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My build-DOWN thread...

Why not have a few more pics?
before
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after
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y5mgisi said:
Tough to tell but i have been spending alot of time cleaning up the engine compartment.
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Not at all man, I just picked up an 84 6.2 burb that looks just like that except not nearly as clean. That engine compartment and interior is focking pristine. Awesome truck:thumb:
 
Well i cant sleep... how about more pics?

About a mile from Ukiah Oregon.
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same spot different view.
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Just love the grills on these trucks!
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During the cleaning.
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This is how rich its running... all that black spackling was from about 2 minutes of running.
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were you reving it? My 305 used to do that when i reved it in the garage. I did that next to my sister's car once, didn't realize it and ruined her paint job :doah:
 
ryoken said:
you can be more aggressive than that... for an initial rough cut I'd hit that with something in the 50 to 80 grit range.. and just keep wailing on it... get as much off as you possibly can.... if you get everything out, just give it a quickie with some 150 to 180 before priming to pull the heavy cut out of it... primers like nothing more than about a 200 cut to stick to... I put zinc right over 80 grit sometimes... 600 is for prepping primer for lacquer or base, or an initial buff-cut on paint..

if you still have some pitting after heavy DA'ing there are a couple approaches.... you can, and i usually do, continue the mechanical approach and hit the pit areas with a roloc grinder edge, or even lightly nip them with a carbide burr in a die grinder... then re-DA the areas to smooth them out as best as possible... just be aware that this may require some heavy primer to fill, or even a bit of glazing putty between prime coats to fill...

you can also treat any remaining pits with some Phosphoric Acid.. this is a subject all unto itself.. there are varying products and materials that can be used... from gels like naval jelly and Bullfrog to straight phospo acid in varying percentages.. usually it's a matter of scrubbing withe a scuff pad or bronze wool, and waiting... if you decide to do this on any remaining pits, get back to me and we can discuss specific products...
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To add to what Ryoken said if its still pitted and you dont want to dig at it you could give it a coat of spray mud after you remove the initial surface. I'm not a body guy but I would think some sort of sealer/rust inhibitor may be in order to play it safe no?

We're doing a 71 pickup resto rod here at work for a kid that works here in his spare time and his frame was terribly pitted. 1 coat of spray mud and lots of sanding and it looks like glass...

Not my cup of tea to spend 2 weeks on but it does look nice.
 
I was wondering about that. Something like a POR15 or something. We will have to wait and see how bad it actually is after i do a little sanding.
 
in reference to rust treatments, POR15, spray filler, etc....

I wouldn't recommend any of that.... if you have any rust left after mechanical, i'd go phospo and get rid of the rest... but IF you left rust in the pits I'd treat it with some converter, then continue on with primer, etc...

I would NEVER use an encapsulator like POR15 on exterior sheetmetal, never..

if you mechanically remove all the rust, you can just prime and paint it.. if you wanna be fancy you could use a metal conditioner on the raw steel... but that is strictly for clean steel, it does nothing for rust in the pits..

as to sprayable filler... tho a neat product, it shouldn't be necessary for pits... a heavy prime coat sanded, then reprimed should take care of it.... if not glazing putty would be all thats necessary... i use sprayable fillers (otherwise known as sprayable fairing compound) at work on the boats a good bit... filling untreated pits with rust in em isn't the best idea, eventually you'll have faliure spots... clean raw steel with really deep pits (if say, it was media blasted) and some low spots, sure i might consider it... fiberglass stuff is DEFINITELY where you see it used most...
 
ryoken said:
in reference to rust treatments, POR15, spray filler, etc....

I wouldn't recommend any of that.... if you have any rust left after mechanical, i'd go phospo and get rid of the rest... but IF you left rust in the pits I'd treat it with some converter, then continue on with primer, etc...

I would NEVER use an encapsulator like POR15 on exterior sheetmetal, never..

if you mechanically remove all the rust, you can just prime and paint it.. if you wanna be fancy you could use a metal conditioner on the raw steel... but that is strictly for clean steel, it does nothing for rust in the pits..

as to sprayable filler... tho a neat product, it shouldn't be necessary for pits... a heavy prime coat sanded, then reprimed should take care of it.... if not glazing putty would be all thats necessary... i use sprayable fillers (otherwise known as sprayable fairing compound) at work on the boats a good bit... filling untreated pits with rust in em isn't the best idea, eventually you'll have faliure spots... clean raw steel with really deep pits (if say, it was media blasted) and some low spots, sure i might consider it... fiberglass stuff is DEFINITELY where you see it used most...
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Yeah said example of mine was a totally sandblasted clean frame.
 
yeah, a frame is a bit different....

I could tell ya some stories about sprayable fillers from back in the day....... homemade sprayables and such... WAY back when, before they actually had products designed for that, we would actually thin out glazing putty (lacquer in those days, the infamous red Nitrostain) and spray it.... thats all it really was to begin with, was primer without the reducers....

I do ALOT of custom fairing applications on the boats, ESPECIALLY with gelcoat..... as a polyester, it's a GREAT product to do alot of crazier applications with......
 
Im super super antsy to get back on this thing!!! I got a buddys car in my garage right now and the weather here sucks... So, I gotta wait another couple-few weeks until we get his car wrapped up before i can start my body work! Poop.
 
I like it man, when I bought my truck I had every intention to lift it and make it nasty, but now I think im gonna keep it just looking nice. Idk I like the look of these trucks the way they rolled off the lot, but with beefier tires. I want my truck to perform like a big lifted truck, but look like a normal truck. I think it would be cool to roll up to the sand dunes next to a big lifted truck, in my "stock" looking truck, and just blow them away. Thats my dream anyway haha.
 
Finally got this thing back in the garage. I plan on first checking out the flex plate. Then maybe pulling the t-case and re sealing it. Then, its on to the body... I dont look forward to that even a little bit... i dunno. I just want to get the thing drivable without being totally embarrassed behind the wheel. Im just going to keep fiddle farting around with it. I kinda wanna tear it down far enough to where i cant drive it so its a permanent project that i cant keep postponing. But again, plans change daily it seems.
 
Well, i finally crawled under the truck to try and identify the "knock" Sure enough each of the three torque converter bolts were about a turn loose! Tightened them up and now hopefully it wont knock. Also wired up the heated o2 properly. Also tightened up some other bolts that were loose under there. A strange one was the ones that bolt the engine cross member to the motor mount plate. It looks like there is a lot of movement going on down there. There is a lot of rivets and places where two pieces come together where it looks like they are moving against each other. Like the joints are flexing. I'll try and take some pics that illustrate what im talking about.
 
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