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my garage needs air

for another $50 or so, you can get the equivalent Quincy...


I'm about fed up with my oilless and have been shopping upright oilled units myself...
 
Ditto on the oiless, mine blew a rod after about 10 years of occasional use.
 
mines about 12ish.. not complaining, obviously i've used the pee outta it over the years and it's been lucky to get the dust blown off it annually.... one of the best $400 i've ever spent...



it's just taking a bit longer to fill these days, doesn't sound as healthy and IS DRIVING ME NUTS SCREAMING IN MY EARHOLE ALL DAY!!!!!!
 
jpdrake said:
i was thinking of this 80gal 220v craftsman:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...-1&RTIFlag=1&storeUnitNum=0002323#reviewsWrap

anyone running that one? im gonna be using it for soda/sand blasting, painting, plasma cutter, common air tools. then i was going to hook it up with a garage pack system.
http://www.garage-pak.com/index.html

any thoughts or suggestions?
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You need ALOT of compressor for blasting. You need to find the highest SCFM @ 90psi that you can. I would suggest that you be looking for something along the lines of at leat 18 SCFM @ 90 psi if you don't want to blast a second then wait 10 minutes for the tank to fill and so on. Trust me on this one, a blaster probably uses the most amount of air with an air grinder coming in next.
 
240v 5.4hp 175 psi max 89dAB 13.3scfm@100psi, 12.8scfm@175psi for $1000
is it enough? ive had the craftsman oilless theyre crap. i wanna buy one that will last.
what brand makes a good 80gal that would be about 18scfm?
 
jpdrake said:
240v 5.4hp 175 psi max 89dAB 13.3scfm@100psi, 12.8scfm@175psi for $1000
is it enough? ive had the craftsman oilless theyre crap. i wanna buy one that will last.
what brand makes a good 80gal that would be about 18scfm?
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Here is a good deal on an excellent compressor. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_211720_211720

Here is another that will knock your socks off. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200365172_200365172
 
that IR is exactly what I'm looking for... too bad i'm beyond broke right now... :doah:
 
Campbell Hausfeld Electric Stationary Air Compressor — 7.5 HP, 26.5 CFM @ 90 PSI, 80-Gallon, 230 Volt

that one looks good, i guess you get what you pay for. $1800
 
eh, i still have trouble trusting Cambell Hausfeld, I remember when they came out and where chit... that may be different these days... I trust IR....
 
I would seriously look around on CL and eBay before I dropped that kind of change. I bought my compressor for under $100 (no not a typo, and that was delivered!) off of eBay and after some fresh wire and having the motor rebuilt (I ran it as it was for about a year until my dog pulled the cover off in the rain and fried it) it runs like a champ.
So I have about $250 into the whole thing and it keeps up with anything I can throw at it.

Maybe find a shop that's closing up that has a nice setup they'd like to get rid of.

Here's a picture from when I was cleaning it up. I've ran it regularly for over two years now without any issues. Oh and after this one I'll never buy an oil-less compressor again, this thing is quiet!
picture001.jpg
 
ryoken said:
eh, i still have trouble trusting Cambell Hausfeld, I remember when they came out and where chit... that may be different these days... I trust IR....
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Campbell Hausfeld compressors have been good for at least 25 years or more. The quality is about the same as an IR compressor.
 
eh, i remember some cheezy sh*t from them in the 80's..
 
Well FWIW i own a Husky (Campbell Hausfeld) and have several friends that also own a CH and none have gave any problems at all. I've had mine now for about 3-4 years or so.
 
like i said, 80's.. glad to hear they shaped up...
 
CHAMPTXTRIP004.jpg
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I bought this one on ebay for $99 5 hp/ 3 phase
 
m4 said:
CHAMPTXTRIP004.jpg
://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee137/3CL1/CHAMP2.jpg[/IMG]



I bought this one on ebay for $99 5 hp/ 3 phase
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I hope you either had 3 phase at your house or you bought a new single phase motor for it.
 
