CK5
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Move rear axle or leave it stock location?
- Thread starter TX Mudder
- Start date
blk87K5
1/2 ton status
Since /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif have such bad departure angles, moving the rear axle back helps a lot. After a shackle flip, it also helps to move the rear axle back into the center of the wheel wells, although it is not that far off. On a /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif about the max you can move the rear axle back w/o hitting the tank is ~3" I think. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Don't quote me on that one. Don't know about /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif.
As was said earlier, moving back helps departure. You can also cut the bed sides back (like moneypit) to dramatically help.
On my rig, I have almost a 90* departure and I'm running a small K5 tank mounted higher than stock (about 2" above the frame). I built a cross member at the front of the tank that has a bump stop mounted so that the axle can not hit the tank. This provides me with up to 6.5" of up travel at the diff with much more on the sides available for articulation...
On my rig, I have almost a 90* departure and I'm running a small K5 tank mounted higher than stock (about 2" above the frame). I built a cross member at the front of the tank that has a bump stop mounted so that the axle can not hit the tank. This provides me with up to 6.5" of up travel at the diff with much more on the sides available for articulation...
What did you have to go through to raise the tank? I have been thinking about doing this.
Well, remember, I was converting a K30 to use a K5 tank so, I had to do everything from scratch. However, I used cross members from a Suburban so it would be much the same for raising the tank on a K5.
Basically, cut the rivets out of the tank cross members and remove them. Then, notch the ends at the location where they will fit over the frame lip, build a "leg" to stabilize the bottom, and a bracket to tie the top to the frame. Here is a pic of my front tank cross member installed, you will need to do something similar...
Basically, cut the rivets out of the tank cross members and remove them. Then, notch the ends at the location where they will fit over the frame lip, build a "leg" to stabilize the bottom, and a bracket to tie the top to the frame. Here is a pic of my front tank cross member installed, you will need to do something similar...
blk87K5
1/2 ton status
To raise it up about 1", you can cut and splice the straps holding the tank up. Then modify the skid plate to match. Don't know how to get it up much higher than that with out Viagra.
I'm confused, how is that possible when the tank fits up in the "cup" formed by the 2 cross members? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
