Multiple Power Window Questions...

[badmix]

1) First the first time in 8 years, my drivers side power window barely worked. It was very slow going up and stopped 1/2 way. I had to work the switch up and down while pulling on window to get it closed.

What could be wrong , Switch or motor?


2) Has anyone successfully converted doors from Power to manual? Im over the slow azz windows and want something more simplified. Does anyone know EXACTLY what parts I would need for the converstion? I actually want to eliminate wires all the way to the fuse box.

 

[toomany]

I swapped manual regulators into my 85 K20. Was pretty much a bolt in deal. Although, the motors that were in there had been replaced. I can't remember if the manual parts used the same holes or not. Hardest part is fighting with the power regulator getting it out.

 

[badmix]

Hope its a bolt in deal.

Oh ill get it out dont you worry. and ill chuck it as far as I can. lol.

 

[badmix]

Just ordered the regulators, tired of slow windows and possible failure all together, going to pull the wires all the way back to fuse panel.

Anyone have any tips or tricks to getting old stuff out and new stuff in?

Will glass have to be removed or just taped / Secured in the UP position?

Will old regulator unbolt and come out or drilling involved?

 

[Irish1941]

Just ordered the regulators, tired of slow windows and possible failure all together, going to pull the wires all the way back to fuse panel.

Anyone have any tips or tricks to getting old stuff out and new stuff in?

Will glass have to be removed or just taped / Secured in the UP position?

Will old regulator unbolt and come out or drilling involved?

Just finished rebuilding another pair of doors that went from power to manual. You'll have no problems.

-Manual window regulator uses 2 lower holes same as power stuff and 2 upper holes. You'll see as soon as you look. And no drilling needed at all.

-Window needs to come out but vent window can stay. Just loosen vent up as well as undo the bolts holding the lower window channel at the latch end of the door.

-Make sure power regulator is stopped at 90 degrees or you'll be fighting it trying to get it out for hrs. Remove the int door handle rod too as it gets in the way.
I would first make sure all the old gummed up grease is cleaned off and rollers are cleaned as well. Makes a huge difference. I use a heat gun to boil out the old grease. Use common sense here. Heat gun will melt the rollers if you aren't careful. I use good bearing grease on them.
Don't use lithium grease. It just turns to glue in a few months.

 

[badmix]

Thanks for the info, im going to convert to manual regardless, something Ive wanted to since ive owned, just to simplify things

 

[toomany]

Just finished rebuilding another pair of doors that went from power to manual. You'll have no problems.

-Manual window regulator uses 2 lower holes same as power stuff and 2 upper holes. You'll see as soon as you look. And no drilling needed at all.

-Window needs to come out but vent window can stay. Just loosen vent up as well as undo the bolts holding the lower window channel at the latch end of the door.

-Make sure power regulator is stopped at 90 degrees or you'll be fighting it trying to get it out for hrs. Remove the int door handle rod too as it gets in the way.
I would first make sure all the old gummed up grease is cleaned off and rollers are cleaned as well. Makes a huge difference. I use a heat gun to boil out the old grease. Use common sense here. Heat gun will melt the rollers if you aren't careful. I use good bearing grease on them.
Don't use lithium grease. It just turns to glue in a few months.

I left my windows in. The one time I did have a window out of a door...I couldn't figure out how to get it back in correctly.

I think when I did mine, I left the windows in and adjusted the arms on the regulator to fit how needed.

I'm sure that is more than one way to do it though. Once you get into it you'll see what is going to work for you.

 

[badmix]

Just got my regulators today. I have a question, is there a reason the edges have to RAZOR sharp. I just cut my thumb handling the stupid thing.

Well, im off thanksgiving week so ill tackle this project then, hope it goes easy. there isnt much to the regulator so dunno.

Any other tips or tricks?

 

[y5mgisi]

Its basically "easy". Just frustrating.

 

[K5Jimmy]

There will be blood ..... just sayin

 

[badmix]

There will be blood ..... just sayin

LoL..already is and I just took the stupid thing out of the package. I need some any stab/cut gloves apparently. Ive had hunting knives that didnt cut this good and clean.

 

[nutt7]

I know those regulators are spring assisted but I think that only matters if replacing the motor, and not the regulator/motor unit...I am not sure but I would hate to have the regulator arm robo-judo-chop your hand like my rear window regulator did to me. That crap hurt. My hand was half numb for a day and my pride hurt for a real long time...

 

[badmix]

I stopped by a body shop ive dealt with in the past, they give me decent deals on work. They did both regulators and replaced all the door seals for $50bux a door. I supplied the parts. They said it took two of them to get the regulator in and out and I was there when they were putting the seals in, it wasnt easy, especially getting the 30year old seals out. Normally I hate to spend money on something I know I can do myself but I felt it was worth it and no bloody hands .

 

[y5mgisi]

Thats a deal!

 

[badmix]

Just got done with the wiring, they actually made this all Plug and Play, was super easy to get the wires out and they just basically stabbed the fuse panel in the PWR ACC. spot.

I just either got to cover the switch holes with something or get new door panels, I think it will be cheaper to put a nice alum plate or something over the switch holes.

Oh and the door feels lighter too. lol