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Motor mount replacement

Switching to a 205 will my existing cross member still work or does it's location move?
 
I think the cross members are the same, iirc mine bolt right up when i switched the np203 for np205 behind the th350. i did have to move cross member mounting holes when the 700r4 went in.
 
I think the cross members are the same, iirc mine bolt right up when i switched the np203 for np205 behind the th350. i did have to move cross member mounting holes when the 700r4 went in.
So all I'll need to do, is get my driveshafts redone? I assume the rear will be lengthened and the front stays the same or?

And get shifters, seems ORD is out of stock on their twin stick, advanced adapter has a twin stick that looks damn near identical..

 
the front shaft should be same length. mating to t case is another story, and I can't say. The rear will need to longer. Good time to update to super duty double cardan drive shaft and rotate the rear pinon to match.
You don't have the np205 yet so back ordered twin stick shouldn't be an issue.
 
the front shaft should be same length. mating to t case is another story, and I can't say. The rear will need to longer. Good time to update to super duty double cardan drive shaft and rotate the rear pinon to match.
You don't have the np205 yet so back ordered twin stick shouldn't be an issue.
Cool... what benefits does that type of driveshaft provide opposed to what I have presently?

We can delve into that once i get the 205, should be next week
 
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When I did my motor mounts I took my time, and did one side on one day then the other side the next day so I did not knock myself out trying to get the job done.
 
When I did my motor mounts I took my time, and did one side on one day then the other side the next day so I did not knock myself out trying to get the job done.
I figure I'm going to wait and do the motor mounts (I did order them though) . I'm sourcing a 205 and probably going that route. So I doubt there is any point doing the motor mount swap when I'm planning to swap the 203 to a 205.

I want my Tcase back up to stock location and not dropped like it is now. So I'm going to have some work to do with drive shaft angles, and drive shaft lengths being adjusted. Also I'll need to set even more $$ aside, as my exhaust will need to be re done.

I may just install the rubber Tcase mounts I ordered from rock auto in the meantime.
 
the t case angle is not critical. just the pinion, which is easy to shim.
People would drop the 205's as well line
My 203 is?

I've read numerous post stating that with a 4' lift you don't need to drop the Tcase. But a previous owner did for one reason or another....vibrations or something.

I just think it would be best back up, get the distributor away from the fire wall.
 
People would drop the 205's as well line
My 203 is?

I've read numerous post stating that with a 4' lift you don't need to drop the Tcase. But a previous owner did for one reason or another....vibrations or something.

I just think it would be best back up, get the distributor away from the fire wall.
Your new motor mounts might not like that angle anyway. Could make them harder to install.
 
Your new motor mounts might not like that angle anyway. Could make them harder to install.
ORD messaged me back and said pretty much the same thing. They may work and if not, i can send them back.
 
When you swap tcases put the cross member back up like it left the factory. Then do your driveshafts for the new tcase, and fix the drivetrain angles.
If you want to swap engine mounts I would do it then.
 
Not to add confusion into the mix but I’m running polyurethane clamshell engine mounts and a rubber trans mount. 5 years with the 5.3/auto, 2 with the 8.1/manual.

It’s commonly put to run one or the other style. But after seeing the quality of rubber aftermarket clamshell mounts fail in short order I put the energy suspension mounts in and didn’t worry about it. I’ve yet to see any odd effects of the mismatch.

Don't be surprised when the poly clamshells fail, because they will. phat block problems......
 
Don't be surprised when the poly clamshells fail, because they will. phat block problems......
Two years and counting. Heavy right foot too. I think Larry is going on 4-5 years on his poly mounts in his. He was killing rubber units every couple of years prior to switching.

The 8.1 pan gets really close to touching the ORD tubular crossmember when any mount fails. It’s a pretty easy visual to check for sure.
 
Two years and counting. Heavy right foot too. I think Larry is going on 4-5 years on his poly mounts in his. He was killing rubber units every couple of years prior to switching.

The 8.1 pan gets really close to touching the ORD tubular crossmember when any mount fails. It’s a pretty easy visual to check for sure.

You won't know they're failing until you remove them and see them ripped. My truck is used harder though, maybe thats the difference. The 454 pan is really close to a stock crossmember as well.
 
You won't know they're failing until you remove them and see them ripped. My truck is used harder though, maybe thats the difference. The 454 pan is really close to a stock crossmember as well.
Having a manual plays into it. If they do tear I’m pretty sure the fan and shroud are going to start talking to each other if I do any aggressive clutch dumps.
 
Since it will be a bit before I swap in the ORD motor mounts, I ordered rubber transmission mounts from rock auto. Man, their shipping is slower than FedEx.

Anyway I digress. Is it a waste of time to put the rubber ones in and remove the poly transmission mounts?

I ordered the rubber to replace the poly one I have. But which way does the under mount? And I can't seem find any info on the hardware needed to secure. I assume I can use my energy suspension metal for the top part but what about the underneath of the cross member?

Even lmc doesn't have the hardware they only have poly mounts. I suppose I can just swap out the top part that mount rest on to rubber and leave the poly underneath

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..seems I can use the top parts hardware but the bottom hardware probably not. I may just swap the top poly to rubber and leave the poly on underside of the cross member sonce the hardware doesnt look compatible

130984B5-5E84-44A5-8B36-2C6F167854D0.jpeg
 
The energy suspension has a groove for that metal piece so am I to assume I don't need it for the rubber ones that seem to have a metal top already?


Anybody? Hahahaha. I'd like to get this done tomorrow but don't want to do it twice if I'm wrong

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