y5mgisi
1 ton status
So heres a question for this specific repair, should i use body filler on the bare metal or glazing putty over the primer?
CK5
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My "body work" thread.
- Thread starter y5mgisi
- Start date
Let me just say what keeps being hammered into me...just this morning I got corrected on this by a few...
Always fix stuff from the bottom up...you should clean the metal, then fill the metal, then prime, then glaze (if needed), if glaze used then spot prime with 2k again. That way you have fixed the "foundation".
Glazing putty is not meant to fill anything more than pinhole or minor blemish.
I have also seen this on my Blazer...in a tiny dime sized area behind the windsheild moulding it had pitted...I sandblasted it clean and then sprayed primer on it. I saw that the 2k primer seemed to be enough to cover it...now, a few months later after it has really dried and shrank, those pits are very visible (it is still in an area that won't be seen) but if it were it could have been painted already and those pits just appear out of nowhere when everything dried and shrank...
I could use glaze, but I'd have to 2k prime again...if I had filled it first like I should have there would be no problem now...
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Thanks chief!
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Ok so heres what happened today... Made a couple judgement calls and made what might be considered the wrong choice but it works for me and it was after doing some research. I ended up just wire bushing any remaining rust out of the pits which worked better than i expected. After that, i decided to fill the pits with body filler. At that point, enough of the surface was covered by filler that i got nervous about using the ryoken green over it. So after doing a little more reseach i decided that the less desirable zinc phosphate might actually be "better" for me in this particular application. I figure at the worst i will end up sanding and patching that area in the end anyway... So, i did the body filler, "self etching primer", and some sandable primer. Thats as far as i got before work. Tomorrow i plan on laying down the paint and starting to work on painting the top white.
Keep in mind, this isnt meant to look "good" exactly but just look better than the rust and stop the rust from continuing.
Keep in mind, this isnt meant to look "good" exactly but just look better than the rust and stop the rust from continuing.
so did you put anything in the pits to stop the rust?
If not then you just made it a new crop waiting to burst.
If not then you just made it a new crop waiting to burst.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Not exactly. It looked like all perfect metal with no rust after the wire brushing. We'll see how it goes...
There is no such thing.
Always put something to stop rust after you remove rust, oxides are tiny and could be as little as dust stuck in the porus metal and will start as soon as it gets the chance under the paint and will bubble up again.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Was the primer i laid down not enough? What else would i put on bare metal before primer to stop the rust? I was under the impression that thats what the "self etching" primer was for.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Or are you saying that this is specific to metal where rust once was?
if it wasn't blasted, a converter would have probably been a good idea... self etching does nothing for rust, it just bites into stuff... but hopefully you got it clean enough...
for future reference, if you have filler, with a bit of bare around it, there's nothing "wrong" with using Ryoken green on it... it's just a bit unnecessary over the filler, but no harm done...
for future reference, if you have filler, with a bit of bare around it, there's nothing "wrong" with using Ryoken green on it... it's just a bit unnecessary over the filler, but no harm done...
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Bagh! I thought i had read that ryoken green(RG-Maybe we could start calling it RG for short? anyway,) would not bond properly to the filler and that it would need sanded off the filler. In my research and googling, i had found where people had said that while the RG is supeiror, that the Zinc phosphate garb seemed to adhere better to filler as it was more of a primer than a corrosion inhibitor. Oh well... We'll see how it goes. If i end up selling it i will give the buyer a full disclosure of what i have done, and if i keep it, i would really like to cut out those parts anyway as the metal was very thin in some spots. Regardless i think it will last the few years i (or the next owner) needs it to before re-painting the whole truck.
I think it's the other way around...I think filler doesn't like the Ryoken Green and won't adhere to it good...
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I think that is the case, but i thought it was also true in reverse.
it gets confusing, but I don't think 2k primer has a problem with it because you are spraying 2k over zinced bare metal areas that weren't filled...
yup, don't put filler over RG, it no stick good...
y5mgisi
1 ton status
FAIL! Oh boy... So i had this big roll of "masking tape" for years and have never had a chance to use it until now. Turns out, its not masking tape. It's adhesive transfer paper! So now I have tape glue all over the side of the Damn truck. Fortunately, it comes off fairly easy but not real easy...
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Oh you think its sooo funny!!! Well its all fun and games until someone gets hurt!
And i havent gotten hurt yet so i guess its still funny!
And i havent gotten hurt yet so i guess its still funny!
Thats funny, you can see the problem in the first pic. That coffee mug appears to have coffee in it. Now mitch crack a beer and finish the job.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Beer makes everything better! I'll try that out and get back to you.
