well. More info in my build thread.
Click to expand...

Thanks sir. I'll read up on it. There's so many great build threads and some of hem are so many posted pages it's hard to go back and catch up, lol.
 
beags86 said:
Inline tube has a bolt on factory prop valve that you can simply replace the factory one on the front cross member for rear disk brakes.
I have an 03 2500 14b with factory disks in my 79.
Click to expand...

Do you have a link to this? I also swapped in the late model 10.5 and have been running a factory c10 prop valve and even though it stops I think it could use a bit more.
 
beags86 said:
Finally got off my duff and placed my order with Inline Tube, just wanted to make a quick review/note.
I talked with Chuck over there and he was super helpful with my order. Ordered up the stainless kit along with a new proportioning valve I'll need for the rear disk brakes I have in the back. FYI to all: They have the Factory style prop valves that replace the factory ones one the frame( for discs). Chuck was every knowledgeable about his products and very helpful. Shipping was 16 bucks, so that was reasonable as well. So far so good.
Click to expand...

https://ck5.com/forums/threads/stainless-steel-brake-lines-kit.328059/
 
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