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mounting cage to bed rails, playing with fire?

RobTav63

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Alright, before this turns into a debate about mounting to frame vs. floor, let's just say there're already a whole bunch of threads about the subject and leave that be. What I'm toying with is the conventionally worse, and generally useless idea of mounting to the bed rails. So why open Pandora's box? Here's my thinking.

For starters, I don't get to do any real off-roading. I live in the burbs, and I count on my ride to get to work everyday. My rig is set-up for street driving. The only 4x4ing my truck really sees is some NY snow (which it negotiates handily). I won't be doing a back-flop in the Devil's Hwy Hot Tub or going arse-over-kettle-over-arse-over-kettle-over-arse down Potato Salad Hill, BUT highway speeds can lead to pretty nasty rollovers.

My objective is to mount a cage that will offer at least as much protection as my hardtop (on an 83 half cab), so I can go topless without added risk. I know in reality there's the increased risk of projections and projectiles, but that aside, I'm looking to basically recover whatever amount of structural strength would be lost by removing the cap. And I think, for a lot of the guys on here whose truck is their DD, they want the same thing.

Devil's advocate that I am... "Well, what does this all have to do with bedrails? You can just buy a bolt in kit and risk your and your loved one's lives with that, ya jabroni."

Well, let me pitch this. You don't mount directly to the rail, but rather, weld to a length of angle steel that mounts to the rail. My thinking here is that, with the help of some well placed gussets and kickers, the design would distribute the energy of impact over a greater surface area. Perhaps even better than a floor mounted cage would. here's a basic idea I just sketched up:

20160414_141537.jpeg

The idea here is that the "cage" basically replaces the cap and uses all the same mounting holes. In this design, there are still kickers from the front and back that add support from the wells with a big fat padded flange plate, and two steel braces on each side that support from the frame rail to the wells also. The angle steel could also be drilled out with rivet mounts for a canvass top.

So what are the potential pros?

-bolt in cage would require no alterations to the body and utilize existing bolt mounts
-mounting to rails allows for cage that doesn't encroach on interior space
-cage could double as frame for soft cover
-mitigates lost structure from removing cap (maybe)

and the obvious Cons?

-Bolt mounting makes vulnerable to lateral impact during roll-over (any more so than w/ fiberglass cap?)
-bed rail would be a buckle point (any more so than w/ fiberglass cap?)
-a lot of work/material expense for something that doesn't offer nearly as much safety as a frame mounted cage
-requires storage when hard top is on
-a lot of material compared to average bolt-in
-matching body contours on B-pillar could be tricky
-(100 other things I didn't think of)

I know it's easy for me to just sketch something out on paper and throw around grand ideas, but if there's a place to get an idea like this troubleshot, defended, or outright debunked, it's here. Just bear in mind, the principle objective is to make something that replaces the structural safety that the cap provided. Go!
 
As long as you brace to the floor I don't think the strength would be an issue. The bed rails are decently strong .

In addition if you ran a peice of angle along the entire length of the bedrail.

Lots of Jeep bolt in cages mount to the cowl with essentially bracing going to the floor.

I think you could make it work with very little strength compromise. But it's gonna be alot of careful fitment.

Cool idea.

A couple more observation. I have seen the half cab blazers roll with no cage. One on the road and several off road. I am convinced the fiberglass top offers ZERO protection.

In addition high speed, such as highway speeds, leads to brutal forces.

I think way more about every part of the cage when doing cages in cars that very likely if involved in a wreck it will be on a track at speed.
 
$hite, meant to post this in the garage, anyone know how to go about having it moved? I need to PM a mod?

***edit: Looks like it's been handled, thanks to whoever took care of it
 
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In addition if you ran a peice of angle along the entire length of the bedrail.

Yeah, that's where i was going with it. I've seen bed bars that just bolt in and they look pretty useless. Cosmetic at best. I think having the angle steel run the length of the bed will serve to distribute force over a greater area. I'm going to talk to my Uncle about maybe fabing it this summer, but I figured I'd get some feedback on here before spending time measuring and pricing out materials
 
I think you would be creating something that is primarily cosmetic from your description, on par with the fiberglass factory topper it would add little protection over running top less.

If you have the tools and materials a floor mount cage that fits under your topper with frame tie-ins isn't much more work and you would gain the most for your effort.

If you don't I believe that there are some pre-fab cages available for reasonable prices. Buy a basic one if money is tight and you can add to it if your needs change.
 
I disagree. If done right you are just using wasted space. Spreading the load out over a large area is key.

This spreads the load out greatly. So combining that with tubing could provide a very stout setup.

Round tubing is not the only allowable form of steel you can use in a cage. Fabricated braces to the floor might even make this cage in a direct compressive force stronger.

