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Mud Drag Modifications

another cheap (although time consuming) trick that might help you out... take all of the areas on low hanging parts of the truck, diffs in particular, and round off any square edges on the front side. every little bit that you can help the mud under the parts of the truck will prevent it from getting build up under there, and bringing you to a halt.

disc brakes are also a very good idea, as they'll never pack up with mud like a drum can.
 
Thanks for the suggestion about the tires the size is really nearly the same cost. I will drop what weight I can to help lighten the load. I have a holley blue I have been thinking about so that is a great Idea. It may not be the toughist truck but I think with good tuning it will run as good as everyone else. The problem with a line lock it it looses the full auto which I count as a advantage to driving quick. There are a few other tricks like lifting the motor for better weight transfer and adding rear balast for more rear traction.
 
Fender wells, fan shroud protection, and under engine covering. Mud getting on the radiator and all over the intake and everything else just plain sucks, and keeps things cooler for better running.

The small things can help.
 
80' 427 said:
The problem with a line lock it it looses the full auto which I count as a advantage to driving quick.
Click to expand...
:thinking: a drag racer who doesnt know what a line lock is... a line lock has absolutely nothing to do with the trans.
 
Tires are the biggest thing here I think. That and getting your motor to rev. I have seen pits that are a 100ft long and guys running a similar setup to yours they start in second in low and never shift. The key to this is obviously being able to rev your motor fairly high without worry. Basically I would look at the Ford that wins all the time and duplicate his setup as closely as possible with Chevy parts :D
 
definetly a wider tire in the rear with a narrower tire in the front, interco once told me run boggers on the rear where there isn't much weight and to run regular tsl up front for their flotation quality. and all the guys running the pit here run 10 bolts front and rear for ground clearance, and they are so common if you screw one off they just sling another one under it and put their spool and gears in it,

but with you wanting it to be road worthy also a full spool isn't a good idea, maybe have two rears one for the street and one for the pit and run a full spool in it, the day before unhook driveshaft block truck up in front of springs and undo your shackles and roll the rear out and put the race rear in, or like has already been posted make a race only truck.

alot of guys here run the vortec heads that except the perimeter valve cover and the old style intake so it looks more "stock" our rules allow for up to a 36" tire and as much lift as you want to run. they have a book to see what came stock and i run in the stock 6 cylinder class with a 74 k5 with 12 bolt rear and 10 bolt front, and a 98 vortec 4.3 with 35's just abou 2-3" wider in the rear with regular tsls up front, and i win quite a bit because not alot of competition in 6 banger class,

there are alot in the 4 and 8 hole classes, but very few in 6, and what is in my class are mostly 6 cylinder toyotas and inline six jeeps. you can do engine swaps and there is one cj5 that has me worried a little he has d44 front and rear and a 4.3 just like mine. i would like to put a powerglide in mine and try and pass it off as a th350, but i like playing by the rules becuse if you get caught cheating they ban you for good,
like this one guy that was dominating in the 8 cylinder stock class running a 350/350/203 but they caught him with a sneaky pete in the evaporator box and he ran his lines thru the heater hoses and tapped into the intake runner in the lifter valley. pretty ingenuise, but he can't play there ever again
 
Ur right a line lock isn't in the tranny. I was thinking one thing and typing the other. I have line lock on my camaro (4 speed). Some would argue that Naturally asperated would mean no bottle, of course n/a usually means no turbo/super charger. Huh? Might be a good Idea. I was wrong 1 track has 100' all the test are 150'.
 
U think boggers on the front would dig 2 much? I was thinking 10s up front and 14s out back.
 
If it were mine, I would (did) put the skinniest Swamper available up front (regardless of tread pattern).
 
It looks like in a 33 the skinnest tire is a 10.5 and 14 is the widest bogger.
 
What about sway bar disconnets, adjustable shocks, and rear balast to help load the rear tires? Of course on my camaro that is super important but on a 4x4 maybe it doesn't matter.
 
same basic principles apply, you want to transfer as much weight as possible. only its not really for rear traction as much as it is to keep the front end from digging in. a Blazer tank mounted between the frame rails behind the rear axle wouldnt be a bad start at all.
 
80' 427 said:
Ur right a line lock isn't in the tranny. I was thinking one thing and typing the other. I have line lock on my camaro (4 speed). Some would argue that Naturally asperated would mean no bottle, of course n/a usually means no turbo/super charger. Huh? Might be a good Idea. I was wrong 1 track has 100' all the test are 150'.
Click to expand...

I ran a few mud bogs eons ago (early 80’s). They were all 200’ long and 4’ deep. I ran a 70 blazer, 4” lift, 350/350thm and 33”BFG M/T (ran in 4low). I was in the street modified class which allowed anything that was street legal. The aluminum intake moved me up from stock to the modified class.
If your pit is anything like the ones I ran, forget trying to dig to the bottom for traction by the time you hit anything hard enough you would be pushing mud with the windshield.
For me traction and RPM were key. The faster you got the tires spinning the further you would make it. More often than not trucks in the street class running 44” tires would stop within 30’ due to their lack of power. One guy took some heavy rubber material, like mud flaps from a semi, and attached to his front axle and his front bumper, interesting idea but he broke so I never got to see it work.

The fastest truck (not street legal) was a Chevy PU with a 327/PG/205/dana 44/14bolt running tractor tires which had to be ~60” tall. He ran a three stage nitrous setup with one hell of a stall converter. According to the driver he left the line at 5000rpm hit the first bottle at 6k, next at 7k and the last when he hit high gear. He never managed to get the rims of his truck dirty just drove right over the top of the mud and the soupier it was the better he liked it, fewer bumps.
 
A lot of the guys run those mud flaps up front, or course so do the coyote hunter here to keep the grass out of the fan/engine.
 
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