CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Multi fuel?
- Thread starter y5mgisi
- Start date
A friend of mine had a multi fuel deuce. pretty sweet
no thay have a fuel density componsator in the injection pump. basicly self adjusts the fuel volume rate to the injectors for the thickness of the fuel.
some guys even do a up to 50 -50 mix of filtered used engine oil and fuel. but the heavy side of the mix tends to create lots of smoke from the exaust.
some guys even do a up to 50 -50 mix of filtered used engine oil and fuel. but the heavy side of the mix tends to create lots of smoke from the exaust.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Thats crazy. I thought that diesels were something like 18:1 CR?
Yep, and sometimes more yet. Throw the turbo on there and wow! How it doesn't just go boom on gasoline....
Right from the ad " This truck is a panty melter!"
WTF?
If that old thing got some poon all lathered up, I'll bet next months paycheck that no one wants anything to do with said tang!
Probably high maintenance and high mileage!
WTF?
If that old thing got some poon all lathered up, I'll bet next months paycheck that no one wants anything to do with said tang!
Probably high maintenance and high mileage!
four_by_ken
1/2 ton status
Yup, the multi fuel engines are great. Can run them on almost anything. Transmission fluid.. combination of stuff... but best on diesel for sure.
thay run on gas but not the best. power is lower and not the best.
I have a multifuel M35a2 duece. 100% used motor oil is no problem. Just about any hydrocarbon works. Laquer thinner is a no no because it eats the seals on the IP though.
The fuel density compensator or FDC is not what makes it a multi fuel. The FDC just adjust the amount of fuel going to the injectors based on the thickness of the fuel. As in a thin fuel like gasoline has less btu's, so more is injected. A thick fuel such as waste motor oil has more btu's and gets less injected. The FDC was an add on so the trucks would in theory have the same amount of power no matter what fuel.
I am new here and can't post links, but there is some pretty good information out there about the multifuel engines.
Pretty much, the piston has a hole or depression about the size of a golf ball in it. With what looks like a deformed golf ball inside the hole. The injector squirts the fuel on that ball. The ball is hot and the combustion starts in the depression. Slowly spreading to the rest of the cylinder. That way, any fuel can be burned at its own rate.
The turbo puts out little if any boost. They were added to reduce smoke, not add power. Maybe, 5psi at the most. Mine is the C model Whistler turbo which has a chest penetrating scream at any speed and basically makes you numb after hours of driving. I love it!
Oh, straight gasoline drops the mileage down to 2 or 3 mpg and the engine won't start on it cold. Diesel gives me about 9-11 mpg running 50-60 mph with black smoke at every shift. Waste motor oil is just a hair less mileage than diesel, but lots more smoke. If you get one, never run a parade on 100% WMO. I learned that the hard way.
The colder it gets out, the more diesel you need in the tank. Basically, anything below 20 degrees needs to be diesel with maybe some gasoline mixed in to thin it. Other than that, run what will burn.
The fuel density compensator or FDC is not what makes it a multi fuel. The FDC just adjust the amount of fuel going to the injectors based on the thickness of the fuel. As in a thin fuel like gasoline has less btu's, so more is injected. A thick fuel such as waste motor oil has more btu's and gets less injected. The FDC was an add on so the trucks would in theory have the same amount of power no matter what fuel.
I am new here and can't post links, but there is some pretty good information out there about the multifuel engines.
Pretty much, the piston has a hole or depression about the size of a golf ball in it. With what looks like a deformed golf ball inside the hole. The injector squirts the fuel on that ball. The ball is hot and the combustion starts in the depression. Slowly spreading to the rest of the cylinder. That way, any fuel can be burned at its own rate.
The turbo puts out little if any boost. They were added to reduce smoke, not add power. Maybe, 5psi at the most. Mine is the C model Whistler turbo which has a chest penetrating scream at any speed and basically makes you numb after hours of driving. I love it!
Oh, straight gasoline drops the mileage down to 2 or 3 mpg and the engine won't start on it cold. Diesel gives me about 9-11 mpg running 50-60 mph with black smoke at every shift. Waste motor oil is just a hair less mileage than diesel, but lots more smoke. If you get one, never run a parade on 100% WMO. I learned that the hard way.
The colder it gets out, the more diesel you need in the tank. Basically, anything below 20 degrees needs to be diesel with maybe some gasoline mixed in to thin it. Other than that, run what will burn.
Perhaps the passenger seat gets really hot?
I love those Dueces and 5 tons. I have heard they run on everything from Av Gas to Kerosene, but never heard of used motor oil. Very cool, gotta get me one someday.
I had also heard that the turbo does not improve mileage or power, just reduces smoke.
Barrman, get some more posts and then post up some pics!
I love those Dueces and 5 tons. I have heard they run on everything from Av Gas to Kerosene, but never heard of used motor oil. Very cool, gotta get me one someday.
I had also heard that the turbo does not improve mileage or power, just reduces smoke.
Barrman, get some more posts and then post up some pics!
AV gas is also a no no. I have not tried it personally, but all reports say a nice blue flame comes out the stack at speed with aviation fuel in the tank. I think that would be so cool! However, I don't want to set my truck on fire or the woods next to the road, so I have restrained myself.
