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Motor Mounts

Chief Brody

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What's the secret to intalling a 350...I cannot get the motor mount bolts to line up?

Should I have left the bolts from the frame to the mounts loose?

I got the passengers side in, but the drivers side is at least a half inch away from lining up.

Also can't get one of the bolt to start threading in the transmission mount....

What is the proper sequence to installing? Transmission mount bolts first? Engine mounts first?
 
Pry bars, and something to shove through the clamshell into the rubber mount once you get it close, then you can slide a bolt through. They can be a pain and the 2nd bolt sometimes needs help from a hammer.

Buying the DIY4X motor mounts seems to eliminate the hassle of the old mounts.
 
So it's a matter of prying and not adjusting the mounts? I noticed that the frame to mount bolt holes are slots allowing play but I went ahead an torqued them on straight...they are difficult to get to even with the engine out...
 
Trucks this old have shifted over the years, the rivets in the frame/crossmembers are just so, etc.

Put all the bits on loose until you get all the bolts started. Even then, expect fun and swearing.

Even the aftermarket style ones can be challenging to install -- see
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3148319&postcount=226

I ended up grabbing a loooonger bolt to start the motor mount-to-crossmember and draw it in, then got the others in place and replaced the first one with the correct length. There was also some swearing and prying going on.

Did I mention the swearing? :haha:

-- A
 
Yah i think they do have a little adjustment. When I replaced mine, I just put them in the exact same spot and it worked just fine :dunno:
 
Oh and you need beer. Cant put a motor in without beer.


Ahh beer.


I want a beer.

Think ill get a beer.... :whistle:
 
I already got the swearing thing down...:doah: It's yet to yield real results....
 
So it's a matter of prying and not adjusting the mounts? I noticed that the frame to mount bolt holes are slots allowing play but I went ahead an torqued them on straight...they are difficult to get to even with the engine out...

Yeah, they're painful to get at. But torquing them first, baaaad idea. Slot 'em all loosely and put up with the fact that you'll be banging knuckles and dropping wrenches on your head for a coupla hours.

-- A
 
if it can wait, I highly recommend doing Kert's engine mounts. I don't even notice any increase in vibrations, though I'm sure the rest of the truck covers them up. With factory or aftermarket mounts, everything should be left loose. Also, you should mount the engine to the tranny before setting it in the cradle. How would you like to work on these.....

z 015.jpg
 
There are a few variables when it comes to the motor mounts..GM used 2 different motor mount saddles ,one for 4wd trucks have the thru-bolt holes a good inch farther away from the block that the ones used of cars and 2wd trucks do...using the wrong ones or a mis-matched pair will bring greif when its time to get those bolts in---.........................................................................................................Also,the motor mounts on the frame have two locations they can be bolted too,there are two sets of bolt holes,and depending on which ones you bolt them too,puts them in different locations--a small block needs them installed one way,usually a big block will bolt up in the same location,some do not though and the pads need to be moved,and straight sixes used another bolt configuration to move the pads in closer to the block...............................................................................................
 

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