mud racer, updates - more video's

[blueblazes44]

Don't blame you for not wanting to swap now but I can be on the hunt. My sponsor is a local trans shop and have friends at 2 local yards so good deals can be found if willing to take time and gather over a few months.

 

[YZEATER]

Thanks. I'll Have to check ratios with the 208 and what adapter i would need. .

 

[folkenheath]

Thanks. I'll Have to check ratios with the 208 and what adapter i would need. .

The 203 is 2.0:1 low, the 208 is 2.61:1 low range, a significant difference if you run low range(I assume you do). The 205 is 1.96:1. Not sure if that would help you or not. If you couldn't run 3rd gear before, you definitely could now. For example, at 6000 RPM, 2nd gear with a 203 gives your combo 50 MPH tire speed (without slip), and 3rd gear with a 208 would give you 56 MPH tire speed. (2nd with the 203 is 74 MPH, and 2nd with the 208 is 38 MPH)

Tailshaft removal requires complete dissassemly of the trans pretty much, it's not hard, but it's one of those things where if the trans isn't fresh, you might as well rebuild it because the parts are cheap compared to the time to tear it out and apart. Although if it was fresh, just tearing it down and putting the trans back together without any parts replacement could be done in a 2 hours I would guess, which probably means 4. (My wife always doubles my garage estimates).

You may be better off finding a whole TH400/NP208 assembly. Then you could have it all ready to go ahead of time and swap it in one day on the weekend.

 

[YZEATER]

my trans has already been built by the previous owner in 2004-2005? i have a thread on here from when i bought it. it's a full manual reverse valve body. i didn't have any receipts from the tranny build ( i did for the 383 engine, has been since redone) . i think it had some high dollar stuff put in it too. it still works perfect, but i'm sure if i took it somewhere they'd want to freshen it up.

 

[folkenheath]

my trans has already been built by the previous owner in 2004-2005? i have a thread on here from when i bought it. it's a full manual reverse valve body. i didn't have any receipts from the tranny build ( i did for the 383 engine, has been since redone) . i think it had some high dollar stuff put in it too. it still works perfect, but i'm sure if i took it somewhere they'd want to freshen it up.

If that's the case just do it youself, you can get the ATSG manual for $25 or so. It's not that bad as long as you keep the stuff in the same order you'll be fine. And tilt the trans on it's side after you remove the center support bolt (under the valve body) It's a lot easier to remove the center support/planetary assembly with it on it's side. Be sure to grab the smaller intermediate shaft (not the hollow sun shaft) and push on the tailshaft at the same time so it doesn't fall apart inside forcing you to figure out how all the torrington bearings and everything fit back in.

 

[jekquistk5]

The 203 is 2.0:1 low, the 208 is 2.61:1 low range, a significant difference if you run low range(I assume you do). The 205 is 1.96:1. Not sure if that would help you or not. If you couldn't run 3rd gear before, you definitely could now. For example, at 6000 RPM, 2nd gear with a 203 gives your combo 50 MPH tire speed (without slip), and 3rd gear with a 208 would give you 56 MPH tire speed. (2nd with the 203 is 74 MPH, and 2nd with the 208 is 38 MPH)

Tailshaft removal requires complete dissassemly of the trans pretty much, it's not hard, but it's one of those things where if the trans isn't fresh, you might as well rebuild it because the parts are cheap compared to the time to tear it out and apart. Although if it was fresh, just tearing it down and putting the trans back together without any parts replacement could be done in a 2 hours I would guess, which probably means 4. (My wife always doubles my garage estimates).

You may be better off finding a whole TH400/NP208 assembly. Then you could have it all ready to go ahead of time and swap it in one day on the weekend.

The soon to be wife triples my estimates. She saw the truck the first time in like 3 months and went "what have you done? There is nothing left!"


Also I hear yah on the whole rebuild in the middle. The weather is just starting to get nice and I want to wheel pretty badly. Thinking about finishing the cage and throwing every thing back together rather than swapping trans, and putting in the new doubler.

 

[YZEATER]

If that's the case just do it youself, you can get the ATSG manual for $25 or so. It's not that bad as long as you keep the stuff in the same order you'll be fine. And tilt the trans on it's side after you remove the center support bolt (under the valve body) It's a lot easier to remove the center support/planetary assembly with it on it's side. Be sure to grab the smaller intermediate shaft (not the hollow sun shaft) and push on the tailshaft at the same time so it doesn't fall apart inside forcing you to figure out how all the torrington bearings and everything fit back in.

not sure i'm up to that, i'll look for and try to get a manual to look at and decide.

i just washed it from last weekend, and i definitly got to skin the bed out, i am sooo tired of cleaning under it.

 

[YZEATER]

finally got the bed off and gutted. look what i found under the mud.

got that fixed today and the bed halfway done.

can't tell from the side.

 

[79rustyk10]

What is the reasoning for moving them in?

 

[YZEATER]

i wanted to gut the bed, so mud doesn't collect under it anymore, easier to clean, and less weight by having less frame work by having them in.

i seen a pic once of a ford like that, and thought i would try it.

 

[folkenheath]

I like the skins, I think they look good, but I think you should move them back out flush with the body, then they would look even better.

When's the next race?

 

[YZEATER]

July 10th.

 

[blueblazes44]

Just remember.....rust weighs less than steel. Do you spray the frame and undercarriage before you run? Some folks here use hydro fluid, wd-40 and the likes to keep the mud from caking up during the run.

 

[YZEATER]

I don't spray anything on. I would have to clean the truck really well for it to work. I run so many times not sure it would work.

 

[YZEATER]

got this round of updates mostly done.

a 14bff drum weighs 36lb. a complete backing plate = 24lb. 10 bolt disk = 20lb , caliper and bracket = 14lb.

so it lost 86 lb total weight and 52lb in rotating weight. not sure how much weight i lost in the bed floor, x-members, and all the collected mud that i could never remove.

i removed 3 leafs on each pack, and it's alot softer now. when i was taking pics tonight i noticed somehow i didn't put the overload springs in opposite of each other. i'll fix it if i have to add or remove some leafs.

i still have to weld up the 14b yet.

found this when i pulled the drums.

no brakes on drivers side.

passenger side

got some pre-runner lean to help get some weight transfer to the rear to try and lighten the front end.

 

[blueblazes44]

Looks like Jenny Craig found you! Lean and mean looking and gaining HP by shaving weight. Wish I could do the same but cuttin/guttin not allowed in our street class.

 

[crash81]

nice rig

 

[folkenheath]

Cool idea with the spool and one disk, nice weight savings.

 

[YZEATER]

most places we race it goes by tire size. were allowed body mods.

i was curious to the weight of those parts so i pulled out the deer scale. i need to take the whole truck and get it weighed. i might be able to risk it, the scrap yard is only a 1/2 mile away.

 

[YZEATER]

vids from today. in the one vid, you can see the rear end hopping and not getting any traction. i think i need to add a leaf back into the rear pack, and may add some weight back into the rear most portion of the frame. also need to build a traction bar.

and this is the truck that consistently beats me.