I have had diesel, kerosene, gasoline, automatic transmission fluid, gear oil, new motor oil, used motor oil, an entire case of some fuel treatment somebody threw out in the tank. I just learned to filter and water strain real good. The truck has 3 fuel filters. I carry a pair of extra primary filters just in case something it too thick to go through and clogs it up.
I did all that when I got the truck a few years ago, since then I have been collecting oil and filtering. However, with diesel less than $3.00 per gallon compared to the $5.00 it was when I got the truck. I try to save the oil for when the Zombies come. Or a hurricane or just about anything else that might make getting cheap fuel possible. I have about 900 gallons ready to burn at this point. My wife calls all my barrels and tanks and pumps my little "refinery."
Which is actually the next step for clean oil. Heating the oil to about 300 degrees loosens it up enough that most contaminate fall out and moisture will evaporate. A centrifuge with a filter is actually the best way to do it. I haven't found a centifuge at a price I want yet.
This all ties into the Blazer world by the 6.2. Most of the people I am around with my 3 dueces, M715 and trailers also have M1009's. Most of them are buying spare engines for just about nothing. That lets them play with the 6.2 fuel. They say 30-40% diesel to WMO won't increase smoke any and it runs fine. Above 40% and smoke starts to show at all times. I don't have the spare 6.2 parts yet, so I am running what I buy at the pump.
Stay away from the ATF for the 6.2 as well since it has friction inhibitors in it. You really don't want stuff made to make things stick together going through your IP.
Yes, the turbo does not much of anything for performance. There are 3 models of the turbo. The first which was for the 427 LDT engine in the early 1960's that a person can't hear at all. It stops the smoke some.
The C model turbo is small and has real tight tolerances. It is the Whistler that I have and is just plain noisy. Better low rpm response though.
The D model is bigger and makes just a little noise when you shift gears. It has less low end grunt, but better on high speed hills (45-56 mph)
I have had diesel, kerosene, gasoline, automatic transmission fluid, gear oil, new motor oil, used motor oil, an entire case of some fuel treatment somebody threw out in the tank. I just learned to filter and water strain real good. The truck has 3 fuel filters. I carry a pair of extra primary filters just in case something it too thick to go through and clogs it up.
I did all that when I got the truck a few years ago, since then I have been collecting oil and filtering. However, with diesel less than $3.00 per gallon compared to the $5.00 it was when I got the truck. I try to save the oil for when the Zombies come. Or a hurricane or just about anything else that might make getting cheap fuel possible. I have about 900 gallons ready to burn at this point. My wife calls all my barrels and tanks and pumps my little "refinery."
Which is actually the next step for clean oil. Heating the oil to about 300 degrees loosens it up enough that most contaminate fall out and moisture will evaporate. A centrifuge with a filter is actually the best way to do it. I haven't found a centifuge at a price I want yet.
This all ties into the Blazer world by the 6.2. Most of the people I am around with my 3 dueces, M715 and trailers also have M1009's. Most of them are buying spare engines for just about nothing. That lets them play with the 6.2 fuel. They say 30-40% diesel to WMO won't increase smoke any and it runs fine. Above 40% and smoke starts to show at all times. I don't have the spare 6.2 parts yet, so I am running what I buy at the pump.
Stay away from the ATF for the 6.2 as well since it has friction inhibitors in it. You really don't want stuff made to make things stick together going through your IP.
Yes, the turbo does not much of anything for performance. There are 3 models of the turbo. The first which was for the 427 LDT engine in the early 1960's that a person can't hear at all. It stops the smoke some.
The C model turbo is small and has real tight tolerances. It is the Whistler that I have and is just plain noisy. Better low rpm response though.
The D model is bigger and makes just a little noise when you shift gears. It has less low end grunt, but better on high speed hills (45-56 mph)
Here is me driving a D turbo onto I-10 in Ft. Stockton two years ago. We were bringing a M109 which is the shop van version of a Duece back from Las Crueses. Except for when I am turning, the throttle is floored, so you can tell the power isn't all that much. 2600 rpm red line shifts. You can hear the turbo at the shifts.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5SPnXv4Vdwg
This is not mine, but if you want to hear the whistle. This one will do it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HsUfKHilqg&playnext_from=TL&videos=4UWqir8n7w8
Aviation Gasoline is what I was talking about making the flame. Aviation jet fuel is great on the other hand.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5SPnXv4Vdwg
This is not mine, but if you want to hear the whistle. This one will do it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HsUfKHilqg&playnext_from=TL&videos=4UWqir8n7w8
Aviation Gasoline is what I was talking about making the flame. Aviation jet fuel is great on the other hand.
mrluhman
1/2 ton status
I had a 5 ton and they are bad ass! The turbo whine is like music 
So how does an engine that runs on diesel and requires no spark plug and wires run on gasoline which requires both? 
So how does an engine that runs on diesel and requires no spark plug and wires run on gasoline which requires both?
www.steelsoldiers.com The engines do not "like" the other fuels but they will run, basically to get you out of danger.
So how does an engine that runs on diesel and requires no spark plug and wires run on gasoline which requires both?
Detonation.
