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More stereo/electric Q's - Wire gauges, inline fuses, and fuse taps

AJMBLAZER

AJMBLAZER

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The radio I ordered isn't anything special and it's just driving some decent 3.5's and 6.5's. No amps or subs. I'm also putting in a cigarette lighter at the same time.
Radio
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-hsmVS23UEQ4/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=070XDM6830

3.5's
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-hsmVS23UEQ4/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=023GTX352

6.5's
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-hsmVS23UEQ4/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=113KFC1661

I'd like to buy some wire for this that can be used to run the two power wires to the fuse box, the speaker wires, the powered antenna, and the cig lighter.
What gauge wire should I use?

Do I need an inline fuse for each of the cig lighter, switched radio power, and continuous radio power wires?
If so, any idea what size they should be?

Lastly, I have several open spots in my fuse box and a diagram that shows me which SHOULD be hot and hot-switched. Yes, I will confirm these with a multimeter. I've had GM specific fuse taps recommended to me and also simply sticking male spade connectors into these open spots. Is one better than the other for this?
 
personaly i would only use 18-20 gauge. or even smaller cause it isn't anything special. and yes i would run a fuse on the radio 12v constant, and the cig lighter. see if your cig tells you how much ampes it draws then use the correct rated fuse. im sure others would do it different but thats how i would run it. stock wire in most cars is small so you shouldn't worry.
 
16 gauge at the minimum, better 14 for the wiring from the deck to the speakers. For the deck power (the switched wire), the deck harness should some with a small inline fuse. You can use it if you want. I've personally always removed them, and never had any issues
 
The cigarette lighter should be on a seperate fused circuit. It's probably 14ga but I'd probably run 12ga. There probably already is a labeled spot for it on the fuse box. As for the radio & antenna run the same size wire as what's on the radio or antenna.

GM connectors are nice and probably a little better but cost more. It's up to you.

All should have a proper size fuse.;)
 
I'm an electrical noob when it comes to setting this stuff up completely. I've done speakers and stereo installs in vehicles that already came with factory radios but never have I started from scratch like with this one. Please bear with me. Use little words and don't talk too fast...:tongue1:


So how's a guy figure out what the appropriate size fuses would be?

Okay, so GM connectors it is. Where's a guy get one of these? Should the local NAPA or Advanced Auto have these?

Thanks guys.
 
Get the connectors from the wrecking yard and just solder them to the radio leads. Assuming we are talking about the fuse panel taps.

I wouldn't pay store price for those connectors, every GM vehicle in the 80's used those. They are keyed though, need to make sure you get the right connectors for the right cavities. You shouldn't need to tap into any other item (cig lighter, etc) to get what the power you need.
 
The local 'yards are worthless. It's almost assured it'd be cheaper to buy new connectors or to pay someone on here to send me some than to go to the local junkyards.

I'm not planning on tapping into any other items. I have more than enough empty but powered fuse slots available.
 
The radio isn't here yet. I'm just getting my ducks in a row before I start the whole process.
 
Okay guys, lemme ask some more questions. First off here's the fuse box in my truck:
364830_184_full.jpg


Okay, here's a diagram of the CUCV fuse panel:
fuseboxsmall_161.jpg


So these fuse taps everyone is telling me to get...I live in outer bumpkis because no one has ever heard of them or seems to have them.

I guess I'm confused. Can someone find a picture of these? The local NAPA place had something that might have been them in their catalog but nothing in stock.
Everyone had those slip in fuse taps that go in a slot already occupied with a fuse and sorta piggyback.
There was also the option of the item that fits into the fuse panel in place of a fuse and then has two fuse slots built in. One for the original fuse for whatever get's it's power from that slot and the other is the fuse for whatever you are installing. A power lead goes from that portion.

Do the GM fuse taps go in the switched and hot single slots mine has or are they meant to go in the double spots mine doesn't seem to have any of?
 
You'll need to get a voltmeter on that fuse panel, as it doesn't match the diagram you posted.

The GM "taps" are single blade connectors. In your picture, right above the lowermost 10A fuse, is one of the accessory ports. Looks like there are four taps right in that area, but that's the only one I see that has terminals in it. There are three on the extreme left side of your fuse panel as well.

