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My buddy got stuck...UPDATED BLOWN MOTOR PICS 12/27

GsxrMike

GsxrMike

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So we just got a new tranny swapped in my buddys K5 and he tried to take it though my mud hole. I have 38.5 boggers and he has 36 TSLs. He got stuck real good. We couldn't pull him out with a duramax, super duty, or my blazer so we called in a BIG A$$ tractor. While I was pulling him a different buddy decided to jump in and ran his motor up to about 6000rpm for about 5 minutes and then he let out of the throttle and got right back into the throttle and something went BOOM and the engine locked up. WHOO Fing HOO! Now we get to swap motors today. Here are a few pics for your viewing pleasure...

Rear axle buried...
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B stuck in the hole...
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Caaaboooom!

Motor is trash. Two of his poly locks had backed off and so he was running on 6 cylinders. Rear pistons had been hitting the crank for some time. Rod let go at about 6000rpm and came up and broke the cam into 3 pieces. Blew out the rear cam plug dealy. Broke the block and some how in all of this the cylinders filled with coolant.

Pics for you viewing pleasure...
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So we "slapped" together a 355 he had traded for something a while back. New rings, bearings, whole nine yards. The motor is really tight because we didn't check any clearences but oh well it will losen up. We got the darn thing put back in his K5 and tried and tried to get it fired up with no luck. 3 batteries later at 4:00am we decided to call it quits. After a couple few hours of sleep I started thinking that we ought to do a compression check and #1 had 20psi and #2 had 0psi. Bent valves. Chitty... looking for very CHEEP heads right now. Anybody have any ideas? He might be able to get some center bolt heads for $50. Either that or maybe go back with his port matched double humps with new valves and a valve job.
 
So, one buddy blew up his other buddys motor? Why the fock would he hit the throttle so hard?
 
Go looking for 882 Castings from late 70's 350's. These are really good flowing heads and make very good power. I use them on my 7000RPM Camaro motor.
 
GsxrMike said:
So we "slapped" together a 355 he had traded for something a while back. New rings, bearings, whole nine yards. The motor is really tight because we didn't check any clearences but oh well it will losen up. We got the darn thing put back in his K5 and tried and tried to get it fired up with no luck. 3 batteries later at 4:00am we decided to call it quits. After a couple few hours of sleep I started thinking that we ought to do a compression check and #1 had 20psi and #2 had 0psi. Bent valves. Chitty... looking for very CHEEP heads right now. Anybody have any ideas? He might be able to get some center bolt heads for $50. Either that or maybe go back with his port matched double humps with new valves and a valve job.
Click to expand...

Are you sure you put all the rod caps on correctly? How abiout the main caps? If any of those are on backwards or even on the wrong rod or journal the engine will be TIGHT. This engine WILL NOT last long like this.

You killed 3 batteries from trying to get it to turn over?
 
No, it would turn over ok but wouldn't start except for once for a short period. I guess they didn't know the rod caps were directional. We fit them a couple of differant ways on differant rods but none of them seemed to line up, so we just put them on (I was in and out during this process because I had to hang out with my wife because she was leaving for a cruise for 11 days, I am usually the anal one getting crap for wanting everything to be right). I think the main caps had little arrows that pointed to the front of the motor right? I don't think he was planning on this motor running for real long. Thats why I said "slapped together". It was a learning experince for me and didn't cost a thing (from me).

We got the new heads on tonight but were having problems with the roller rockers hanging up on the heads so I am going to put longer pushrods in tomorrow. I think the cam might be junk by the time we get this thing started because it is a new hydrolic flat tappet and with all of the cranking we have done I don't think it has had much oil and zero chance of breaking in.

Should oil flow through the heads if the motor is cranked for 10-15 seconds?

I have my own idea of why the old motor blew up. From what I have read a high volume oil pump can run an oil pan dry right? We he has a high volume oil pump and the motor was run at 6000rpm for like 5 minutes and I think it starved the 7 and 8 rod bearings of oil causing them to overheat and expand which only compounded the problem.

Are the rod caps specific to the rod or just directional?

Sorry for the long post...
 
Rod caps and main caps are specific to their original location and also in the case of a chevy the tangs of the cap go on the same side as the tang of the rod. There should not be any arrows on the main caps from the factory. Some late model blocks did have the main caps numbered but never was a rod and rod cap marked from the factory.
 
:DNot poking fun, giggling my a$$ of at all your hijinks!:D
Don't take it personal. These days I'm too lazy to even go wheelin'. I live vicariously through the actions of others.
 
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