Howdy all, been quite some time other than a post here or there for me!
In the slow process of boxing a frame and swapping bodies on the truck, while working on that, I've gotten the (stupid?) idea to attempt moving the radiator into the space formerly occupied by the AC condenser.
There is a Corvette radiator that will fit (example: http://www.championradiators.com/page/405141574 ). The condenser "cutout" in the core support is very near 17x30", so it will be close, but it should fit. If not, I will make it fit.
I didn't find any posts that describe doing this. Anyone aware of others that have? Tips or ideas? I don't think it will be very hard to implement, but I foresee a few challenges.
FWIW, my K5 currently has the "tall" 3 row copper/brass radiator, dual electric fans, mild 350, and a manual trans. I have absolutely no problem with it ever overheating, only one fan is ever used, so I've got excess cooling capacity.
Quick/rough calculation shows that I'm talking about a nearly 50% reduction in cubic inches available for coolant, which is just one measure of radiator capability. I've run the current radiator down to half full before, without issue (thanks slow leak!) so I think that just bolsters my belief that I have far more cooling capacity than necessary.
Just another fun project!
Specs: radiator in truck now, overall measurements, all not precise. 35x21x2.125 (1562 cubic inches) Champion 30x16.5x2.5 (1238 cubic inches). About a 20% reduction in exterior dimensions.
Will be updating below (this post) as I progress.
13AUG12
Ended up buying the Champion 3 Row Radiator (CC829 at other vendors), sold for the 1984-1990 Corvettes. $206 off ebay (vendor atomicradiator), free shipping.
Things to consider with this radiator:
Radiator hose inlet/outlets are 1.5". I don't care what the vendors say, mine mic at 1.5". Who knows, it's chinese, they might vary. There are many GM apps with a lower hose 1.5" radiator side, finding one to fit shouldn't be too difficult.
No heater hose fitting=no worries, most Chev apps can run the return to the water pump, as will I. Just have to use a 45* fitting.
Radiator is designed for a low-coolant indicator sensor. It's an unthreaded nipple .310" (roughly 5/16) diameter. Plenty of meat to tap larger (if wanting to plug, test radiator efficiency with another coolant temp sensor, etc.), but too small to use as a heater inlet. GM part number for the one wire sensor (should be easy to make work with a warning light I assume) 10054615. $14-16 multiple places. I just said 1988 Corvette to source the part. I'm thinking I can use the seatbelt warning light for this.
Radiator measures almost exactly 17" tall with cap in place.
Radiator has transmission line (PS cooler? Sweet) fittings.
Saddle mount locations are a bit "undefined". Bit that seems common with the cheap aluminum radiators. Should not be an issue with proper mounts.
Radiator holds less than a gallon of coolant, about .75 gallons. You figure half the radiator is simply fins, so maybe what, 35% of the core can hold water? I suspect this is not going to be forgiving of weak fans, or corrosion. I measured the capacity of a 4 core copper/brass that is the same width, but slightly taller than the small block "tall" radiator. This radiator was used with a big block, but is not the extra wide one (34" core?) used on some applications. It held approximately 1.66 gallons of coolant.
Lower radiator hose Dayco 71131. 1987 Monte Carlo (among others). Water pump side seems to be right diameter (compared to stock hose, didn't test fit) and the radiator side is definitely 1.5", it fits. This hose looks like it would probably work for most truck apps using a smaller radiator hose fitting, except maybe with an AIR pump? It doesn't appear it would clear whatever accessory sometimes sits there. Update: It fits. A bit short with the radiator moved forward, but thinking it still might work once the radiator is in solid.
Lower radiator hose fitting is a bit higher in the radiator tank than on most radiators I've seen. I'm not sure how that will affect cooling. They say it's good for 750HP, we'll see how it handles 2000 more lbs of weight!
Hard to tell from the below picture, but that is it sitting in place of the condenser. It is actually that short in relation to the cutout. Once I get mounts in there, it will raise up some. Amazingly it appears the radiator cap will still be accessible. That was one of my concerns.
Edit: Picked up a Ford Focus fan from a 2000. Does not use bolts, uses "hangers" that slide into u-shaped brackets. No different than the LT1 fans I'm running now essentially, just smaller. Also uses a resistor for the low speed setting of the fans, which is problematic from what I've read on line, and the fact that the resistor connector is melted in this one. As either MAF or MAP TPI can control two fans, it will be a simple matter of taking the stock fan wiring, and wiring each fan to operate at full power, all the time, but not come on at once, thus lessening the startup electrical load.