Sorry, I don't have a photo of my fuse panel, those taps aren't much to look at though. :)
 
I've figured out that the diagram isn't accurate and only shows relative locations along with leaving out anything that shouldn't have a fuse in it on most CUCV's.
According to the diagram the three on the left are the switched sources and the one above the wiper and between the BO and tail fuses is a constant source.


Would the factory tap thing stick out a little bit and then have a wire coming off of it?
That's sort of what the thing NAPA could get looked like.
 
Yes, the taps stick out a bit, maybe 3/4"? They have a little tab on them that you depress to unlock them from the panel.
 
Okay, I'm going to try and call the local GM dealerships today...but I bet they'll be worse than the junkyards...I love living in a resort town miles from anywhere...

I'll also stop by NAPA and see when they can get those things they had.


Got the stuff today and the radio has a 10 amp fuse in it next to where the cord plugs in the back. Does that count as the fuse for the constant power and the switched power?
 
I'm not fmiliar with aftermarket radios, and it probably depends on the brand. Check the manual out if you can get it (online) and see what they say. Should cover things like installation I'd think.
 
I'd say if it has a fuse on the main, unswitched power, then you'll be fine. You could do like i did with my truck (which came with the grand radio delete) and just kinda do your own thing. I ran a main power wire, found a fuse spot that was switched, and ran my switched power off of that. Found somethin to put a screw in and grounded it there. I'm not sayin that is the best way, but its a decent way.

I would personally use a fuse tap that you described (with the lead running off of it), and get your hot power and switched power by that method. This makes all of your wiring dedicated to your stereo, and helps for a clean install, and simplifies troubleshooting. Of all things make sure you have a good ground other wise you are liable to get a whine or whirring noise in the speakers. If you run everything from the fuse panel, then you can prolly get away with like 16-18 gauge wire, since the distance wouldnt be much longer than 3 feet. For your speakers i would run 14 or so, but once again, you can do it with 16-18 gauge wire too, since your headunit won't be pushing alot of power. I wouldnt think that a cig lighter would draw alot of power, so you could probably run it the same way: fuse tap and 16-18 gauge wire.Hope this helps
 
if you havnt already purchased the 3.5s i have some boston acoustic 3.5s that are pretty good for 35$ shipped. will send the conectors and brackets as well.
 
floyd, thanks anyways, I already have the stuff. I shopped the scratch and dent section on Crutchfield and got my set for $30. Supposedly they're cosmetically flawed but I can't figure out where.:confused:



For the record NAPA can still get the GM fuse taps. They have them through their Belkamp brand. I bought three and by accident ended up with two plain taps and one that is a piggy back unit so you can plug another tap into it to share the spot on the fuse box. Works out for me in case I can't find another constant power tap spot.
The annoying part is they have itsy bitsy wire, like 20 gauge.

Okay, for the wire gauge...the radio exclusively uses 20 gauge in it's harness except for the constant power wire which is 16 gauge.
The wire that came with the speakers seems to be 20 gauge for the 3.5's and 18 gauge for the 6.5's. Both have enough wire that I should be able to just use that wire and not have to buy more.
I figure I'll scrounge up some 14 or 16 gauge wire for the constant power for the radio and the cigarette lighter and maybe the switched power. The rest will be what I got with the speakers.

This might be a dumb question but I've found a couple of inline fuse holders at the local autoparts places but they're all heavy wire (at least 14 gauge) and hold 30 amp fuses. I figure I can put a lower amp fuse in the holder fine but would having to step up and down to a smaller wire cause a problem?
I have a fuse in the back of the radio so I figure I only need two inline fuses, one for the cig lighter and one for the...switched power of the radio?
 
you dont really need a fuse on the switched power i dont think. The radio gets its power from the main power wire, i think the switched power is more to let the radio know when to turn on and off. I think this is correct but I dont know for sure. I wouldnt worry about it tho, just run the speaker wiring that came with them, and run 14-16 gauge wire to the radio and cig lighter (with inline fuse) and be done with it :)
 
This thing has a fuse in the back next to the plug for the wiring harness. I'm figuring that serves as the constant power's fuse. Would I need a second?
 
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