My brother wants to build small mall crawler!

[GsxrMike]

My 17 year old little brother has an 88 S10 blazer and he wants to put about a 6" lift with a little bigger tire on it. He called me today and asked how he should go about doing so. He wants it mostly for looks and maybe some straight line mud holes (small mud holes). I told him a 3" body lift and 3" suspension lift to get to the 6"s but I don't know what he will need as far as steering, wiring harnesses, etc. I'm not familiar with his vehical so i'm up for any help. He is 17 so he has very limited funds (about $600). He may be will to go with a smaller lift if will save us some headaches. Thanks!

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Suspension lifts for any IFS will far exceed his budget.

The 3" body lift is probably the best way to go, just make sure you do it right (i.e. make sure the steering connection still has enough engagement, make sure the shifters still work, make sure the fan doesn't hit the shroud, etc.).

Bigger tires on a stock S10 front end is probably asking for trouble, they make 10 bolts look strong

 

[GsxrMike]

Ahh! I forgot about IFS! Has anyone put a 3" body lift on an s10 blazer? What problems did you encounter? Thanks again!

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Try searching here.

I've lifted up the body of an S10 before (for motor replacement) but I've never put a lift on one.

 

[TDAWG1]

Got a guy down here with one he just put on 3" body lift and is about to put on 2 or 3 " suspension we finally talked him into going full width axles. Scored Dana 44 Front and rear. There is a website for the lil guys and about straight axle conversions. Soon as I remember what iit is I will post it up.

 

[Pvt. Maggot]

Do a 3 inch body lift, and crank the torsion bars up front, and add a block in the rear.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Do a 3 inch body lift, and crank the torsion bars up front, and add a block in the rear.

Bad for a street driven rig (or any rig, really) IMO

 

[Pvt. Maggot]

As long as you don't go overboard its not bad, you can get about 2 inches safely without worrying about cv's.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

As long as you don't go overboard its not bad, you can get about 2 inches safely without worrying about cv's.

I meant that its bad for ride quality, its bad for the tires and its bad for the torsion bars.

The torsion bars have x amount of twist in them (before they yield and fail), "cranking the torsion bars up" takes nearly all of the uptravel out of the suspension and changes the alignment. It also puts lots of load on the torsion bars all the time (which will make them fail many times faster than they would at the stock position).

 

[Pvt. Maggot]

An allignment is needed after cranking them, It does make the ride rougher, but its a cheap way to get lift, I know of alot of people that do it, and they have had no problems, but if money allows its better to do it the right way.

 

[Drey]

Well if 88 S10 Blazer have the same front suspension as the 96s do...have fun. I never cranked my Tbars and Im just running 235s. Ive busted teh swaybar mounts 3 times. Murdered a cv shaft, trashed the ball joints and idler steering arm.

Id advise a SAS swap or to get a different rig.

 

[blowedupmotor87]

My buddy had an (80 something 2.8L, stick shift) S-10 Blazer with a 3" body lift and 31" mud tires, we had a lot of fun wheeling it! It surprised me where it could go!

 

[Masiony]

first off, s10's are sua in the rear, a block would actually lower it.

the common thing to do it crank the front bars up 1.5-2" and no more, with a lift shackle out back. combine that with a 3" BL, and you have an easy and cheap 5" lift. true suspension lifts for s10's cost more than the trucks probably worth, with the cheapest ive seen them go for (5" kit) is $1500 with a regular retail of $2100+. i ran 32's with the stock suspension (no lift) and very minor trimming in my 89 blazer, and it never missed a beat other than one rear broken shaft (welded rear end and bouncing it).

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

ok first is a body lift. for a street rig if the mounts are solid not a huge deal...when they get rusty cut em out and weld in new...or get that thing off the street...and superlift make a kit to allow for cranking torsion bars as it realigns the upper ball joints and adds new upper A arms.

 

[GsxrMike]

Thanks for all the help guys...this is my brother's DD so he wants to keep it nice and decided not to mess with it.

 

[Masiony]

ok first is a body lift. for a street rig if the mounts are solid not a huge deal...when they get rusty cut em out and weld in new...or get that thing off the street...and superlift make a kit to allow for cranking torsion bars as it realigns the upper ball joints and adds new upper A arms.

the 2" lift kits are crap for s10's. they basically allow you to totally destroy the front end from over cranking the t-bars, plus they basically give you no suspension because the bars are maxed out. plus, they usually come with an AAL that makes the rear suspension equally as stiff. the only good thing about them is the control arms they come with. s10 guys like to buy just those arms and use them with other lift kits.