My Fab'd up 10bolt "bolt on" rear truss.

[badmix]

Finally got it back from the welders.

My cover plate bracket

Splitting the supports for the axle tubes

Welded up and ready for primer/paint

When I punched the holes, I guess I had the plate twisted a lil and its off a lil bit, it still works but something id keep in mind next go around

Mocked up prior to primer/paint

In primer. Its getting 2 coats of primer, wait 24hrs and then hit it with two coats of paint. I figure ill got semi flat black but who knows.

Ill get updated pics once Ive got it mounted up.

 

[supermotard750]

Cool idea how tight does it hold the axle tube? Enough to keep the tube from twisting in the housing?

 

[badmix]

Its going to be as tight as you can get a grade 8 bolt. I had to use an impact wrench to remove it when I got it back from fab shop. I also split the pipe and took a lil extra out so there would be a small gap so youd have the room to squeeze it down around the tube for a tight fit.

One Idea I had was to weld a very short bolt or stop on the center of the axle tube directly and then have a hole in the bottom plate to act as a stop, so the tube couldnt rotate, it would be very similar to the top plate on leaf spring setup.

This of course would make the truss a NON bolt on item, but welding on a stop wouldnt take much effort at all. And it might be something I go ahead and do anyways.

I decided I wont make anymore of these to sell or such but anyone is welcome to copy the idea if they choose to. Its pretty simple. I know people wonder about me doing this to a 10bolt. Well, I dont plan to change my axle any time soon and thought it would be a nice simple lil project to do and extra strength is always a plus, whether I really needed it or not.

 

[big dan]

Looks good. I bet that they way you built it you can clamp it down tight enough to keep the tubes from rotating.

On a side note, I like your diff cover. Is it aluminum?

 

[badmix]

Looks good. I bet that they way you built it you can clamp it down tight enough to keep the tubes from rotating.

On a side note, I like your diff cover. Is it aluminum?

Thanks , itll clamp down really tight. Yea the diff cover front and rear are 1/2-3/4" thick aluminum. I got it from Randys Pinion when I ordered my Chromoly axle shafts, locker and everything to rebuild the axle. I like it.

 

[munepit]

Looks good. Looks like something a vendor would be selling. Is that where you got the idea.

 

[big pappa b]

It should clamp on tight. I have a similar design on my 14b. This one was done by MOO..Missouri Offroad. Out of biz I believe

 

[supermotard750]

That's the one in the product reviews of ck5 right

 

[big pappa b]

I had to go look but yes it is

 

[badmix]

Looks good. Looks like something a vendor would be selling. Is that where you got the idea.

I got the idea from a few different places. I just went to Google images and typed in "Axle truss" and took it from there and tried to come up with my own version that looked good and would function. This also opens me up to be able to either 4 link the truck later or connect a ladder bar. If I were to 4 link it, Id probably consider a front plate.

 

[badmix]

All painted and installed. Looks good. I used SS hose clamp for the brake line, if i ever redo my steel brake lines, ill reroute them to a better position. Im still using the factory T junction that bolts to the top of the differential.

I left the "front" alone. I had a couple options, one was to put a plate and then have some plate bent and use a leaf spring U bolt to attach to the front "nose" of the axle, but I also may look at 4 linking one day. Front what Ive read about Truss', for a 4x4 application, the stress is up and down. where as a pro street car would put more stress in a rear-ward motion, the reason some trusses go over the front of the diff cover and onto the axle tubes.

Next will be the front.