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Motor problems...long story need help!

broncoman6524

broncoman6524

1/2 ton status
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long story here and heres someback ground, i had this carb (1406edel) on my old intake, that warped so i put the stock intake on for about 3months with my old q-jet. got my new air-gap intake and put the 1406 back on...every since then i have been having problems with at about 3400+the truck will just NOT go anyhigher...like it feels like the motor has hit a stop and just keeps bogging...or pulling hte truck back and forth.

Before i put the new intake on, the local dealership whom i bought the motor from put all new exhaust valve seals in...they were all bad after 3000:mad: could it be that they mis-adjusted my rockers? and i have a valve float?


another thing is that it will fire right up w/o even touching the gas when its cold...if its hot i have to pump it and it will still crank for 5-10seconds...sometimes more.

and from a stop it will feel like your driving a stick and ****ty, (not enough gas too much clutch)

its an 84k5, gm 290hp crate. msd 6a box, edel airgap performer, 1406 carb, NEW pickup coil, cap and rotor and not even 1k on the plugs and wires...]\

could i jsut need a carb rebuild? or is the carb possibly not big enough?

im completely stumped...i know its either fuel or ign, and im stumped...
 
i forgot to add...

im runnin acr45ts plugs at about 52 gapped, taylor spiro pro wires, msd hei cap and rotor, and i set up my msd to eliminate my contol module.

im not sure what the timin is at...i have the balancer where you look straight down from behind the water pump. and it is set where the pointer is dead at 12 o-clock.
 
what is your BTDC timing set at??? reason i ask is that i have a GM crate motor that has the same symptoms..some of them anyways...it will fire up no problem at all!!!! and sometimes i get a backfire when it's kinda cold in the morning. my BTDC is set at 8degrees and recently i swapped the advance from full manifold to ported manifold vac. and it did help ALOT but not completely. i also believe that the springs in my dizzy are worn out...so im gonna replace them.

i run the same carb as you with delco plugs and the same wires with a mallory ignition/dizzy.

your carb is plenty big enough but hows your distributor??? could the springs be worn out and bringing your advance in REALLY quick. something to check out if you ask me. my truck has to turn over for like 5to10seconds before it starts too.
 
check the choke and make sure its opening,if its not your starving your motor for air which would also explain why it starts so easy cold when you need a rich mixture and so hard hot when it needs to be leaned out.
 
like i said im not sure...when we put it togheter we used a newer balancer off of a 93 sbc, instead of hte older style and we didnt know so my pointer is where it is for htis era truck but the way to time it is behind the water pump straight down...my neighbor who helped me put it in said to just make the mark be at 12 0-clock

im thinkin that it may be the fuel pump...like not putting out enough fuel...i replaced it when i did hte motor like 4months ago...it is a stock one though.

im not sure of the condition of the dist...most of it has been gone through/replaced...my springs are kinda loose...hmm i may swap them out tommorrow and put in a stronger set of step up springs.
 
tumbleweed1002 said:
check the choke and make sure its opening,if its not your starving your motor for air which would also explain why it starts so easy cold when you need a rich mixture and so hard hot when it needs to be leaned out.
Click to expand...

i have it set at a pretty lean setting...how do i check this anyways? its never been too clear to me...
 
you have an electric choke. it should shut and then open as the motor warms up. pull your cleaner off and with the motor/truck cold it should flap shut right away when you start it and as it warms up it should open. maybe once you hit the gas.


we just did my dads fuel pump and his signs as it was going out was that it would buck and die when it hit a certain speed/RPM so a bad pump is very possible. we tested his by using a piece of fuel hose in a small gas can going straight to the carb inlet....then he could rev it no problem at all. his oil also smelled like fuel since the pump sometimes leaks into the crankcase when it fails. i should add that one day when he got into his truck it just didn't start one day. so the pump eventually completely *hit out on him. good luck bro.
another possibility would be the cat clogged up...mine would act like the motor cut out at like 3k RPM but it just wasn't flowing enough air....some cheap pipe and about 2hours later, problem solved.

***EDIT**** does yours ever backfire on you???

also, where in FL are you??? im near tampa. are you anywhere around here?
 
im around orlando...close to bithlo highway 50and 520 area...

i dont have cats:D hooker longtubes, 2.25 into 40series, true duals...dont think my problem is restriction...:wink1: :haha:

by bucking do you mean taht at like say 3500rpm...the motor would STAY there...and kinda jump back and forth in rpms but wouldnt accelerate? as htis is what mine is doing...
 
i forgot...no it doesnt ever seem to backfire on me...but if i stomp the gas...the motor will die...adn then comeback if i let off, but if i stay init like say around a corner it will just die, and stall..
 
yeah, his truck would do just that...and if he got in it past half throttle it would die right out, but he'd have to pull over and restart it. it wouldn't restart on it's own like yours is doing. but with my dads fuel pump, it got progressively worse. then it just completely crapped out one day.

will yours do it if you free rev, or is it just under a load like maybe your secondaries aren't opening.
 
actually im not sure...i honestly havent tried it....i prefer to do things like that wehn my mom isnt home....:rolleyes: she doestn seem to understnd that if the truck is in N or P at 3k its the same as doing 70down the highway:doah: :haha:
 
haha...i can relate to that one, believe me...and it's the neighbors that get po'd not so much my parents. haha. try it out and see what happens. also, is yours getting worse and worse, or is it just staying the same???
 
well...the "flat spots" in the carb are getting worse...before theyre be at like 1500rpm and now its just above idle as you start to move...

if i swap out pumps should i go with a higher flow pump or just a standard one?
 
we went with a delco factory replacement. it lasted 24years and 90k miles, so we figured just a factory replacement would do good.
 
well...i drove it today...it rained so its colder outside...it lasted till about 3900then it started breaking up.

it did stall out flat as i slowed down for a stop light...when i acclereated, (light turned green adn i hadnt stopped yet) is when it just died on me...

im going to go and put my old pump on after it stops raining.
 
nah it kept raining like a bitch...and i dont have a gasket to seal it...adn id rather not use silicoln i have to leave for work a 7am so it wouldnt get to set as long as i would like...
 
1. Check your fuel filter.

2. Check float level

3. Check choke adjustment

4. Make sure the secondaries are opening propperly, check for linkage binding too

5. Make sure that when your pedal hits the floor it is actually full throttle
 
for edelbrock it is 7/16 float level correct?

ill just pull off my filter and see what happens...

ive checked the pedal and its set up correct...i dont really like hwo my throttle linkage is set up though..i have like a loop before the bracket..then theres the adapter for the cable on the carb, adn on hte bottom of the linkage is my kickdown switch holder and spring...ill trya nd find a picture...
 
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