It's a very interesting idea indeed
 
Blazin is on the idea path I'm thinking, mount to the bed rails, make some brackets/braces that tie bed rail into the floor. They'd be sinple to make and would tuck in behind everything. As he said jeeps to the same thing at the dash board. Round tube into a 90* degree bracket that runs down the side of dash to the floor, a very method I've been considering on my 72' just for room for my a/c
 
My mental picture of what you were making mounted more like a truck ladder rack with angle down the bed rails and tubes tied into that, if you're adding more structure from the rails to the floor I cansee where you would gain strength. Basically you're building a uni-body that ties to roof hoops, if you tied your hoops in just inside the rails instead of on top you might be able to get the topper on with the cage in place.
 
I am going to be doing the same thing, but with additional bars that go to the floor, and then attach to the frame with poly bushings. I think it would be a good frame work to make a soft top from and gain additional strength by attaching to the body. Kurt from DIY4X ties into the seat belt bolts for additional strength. Even if you don't tie it in anywhere but where the top goes, it should be just as strong, if not stronger than the fiberglass top in a rollover or crash.
 
@RobTav63

So you planning on attaching it to the half cab too? Kind of looks like that in your drawing.

That's a great idea. You could literally have a half cab cage that bolts in.

One thing in your drawing, the braces that go from the bed rail to the floor, try to put this inline with the tube above the bed rail.

Also in the drawing there are no roof bars. One diagonal in the roof of the cage will improve strength substantially.

I'm really digging this concept
 
@RobTav63

So you planning on attaching it to the half cab too? Kind of looks like that in your drawing.

That's what I was thinking, so it would all bolt in just like the f/g cap does. But the fab would be tough to pull off, trying to match the b-pillar and cross member contours. Would also need to either go square, or join angle iron to the DOM to create a flush mounting surface.

Buy the cage thing that @TnA made to bolt to the cab. Then build off of that.

Edit: Page 24

https://ck5.com/forums/threads/tnas...ct-development-thread-roll-bar.307622/page-24

This could solve that headache. I wonder if he could fab it sans the interior bars...

@RobTav63

One thing in your drawing, the braces that go from the bed rail to the floor, try to put this inline with the tube above the bed rail.

Also in the drawing there are no roof bars. One diagonal in the roof of the cage will improve strength substantially.

Yeah, I definitely need to add some triangulation on the horizontal plane, and vertical side to side plane. A diagonaI over the rear seat roof is definitely in order. I was also thinking of doing an X between the two lengths that extend down toward the tailgate, could add a lot of strength and support a tire mount, but would kill visibility. I'll post my 2.0 drawing soon with some updates.
 
20160415_153015.jpg so this added triangulation, and more sensible location for the floor braces, but the joins are overloaded, too many converging members, need to step in the beams that back from the b pillar, and jog down the top of the X 1/2 a foot. ditched the well mounted kickers, not sure they would really add much integrity
 
version 2.2K5 Cage.jpg stepped in some of the connections to avoid crowded joins. I think some of the junctions in the previous were over pie-sliced. Didn't think I'd like the step ins, but now that's I see it drafted, I think it's kind of cool. Also, not drawn in, but the idea is to mount with all the existing bolt locations in the bed rails, B pillar, and back of the cab roof, and also utilize bracings that extend to the floor.

Labeled parts for ease of discussion, but I don't know how legible they'll be. ABC make the first hoop (ala TnA), DEF make the backseat "roof", GHI make the second hoop, JKLM make the kickers and bracings, NO make the way back "roof", PQ are short risers (bent off of of KL), RS are the angle steel bed rails, TUVWXY are the floor bracings.

Considering maybe another length of angle steel as a rail over the tailgate with a flap of weather stripping (Z), so ABCRSZ could then have snaps for a canvas top.

Also maybe a tube between the base of G and top of I, or vice versa, or both. Or a "Y" shaped tube structure behind the back seat. Something to get triangulation on the side to side vertical plane there.

Thoughts?
 
K and D and F and L need to line up.

At a very minimum they need gussets tieing them into the other tube. Lining em up should be plenty easy though

Your design above was better. It had 2 dead nodes. The lower design has 12
 
I kind of assumed you wanted the whole back open. So I haven't suggested any bars there but if you can it will help side to side tremendously
 
Bring all the ends of the tubes to the same corners to eliminate the dead nodes, and you will have something pretty cool imo.
 
gotcha. I was trying to make it easier to fab, but didn't really think about that. I'll scrap that design and work off the previous, and ditch the two short risers at the end of the kickers too, they're kind of pointless. I'm gonna take measurements and make a legit blue print next. My only concern is that the top left corner off the second hoop will have 6 converging tubes, I'm gonna need some help with that. I guess bend the hoop, then add the lengths going front to back, then add the diagonal pieces?:dunno:
 

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