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My 97 k-2500 Has the hiccups

Cornfield creations

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Oct 19, 2005
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Jasper, Indiana
It's a 350. When I drive down the road it hiccups. What I call it. Intermittant misses. A code popped up finally yesterday. It was the 1342 camshaft sensor crankshaft sensor correlation problem. So I checked the distributor and I tried moving it, (in the parking lot, it didn't move). But while I was playing with it the code went off ( I had our Snap on scanner on it the whole time). It drove fine again for the rest of the day. But started up again this evening.

Do the camshaft sensors inside the distributor go bad in these engines? Or should I try moving the distributor some and see if that helps?
 
the only thing it will do by moving the distributor is to syncronize the cam/crank, you should have a line in the data that show cam sync, IIRC it should be close to 0, turn the dist a bit and rev it up, IIRC, when you turn the dist, it won't show any change in the sync until you rev it above 2k rpm.
 
Check retard value at atleast 1200 RPM and it should be +/- 2 of zero



I was having this problem before. I had the distributor turned too much when I set it in. I turned it counter clockwise and the light went off and it ran fine. It had been running great. I put some new O2 sensors in on friday,post cats, and it started running like this. It'll run fine, then it'll seem to miss. When it gets hot it gets worse. It is really bad driving in overdrive down the highway, it feels like someone is pounding on the truck and you can hear the miss in the exhaust. My scanner is the MT2500, it isn't a graphing scanner so I can't view that information.
 
I checked the cam retard, at idle it is a -6, and the spark advance is around 23, when I rev it up the cam retard stays the same and the spark advance goes up to around 29. When holding around 2000 RPM's. Does that sound about right?
 
Cam retard needs to be +/- 2 degrees within 0 degrees...

Try to get it within spec and see if that corrects the issue
 
Cam retard needs to be +/- 2 degrees within 0 degrees...

Try to get it within spec and see if that corrects the issue

Ok, I figured that it was off a tooth. So I took it out and set it back in. One tooth, and it jumped the cam retard up to +30!!, I turned the distributor as far as I could to counter it and got it down to +11. How could it jump up that far by moving it one tooth?

Just for reference, When you drop in these distributors, You set it on TDC on 1, Then point the rotor towards the number 1 cylinder? Just like the older engines? Or is there something different that I am missing?

Is there a different procedure?
 
there should be a little triangle type tab on the distributor (#6 on it maybe) and that should line up when you are on TDC #1
 

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