more steering arm help!!!

[Confederate9]

ok ok ok, ive done the search but cant find an answer to it. ok well i have one bout getting off my steering arm off. everythign is off, but those 3 bolts where the knuckle housing is WONT come off.
i need help on what you guys did and what works well asap please!!!!

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<font color=red>K5: Because size DOES matter</font color=red>

 

[ftn96]

SOAK the [censored] out of them with PB Blaster for a couple of days. Then you have to beat DOWN on the steering arm, not up, adn genereally the cone washers will start to work themselves loose. You may have to hit it from the side a couple of times as well. But DO NOT hit up on it.

ALSO, DO NOT HIT the studs!!!!!!!!

Steve Fox for President, 2004.
Jimi Hendrix was re-incarnated in 1990 as my....JIMI
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[tori89k5]

I loosened up the nuts just a bit, then drove on it for a day, that worked for me..... but if think thats too dangerous, then get some nuts that fit the threaded stud, and double nut it, then just turn them out with your wrench.

New '90 K5 sitting in my driveway !!! YIPPPIEE !!

 

[thatK30guy]

If you REALLY need to get these 3 studs out, and you are NOT reusing them, get the nuts and weld them to the stud. Let them cool off and get an impact gun. Back the studs out with the impact and VOILA!!! They should be out then. (hopefully!)

<font color=red>I m so we Todd did.
I m sofa king we Todd did.</font color=red>

 

[84_Chevy_K10]

You can actually remove those studs?

Avoid torch usage! It ruins balljoints!

Tim
'84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles

 

[jimmyjack]

Tear them up, they cost about 2 bucks apiece to replace!

"My blazer may be slow, but it goes faster at higher speeds"

Jim

 

[thatK30guy]

Yep, those studs can be removed safely, too!!

When I said to weld the nuts to the studs, you should use an arc welder since it will transfer the heat down to the threads in the knuckles. But it wont be too much heat. Just enough to heat them up and break loose with the impact gun. Try it. Its easier done than said!!

<font color=red>I m so we Todd did.
I m sofa king we Todd did.</font color=red>

 

[84_Chevy_K10]

Never had to tear them up. I've usually destroyed the upper balljoint heating it up though.

If I ever had to do it again, I'd take the axle off, take the nuts off, and beat it repeatedly with a sledge hammer, never using the torch.

When I did it last week it was easy since it was just apart about 6 months ago.

Tim
'84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles

 

[lehtola]

Here is a trick I did...and it actually worked...if anyone noticed...the cone washers are threaded...take a scroll (screwdrivers work too) and stick it in the slot on the washer and tap it so that it begins to turn. The reason you can't just pull the steering arm off once you have the nuts off is because those darned cone washers need to be turned just like a nut. Granted there are only about 2 or 3 threads on it but it sure is a heck of a lot easier to loosen them up instead of beating your steering arm into submission (not to mention easier on your forearms). I can't remember if they are left or right handed threads though. Hope this helps and that I got you in time before you beat yourself silly.

1990 GMC Jimmy 350/TH700R4/NP241/10 bolts, 4" skyjacker lift, 35x12.50R15 BFG All Terrains on 15x10 AR Baja's, Flowmasters.

 

[Burt4x4]

You can buy a socket to fit into thoes little cut outs to turn out the tapered sleaves. I forget the name of the socket but found one at a local parts house.

72K5

Led Zeppelin

Rock ON!

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