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My brake fluid is so old that....

Big Ray

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...when my son put new pads on the rear tuesday it boils so easily that I'm flooring it by the time I get home from work 'cause they're dragging so bad!!! (3.5 miles...):haha::haha:




There goes my saturday.....:D
 
Tell him that the rough side goes towards the rotor, not the steel side......

Actually, you should lose brakes when the fluid boils.

When the vapor forms, it acts like air in the system.
There should not be any pressure buildup, since the fluid will just flow back into the master cylinder.

I am thinking that you have a different problem.
 
Here's the next question;did your son put the correct fluid in the system?Could be contaminated(swelling) seals from the wrong fluid or the drums are over adjusted and burning up if you have drums rear.
 
Well I flushed the fluid today...It come out looking like used motor oil....I think it was oem, from '99...:doah:


They're much better now, however the rotors are glazed. I'll have to change them during the week...I have disc all around. I lubed the caliper pins, no problems there.

My boy didn't mess with the fluid. He just changed the rear pads when he had to change gears at home.
 
fyi the gm brake fluid in the newer rigs is a dark green stock these days. so looks can make you think otherwise. but yes 99 and still oem fluid needs to be changed.
 
Well I flushed the fluid today...It come out looking like used motor oil....I think it was oem, from '99...:doah:


They're much better now, however the rotors are glazed. .

you'll never get rid of that either, unless they're out or round, or severly grooved, i'd leave em alone.
 
fyi the gm brake fluid in the newer rigs is a dark green stock these days. so looks can make you think otherwise. but yes 99 and still oem fluid needs to be changed.

Good to know that, I feel just a little relieved about the situation :waytogo:

you'll never get rid of that either, unless they're out or round, or severly grooved, i'd leave em alone.

Really?
Hmm...


I would have them turned, but vato zone quit doing it...They got rid of their brake lathe...My boy can get em for 37$ each...I think I'll swap 'em and forget about it for 11 more years...:D
 
what i meant by the glazing comment, is sure, when you have them turned, you get a nice new surface, and also a thinner rotor afterwards, then you install them, drive for 50 miles or so, and guess what, the rotor is smooth again.

I used to have rotors turned about every other brake job because i'd hear about this "glazing" of the rotors, then realized, it really did nothing except take any grooves and out of roundness out of it, and made it thinner...

So unless i can feel the brake pedal pulsating, or for some reason i ran the pads too thin and gouged the rotors, i don't turn them, haven't had one turned on my Burb since i bought it, almost 10 years and around 98,000 miles of MY driving.. :o

I am very strict on my brake jobs, i usually check them every few months, and if they don't get changed before their time, i ALWAYS change them when i hear the warning tab start to chirp on the rotors.
 
99 with discs? Calipers are bad. They are on national back order right now. Typical brake job on the rear of those trucks, pads, rotors, and calipers.

When you put in fluid be sure to use DOT 3-4. NOT DOT 5. DOT 5 is a totally different composition and will ruin everything in your brake system. People hear synthetic and higher heat range and thinks it's better, but the base fluid+additives will swell up everything rubber in your system
 

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