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MT-27 vs. MT-28 Starter Motors

campfire

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Here is my illustrated guide to the 4 types of starters that shipped with GM 6.2/6.5 engines.

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It's actually a lie, the closed nose starters only work with automatic flex plates, not with manual flywheels. The open nose starters work with either. My M1009 thread has pictures of what happens when this rule isn't obeyed.

The MT-27 starters came with older 6.2 engines, the MT-28 starters came with newer 6.5 engines. Not sure what overlap (if any) they had. The braces used to support the front of these starter motors are of different lengths. So they're not quite as compatible as the bulletin implies. The gear-reduction starters do crank the engine over faster than the direct drive starters do.
 
I had to make my brace.. as your saw and the bolts are different length.
 
My starter burned up on my 6.2L, I'm looking at converting to the high torque 28-mt. Do you guys have a part number for one that fits?
I found this one but I'm not sure if it will fit. I know I need the brace also.
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You can buy brand new gear reduction ones under 100 bucks online--might be imported,but they seem to hold up fine..
I found the best deals on starters and alternators are used ones from salvage yards--often a vehicle comes in with a new or rebuilt one that was installed not that long ago,and the price is cheap enough..
 
ha
You can buy brand new gear reduction ones under 100 bucks online--might be imported,but they seem to hold up fine..
I found the best deals on starters and alternators are used ones from salvage yards--often a vehicle comes in with a new or rebuilt one that was installed not that long ago,and the price is cheap enough..
I ordered the one off Amazon with the correct brace. I always forget about salvage yards cuz I have lived for so long without one nearby and now I think there are a few by me. I don't really havd time though at this time since my other truck got in a wreck the other day and so both my rigs are down.
 
Just bought a Powermaster 9052 tired of China built crap. Also can someone make this a sticky it would have saved me some digging.
 
Not to shit in anyone’s Cheerios , but I have not had luck with the Powermaster I have had 2 on my 6.5 burb in under 20,000 miles and the one that’s on it now is not long for this world.
 
Well crap I hate to hear that yellowk20 but so far I am in love with mine. It fit perfectly and I really like the placement and type of connectors used on the Powermaster starter a definite upgrade. Pulled the engine to life without the block heater on a 30°f no problem.
Yellow K20 have you checked and or changed the positive cables from the battery to the starter? A bad cable can burn up a perfectly good starter.
 
Well crap I hate to hear that yellowk20 but so far I am in love with mine. It fit perfectly and I really like the placement and type of connectors used on the Powermaster starter a definite upgrade. Pulled the engine to life without the block heater on a 30°f no problem.
Yellow K20 have you checked and or changed the positive cables from the battery to the starter? A bad cable can burn up a perfectly good starter.


My cables are 1/0 fine stranded cable with hydraulicly crimped ends that are were then heat shrinked , it’s how I make all my cables .

I have the exact same engine combo in my 90 V3500 , with identically made cables but with a GM gear reduction starter that has been trouble free for over a 100,000 miles .
 
My cables are 1/0 fine stranded cable with hydraulicly crimped ends that are were then heat shrinked , it’s how I make all my cables .

I have the exact same engine combo in my 90 V3500 , with identically made cables but with a GM gear reduction starter that has been trouble free for over a 100,000 miles .
Glad to see I am not the only electrical OCD nut out here. Do you use the liquid tape before heat shrink or the shrink with it inside already?
 
Glad to see I am not the only electrical OCD nut out here. Do you use the liquid tape before heat shrink or the shrink with it inside already?


I spray the ends with electrical insulating varnish then Heat Shrink , the kind that has the glue-ish stuff in it.
 
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