In the slow process of boxing a frame and swapping bodies on the truck, while working on that, I've gotten the (stupid?) idea to attempt moving the radiator into the space formerly occupied by the AC condenser.
There is a Corvette radiator that will fit (example: http://www.championradiators.com/page/405141574 ). The condenser "cutout" in the core support is very near 17x30", so it will be close, but it should fit. If not, I will make it fit.
I didn't find any posts that describe doing this. Anyone aware of others that have? Tips or ideas? I don't think it will be very hard to implement, but I foresee a few challenges.
FWIW, my K5 currently has the "tall" 3 row copper/brass radiator, dual electric fans, mild 350, and a manual trans. I have absolutely no problem with it ever overheating, only one fan is ever used, so I've got excess cooling capacity.
Quick/rough calculation shows that I'm talking about a nearly 50% reduction in cubic inches available for coolant, which is just one measure of radiator capability. I've run the current radiator down to half full before, without issue (thanks slow leak!) so I think that just bolsters my belief that I have far more cooling capacity than necessary.
Just another fun project!
Specs: radiator in truck now, overall measurements, all not precise. 35x21x2.125 (1562 cubic inches) Champion 30x16.5x2.5 (1238 cubic inches). About a 20% reduction in exterior dimensions.
Will be updating below (this post) as I progress.
13AUG12
Ended up buying the Champion 3 Row Radiator (CC829 at other vendors), sold for the 1984-1990 Corvettes. $206 off ebay (vendor atomicradiator), free shipping.
Things to consider with this radiator:
Radiator hose inlet/outlets are 1.5". I don't care what the vendors say, mine mic at 1.5". Who knows, it's chinese, they might vary. There are many GM apps with a lower hose 1.5" radiator side, finding one to fit shouldn't be too difficult.
No heater hose fitting=no worries, most Chev apps can run the return to the water pump, as will I. Just have to use a 45* fitting.
Radiator is designed for a low-coolant indicator sensor. It's an unthreaded nipple .310" (roughly 5/16) diameter. Plenty of meat to tap larger (if wanting to plug, test radiator efficiency with another coolant temp sensor, etc.), but too small to use as a heater inlet. GM part number for the one wire sensor (should be easy to make work with a warning light I assume) 10054615. $14-16 multiple places. I just said 1988 Corvette to source the part. I'm thinking I can use the seatbelt warning light for this.
Radiator measures almost exactly 17" tall with cap in place.
Radiator has transmission line (PS cooler? Sweet) fittings.
Saddle mount locations are a bit "undefined". Bit that seems common with the cheap aluminum radiators. Should not be an issue with proper mounts.
Radiator holds less than a gallon of coolant, about .75 gallons. You figure half the radiator is simply fins, so maybe what, 35% of the core can hold water? I suspect this is not going to be forgiving of weak fans, or corrosion. I measured the capacity of a 4 core copper/brass that is the same width, but slightly taller than the small block "tall" radiator. This radiator was used with a big block, but is not the extra wide one (34" core?) used on some applications. It held approximately 1.66 gallons of coolant.
Lower radiator hose Dayco 71131. 1987 Monte Carlo (among others). Water pump side seems to be right diameter (compared to stock hose, didn't test fit) and the radiator side is definitely 1.5", it fits. This hose looks like it would probably work for most truck apps using a smaller radiator hose fitting, except maybe with an AIR pump? It doesn't appear it would clear whatever accessory sometimes sits there. Update: It fits. A bit short with the radiator moved forward, but thinking it still might work once the radiator is in solid.
Lower radiator hose fitting is a bit higher in the radiator tank than on most radiators I've seen. I'm not sure how that will affect cooling. They say it's good for 750HP, we'll see how it handles 2000 more lbs of weight!
Hard to tell from the below picture, but that is it sitting in place of the condenser. It is actually that short in relation to the cutout. Once I get mounts in there, it will raise up some. Amazingly it appears the radiator cap will still be accessible. That was one of my concerns.
Edit: Picked up a Ford Focus fan from a 2000. Does not use bolts, uses "hangers" that slide into u-shaped brackets. No different than the LT1 fans I'm running now essentially, just smaller. Also uses a resistor for the low speed setting of the fans, which is problematic from what I've read on line, and the fact that the resistor connector is melted in this one. As either MAF or MAP TPI can control two fans, it will be a simple matter of taking the stock fan wiring, and wiring each fan to operate at full power, all the time, but not come on at once, thus lessening the startup electrical load.
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been a long time since I've read your posts!