I built a rotary phase converter. I run an IR compressor with 2- 3hp/3 phase motors in my shop. One down. I have 8 more waiting:D
 
compressors have been the bain of my existance lately.

Primary compressor died. That was a good sized compressor (28cfm@90psi) that worked hard for 5 years straight and finally gave up the ghost. Switched over to our back up (got bit by the 3phase wire during this process) which ran for a couple days and then quit. Still not sure what's wrong with it. Quite a bit smaller but would keep up with most stuff in the shop. Then I swapped out the pump on the primary compressors air pump with one I had sitting around for a good long time and that one is currently running things for us. Still not big enough. If you're gona buy, buy big!

If your compressor is getting noisy, try replacing the intake filter. Always helps the shop compressors.
 
I'm in the same boat. There's a 60 gal Coleman Powermate on CL by me, guy is asking $350 but it's been reposted a few times (he started at $450) so I'd be willing to bet $300 cash would take it. Linky below

http://salestores.com/colemanp.html

Anyone have any experience with the Coleman compressors? Good? Bad? All I have to work with now is a cheap chinese 6 gal pancake so the only place i can go is up.:o

I don't know much about that garage-pak system but it looks cheesy to me. I've used plain old PVC in the past...figured schedule 80 is good to 200psi and it's cheap, however recent research would suggest against it.

Found a good snippet on the web:
Ah, the eternal PVC versus metal pipe debate. First of all, all PVC pipe manufacturers insist that their product not be used for compressed gasses. However, there is plastic pipe rated for compressed gas service in harsh (corrosive) environments. The price is much more that the most expensive metallic piping system.

The reason that PVC pipe is not to be used for compressed gasses is its tendency to fail explosively (high speed flying debris that can and has killed). That being said, black steel is used as it is cheapest of metallics. Its drawbacks are the fact that it corrodes on the inside. This scale ends up in your point of use filters or the finish of that project you have been working on. Copper (thick wall best choice) is the next in cost, and in my opinion the best choice, as it is easy to work with if you know how to sweat copper joints. Brazing or silver soldering for very high pressures. Most any threaded adaptors can be had and installed easily.

Galvanized is not worth mentioning due to cost, but it is a very good choice for corrosion resistance.
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And some more:
I am a professional, registered engineer and an avid woodworker.

1. The basic answer is: Copper pipe (or brass) is the best material to use in this environment. It is easy and cheap to install - much easier than black iron. All you need to know is how to silver-solder the pipe and fittings.

2. I've never heard of "Schedule 250" PVC pipe; beware of any such claims. It's not the thickness of the pipe; it's the adhesive or glue used in joining the pipe and fittings that represents the weakest joint. And this type of joint is impossible to predict or calculate.

3. Do not rely on so-called "galvanized" pipe. What is conventionally called galvanized pipe is merely galvanized coated (not "hot-dipped") externally. Hot-dipped is the only credible type of protection - and it is subject to visual and mechanical surface inspection. I have never heard nor seen any pipe hot-dipped internally; I can't imagine how anyone could inspect the pipe internally! And if it can't be inspected, it doesn't warrant any interest in any application.

4. Some of the best suggestions are given by previous contributors - such as:
a) Install a compressor aftercooler and water trap to remove the bulk of the condensed water in the compressor's discharge.
b) Install the product air piping always inclined or sloped in the direction of flow, with a copper trap & drain at the lowest points.
c) If possible, use a refrigerated dryer or adsorber type - this is the absolute best way to condition your air supply. The adsorber type is the best and the recommended type if you're really looking for quality air for fine work.
d) Always drain your water traps on a frequent schedule or simply install automatic float drainers which can be bought and installed for less than $200.

Doing your installation with copper pipe is much safer and gives you a constant, reliable system that has mechanical integrity. This is what is needed to maintain a woodworking shop in a congenial and enjoyable state. We certainly don't want to introduce safety issues or hazards.
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