readymix
3/4 ton status
Here is a diagram I made for the gauge and wiring. http://coloradok5.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=55085&d=1191174906
CK5
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My gas gauge reads E New Problem
- Thread starter sandawgk5
- Start date
If it's TBI, (which it sounds like) there will be a connector easily accessible for the sender.
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
Thanks guys, I don't have the K5 at this house once I get it over here I will look for some connectors and shorted wires. I am leaning to a short because, when I turn the key to "ON" the gauge goes below E like the tank is empty. Turn the key "OFF" and it goes back up to the normal un-powered spot.
Dik
Dik
Pretty likely IMO. Wiring problems usually seem to be isolated to the tank area, as long as the wiring elsewhere hasn't been monkeyed with, otherwise all bets are off.
I'd not drop the tank until I'd tested the sender wire for short to ground *forward* of the tank though, and after a good visual inspection of all wiring you can easily get your hands and/or eyes on. Just a lot easier than dropping the tank, especially if the problem doesn't end up being there. Likely it is in/around the tank, but nothing is for certain.
I'd not drop the tank until I'd tested the sender wire for short to ground *forward* of the tank though, and after a good visual inspection of all wiring you can easily get your hands and/or eyes on. Just a lot easier than dropping the tank, especially if the problem doesn't end up being there. Likely it is in/around the tank, but nothing is for certain.
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
Well I took a load of **** from one garage to the other and my gas gauge was randomly working. I did notice that my alt was up around 16V on the meter.
The new problem is after I unloaded I got in to take it back to the other house and it has no power as in ZERO electricity. I think it is a ground issue but no way 2 deep cycles went that dead in 15 min. I smell no hot wires nothing.
It is dark outside so I cannot see anything to do any troubleshooting, kinda looking for places to start in the am. I def will put a multi-meter on the batteries to see what they have in them and I will check my cables. I will also check the fusible links.
Could the voltage regulator be going out and kill a fusible link? This **** happened at the wrong time. I got called back to work and I am underway 1 wk from Sunday.
Help me CK5 get this **** fixeded.
Dik
The new problem is after I unloaded I got in to take it back to the other house and it has no power as in ZERO electricity. I think it is a ground issue but no way 2 deep cycles went that dead in 15 min. I smell no hot wires nothing.
It is dark outside so I cannot see anything to do any troubleshooting, kinda looking for places to start in the am. I def will put a multi-meter on the batteries to see what they have in them and I will check my cables. I will also check the fusible links.
Could the voltage regulator be going out and kill a fusible link? This **** happened at the wrong time. I got called back to work and I am underway 1 wk from Sunday.
Help me CK5 get this **** fixeded.
Dik
readymix
3/4 ton status
If I lived out there already I'd be there in the morning, but I am stuck here in Pascagoula putting permatex on my manifold.
I would unhook the batteries now if you think it could be a ground issue.
I would unhook the batteries now if you think it could be a ground issue.
For something to happen that quick it has to be a bad fusible link. Check the one down near the starter and also the one at the junction block on the firewall.
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
Ya will do on the fusible links, I just can't see right now.
The batteries are "unhooked" with the marine switch in the off position. I appreciate the offer Brian, it might still be down by the time you get back out here. With me leaving it really makes time constraints ****ty. I know you are kinda in the same boat with your getting underway.
I have been having hot start issues I wonder if the fusible link by the starter may have burned
.If it is a bad fusible link can I replace it with a bladed fuse holder of the same amperage?
Dik
Not recommended as those blade fuse holders like to melt. Easy enough to just replace the fusible link with a new fusible link wire of the proper size. Just make sure to solder and shrink tube the splices real good.
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
I think I am an idiot
.
I still need to figure the gas gauge thing out since electrical things don't just fix themselves. But the truck runs again and the gauge is currently reading correctly.
I checked all fusible links and they are fine. I forgot that I moved the one by the starter up on the firewall when I installed a remote solenoid. This should also prevent the "hot start" issue I have been experiencing. So that leads me to the idiot part.
I don't think I ever properly tightened the wing nuts on the battery cables inside my box to connect the cables to the batteries. One of the negative cables lugs was blackened like it had arched so I inspected and tightened all of them carefully with a wrench. I also checked my lugs underneath the hood. Since I did not really "fix" anything I decided to try it and see. It had no power, but then again I forgot to turn the batteries on, so I tried again and it turned over faster than I have ever seen before.
I am certain I never properly tightened any of the cables that connected the batteries together and that was causing all of my starting issues. It really is a rookie mistake that should not have happened.
It fired right up and idles smoother than it has, it used to have a surge. Also the voltage meter was right around 14 not up by the line like it was last night. I am thinking the poor cable connections drove resistance up and made the alt work harder and the subsequent ****ty dual battery starts.
Dik
.I still need to figure the gas gauge thing out since electrical things don't just fix themselves. But the truck runs again and the gauge is currently reading correctly.
I checked all fusible links and they are fine. I forgot that I moved the one by the starter up on the firewall when I installed a remote solenoid. This should also prevent the "hot start" issue I have been experiencing. So that leads me to the idiot part.
I don't think I ever properly tightened the wing nuts on the battery cables inside my box to connect the cables to the batteries. One of the negative cables lugs was blackened like it had arched so I inspected and tightened all of them carefully with a wrench. I also checked my lugs underneath the hood. Since I did not really "fix" anything I decided to try it and see. It had no power, but then again I forgot to turn the batteries on, so I tried again and it turned over faster than I have ever seen before.
I am certain I never properly tightened any of the cables that connected the batteries together and that was causing all of my starting issues. It really is a rookie mistake that should not have happened.
It fired right up and idles smoother than it has, it used to have a surge. Also the voltage meter was right around 14 not up by the line like it was last night. I am thinking the poor cable connections drove resistance up and made the alt work harder and the subsequent ****ty dual battery starts.
Dik
Sounds feasible to me. Dirty or loose connections will play hell with you.
Slapperbar
Retired Navy NDT Examiner
Glad you got it fixed.
-... -
Please tell me you're not an E rate.
-... -
Please tell me you're not an E rate.
