Motor mount woes

[84bigblue]

Was all hoped up this morning to change my motor mounts...then lo and behold realized my jack doesn't go high enough to reach the lower pulley on the motor or even any part of the motor for that matter any one have any creative solutions I'm all ears

 

[sweetk30]

length of 2x4 . . . did my buddys this way before . 1 at a time. and also a few scraps wedged between frame and motor just incase . . .

 

[diesel4me]

I once used a length of 2" pipe across the front fenders where the hood shuts against it--drilled a hole in the center of the pipe for a threaded rod and made it into an eye bolt,to hook a chain to it,bolted the chain to the engine,and tighten the nut on the rod to lift up on the engine..

A 4x4 wood post would likely be strong enough too,if you have no pipe --just watch the fenders for any sign of stress while you tighten up the nut..my inner fenders are swiss cheese and the fenders aren't much better,but they didn't buckle any lifting a 350 up that way..

This leaves underneath the truck "open",then your not having the jack and 2x4's right in your way..put some blocks between the motor and frame for safety so if the "lift" decided to slip,you wont get anything crushed..

 

[obijuank5]

one person with a long pry bar between the frame rail and the motor, pry up and remove and replace.

 

[84bigblue]

Sorry for the late reply all, got caught up yesterday, but thanks for all the great suggestions. I ended up placing the jack on a platform of wood and cinderblock I found and lifter up under the oil pan. Only managed to get the driver side done yesterday though ended up being a total pain with the top plate not matching up to the mount for the center bolt or the mount wouldn't match up to the holes on the frame took some strategic work with a pry bar but at least it's on there now

 

[sweetk30]

fyi worn out motor mounts 1 side at a time can be a bit tricky as the engine is not sitting were it should . have to use a prybar on the other side sometimes to lift it also and then side your changing will drop in .

 

[84bigblue]

fyi worn out motor mounts 1 side at a time can be a bit tricky as the engine is not sitting were it should . have to use a prybar on the other side sometimes to lift it also and then side your changing will drop in .

Haha yea I figured that was why I was having such a problem getting it to line up right ended up mounting the mount to the top plate and prying/pushing the mount to line it up with the holes on the frame

 

[84bigblue]

Oh and the only reason I didn't pull the passenger side off is because the p.o. put it in so that the center pin comes out and hits the fuel pump on the block before you can get it all the way out haha!

 

[Bohemian]

I just went through a similar issue with motor mount removal.

I replaced my transmission & motor mounts as part of same exercise.

I started at transmission:
1. Floor jack and 2x4 under transmission pan (th400)
2. Put jack stand and 2x4 under tranny pan, remove floor jack.
3. R&R tranny mount
4. Floor jack & 2x4 under oil pan.
5. Jack stand & 2x4 under front pully, remove floor jack.
6. Remove fuel pump, disconnect battery.
7. Leave on jacks stand's and 2x4's till you're done.
8. Remove all mounts. I also replaced freeze plugs behind motor mounts.
9. Replace all mounts, leaving all bolts loose, but installed till all of them are in place.
10. A 12" alignment punch works good for sticking in one hole to line up another nearby one.
11. Install fuel pump, connect battery and use floor jack to get off jack stands.

Never work on any vehicle without it resting on jack stands, even brand new hydraulic jacks or floor jacks will bleed down and vehicle could kill you.

My cousin died trusting his life to a floor jack. And my neighbor almost lost his leg when it was crushed because he trusted his life to a brand new floor jack.

Forewarned is forearmed.

Best regards