CK5
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My bobbed Suburban hatchback build.

Some random shots of cage placement near seats.

Wanted to maintain the original seat belts, so cage was designed with this in mind.
Rear seats fold up and lock down using the original bench seat hooks, but mounted on floor brackets.
Makes easy access to essentials stored under them!

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Engine mounted York compressor unit etc.

On board air system,(home made) easily runs an impact gun and airs big tires up fast!
Stainless tube lines from front to back and stainless braided lines from tubes to pump and to tank.
There is a quick connect for the coiled air hose on the front bumper and just inside the driver side rear door.

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Other stuff of interest?

in the last photo you can see the rear disk conversion, and
custom rear shackle flip to get the extra 2 " of lift out of my 4" lift rear springs to match the 6" front springs.
Both Dif covers are 1/2 " thick plate with recessed bolts!
Ram assist cylinder mount was an experiment that works very well!

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Nice Build Im interested in that Top. did you build that as well is there a Build up of that? WE are in the Planning stage of a Burb build and That is awesome as well as the rest of the Ride.
 
Other stuff of interest?

PSC steering reservoir mounted.
Fast Fuel System brain location.
Dual Odyssey dry cell batteries.
Home made "funnel" Aluminum intake, may eventually be turned into a snorkel.
Hinged access door in the fuel tank cover for easy access to the in-tank pump and sending unit.

Yes this beast still has working AC.:D
Came in very handy when the Wife and I drove to Utah to wheel with Bill Burk's Adventures this past May.

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Good god man! Its got everything and the kitchen sink. Damm! This rig just keeps getting better with every post.
 
Awesome build, looks like you covered all the bases. Excellent execution, design , and fab work.
 
Final build details...?

If there is any detail photos required for those interested, just let me know what you need to see.

Never did post shots of the new ZZ383 stroker with the Fast system and Ceramic coated shorty headers.

It was barely broken in before we left Ontario to drive to Moab......

Last shots show the air chuck (look close near the shackle)on the front bumper and the new location of the original fuel filler neck, after relocating the large factory tank over the rear axle.

That's all for the build, I think...:confused:

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Did you build the pulley to mount the on board air in front of the serpentine?

Martin
 
Yes Sir.
Took a good pulley, cutout the center in a lathe to get the correct offset and tacked it first to make sure it was true before welding it.
 
That was the same way I was thinking about adding a York to mine and keeping the AC.

I would be interested in seeing more pictures of the whole setup, if you had time.

Martin
 
No Problem Martin!
I'll take some detailed shots tonight and load them up in the morning.
 
exceedingly freaking awesome!!!!:bow::bow::bow::eek1::eek1::eek1:
 
in the last photo you can see the rear disk conversion, and
custom rear shackle flip to get the extra 2 " of lift out of my 4" lift rear springs to match the 6" front springs.
Both Dif covers are 1/2 " thick plate with recessed bolts!
Ram assist cylinder mount was an experiment that works very well!

Love your shackle flip! How did you make those diff covers??? :dunno:
 
Love your shackle flip! How did you make those diff covers??? :dunno:
I"ll post some pics in the morning.
The skin is 1 piece of 1/2" steel with 4 cut outs to allow me to form the required shape.
A plasma cut flange was cut to the Diff cover bolt surface profile and the skin continually adjusted in a press until it fit the flange. At this point it was all welded inside and out.
Next a block was welded to the exterior face so I could hold it securely in a vice.
Seal surface was then machined in a mill to be truly flat.
Next the holes were transfer punched from a pattern made from the original cover.
Bolt holes were drilled from the flange side with an extended end mill to stay straight when they broke through the contoured side.
A jig tool was then used to line up the holes for counter boring from the outside surface, deep enough to protect the bolt heads.
Drill and tap for fill hole.
Grind and sand smooth to look like it was stamped.
Finally sandblast and paint.
Only silicone to seal.
Install and not worry about damage...lol
 
I"ll post some pics in the morning.
The skin is 1 piece of 1/2" steel with 4 cut outs to allow me to form the required shape.
A plasma cut flange was cut to the Diff cover bolt surface profile and the skin continually adjusted in a press until it fit the flange. At this point it was all welded inside and out.
Next a block was welded to the exterior face so I could hold it securely in a vice.
Seal surface was then machined in a mill to be truly flat.
Next the holes were transfer punched from a pattern made from the original cover.
Bolt holes were drilled from the flange side with an extended end mill to stay straight when they broke through the contoured side.
A jig tool was then used to line up the holes for counter boring from the outside surface, deep enough to protect the bolt heads.
Drill and tap for fill hole.
Grind and sand smooth to look like it was stamped.
Finally sandblast and paint.
Only silicone to seal.
Install and not worry about damage...lol
sounds like you have the coolest tools!!! :eek1::waytogo::D
 
sounds like you have the coolest tools!!! :eek1::waytogo::D
I have a fully equipped custom steel fab shop.
Mostly industrial customers and prototype work.
My guys look after the regular stuff so I can do the custom 4x4 stuff.
The truck stuff is still my passion.
Some of this stuff has been a major challenge even with the shops equipment.
 

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